Let me get this straight!

The new oil pump now has a line coming from it off of its bilet plate "D".

The filter bilet cover, covers where the old filter went. A & B ?

Where does the line from the new oil pump cover return to????

This is the original way oil lines were plumbed.

the fitting that is tapped into the oil gallery ?

at least that's where it went on the T-I's when we did this mod ...

T-IV's i donno zackly...

I am trying to remote both the cooler and the filter.

So the line coming off the pump will go through "in series" the filter(s) then the cooler, then back where???

Please God, this is simple right???

Rich, There are 5 galley plugs that have to be tapped. Right?

Which one would I return to.???

There are three galley plugs that need to be tapped and plugged behind the flywheel.
There are two ajacent to the old filter mount. Looks to me it would be easier to just plug those too. And get some sort of a bilet fiting to return the oil to where the filter was.

Where are you mounting your cooler Joe?

Ben, I am not sure yet. Thinking a remote fan/coil somewhere/anywhere or just a coil in flow through scoops on the side of the car???? How you doing?

Doing good.

I have been contemplating mounting a cooler at an angle, next to the trans with an electric fan. I know this is a big topic of debate, but it seems like a possible solution for more cooling when the car is just a driver, not a racer.

in the T-I's we'd plug the 'normal return from the pump into the case then use some sort of output in the cover to route the oil through the "effects loop" (the musicians will understand this analogy ...). the cooled / filtered / whatevered oil was then returned to the oil gallery via a fitting drilled and tapped at about the 10 o'clock position relative to the oil pump.

those cases had a cooler, for which blockoff (loop-over) plates are available, and used to be a good place to mount an oil temp sender. they had no filter, of course...

for T-IV's - i just don't know - i'm trying to be helpful and failing miserably....

you plugged the 'normal' oil outlet from the pump to the case, yes ?

You know some 914 had defectors on the bottom of the car that forced more air to be turbulent underneath. Thinking also putting a scoop down there through duct to a cooler???

QUOTE

You know some 914 had defectors on the bottom of the car that forced more air to be turbulent underneath.

I know, mine does!

Somebody on this board has fab'd a duct to route air through a cooler mounted underneath. Ferg's car (2.7 soon to be 3.2) has (had) a cooler mounted under the car, at an angle, on the passenger side. Nice fab job. Worth checking out.

I am going to put a numbered oil temp gauge in next weekend with a CORRECT sender and see if I really do need the cooler (you can't tell much when your gauge is pegging at 230) for Moab.

I play the stereo! And I have for years.

I haven't done anything except buy Jakes Full flow kit. It has a screaming Schadek 30mm Rabized pump, cam gear, pump bilet with a fitting coming off it and a bilet cap to cap off the filter mount.

Ben, If you find that thread send it to me huh. Maybe if Ferg is doing something different I could purchase it from him.

Looks like Im following his footsteps. Except mine will be a 2.3.

It seems to me that, if you are "remoting" the filter and cooler, and you want to maintain the stock functionality, that you want the connections to be exactly the same as they are now. Just with lots of hose making the connection instead of short passages through the crankcase.

D would go to H; G to C; F to B; and A to E.

If you want to change the stock functionality, then you need to re-arrange things somewhat.

--DD

does this help?

QUOTE (Teknon @ Mar 18 2005, 04:07 PM)

I haven't done anything except buy Jakes Full flow kit. It has a screaming Schadek 30mm Rabized pump, cam gear, pump bilet with a fitting coming off it and a bilet cap to cap off the filter mount.

and no instructions ?

contact Jake and get the instructions !
(otherwise, you didn't get a 'kit' - you got a box of parts.)

I have been working on the instructions for this kit, but trying to put it in writing clearly isn't simple....

Thats why every one of those"Kits" has a note stating to contact me for verbal instructions to make sure its fully understood..... (When the parts are in hand email me and I'll call you)

That oil system diagram won't do you any good on this one....

The pic that Synthesis posted will, because he has my engine and that very system...

Writing instructions for all the kits I offer is taing a long while... I am going to end up posting ALL them to the net to make it easier to get color pics with them.. Until then we'll have to keep doing it verbally and making sure its clear.

QUOTE (synthesisdv @ Mar 18 2005, 04:28 PM)

does this help?

That would be what I need. Thank you for posting. Joe

QUOTE (synthesisdv @ Mar 18 2005, 05:28 PM)

does this help?

i can't tell -- are you still using the factory cooler in that picture?

i got the impression Joe was trying to use a remote cooler instead of the factory cooler. is there a block-off plate for T-IV's like there used to be for the T-I's ?

QUOTE (ArtechnikA @ Mar 19 2005, 08:30 AM)

i can't tell -- are you still using the factory cooler in that picture?

I do still run the factory cooler, actually I'm replacing it right now. Don't think it would look and different without the cooler accept there would be a blockoff plate there.

I wasn't going to run the cooler on the motor since I have external coolers (in parallel now) but Jake said to keep it, so I did.

David (synthesisdv) also uses one of my modified engine mounts, that has to be used in order to clear the hose...even then it's still a tight fit.
You may have to grind the top of the rubber mount (arrow) stud.

The two larger oil galley plugs (on the front or nose under dizzy) the top one is the one you tap for 3/8NPT, for the oil return.

David (synthesisdv) also uses one of my modified engine mounts, that has to be used in order to clear the hose...even then it's still a tight fit.
You may have to grind the top of the rubber mount (arrow) stud.

The two larger oil galley plugs (on the front or nose under dizzy) the top one is the one you tap for 3/8NPT, for the oil return.

That area seems prone to a critical leak. I do not understand why the cooler should be used. Since everyone says the cylinders run so much hotter on that side anyway. Cooling being an issue. WHY leave in the HOT oil cooler to preheat the cooling air.

Couldn’t I just remove the stock cooler leaving that area capped off? And return the cooled oil there????????????

QUOTE (Teknon @ Mar 19 2005, 02:18 PM)

WHY leave in the HOT oil cooler to preheat the cooling air. Couldn’t I just remove the stock cooler leaving that area capped off? And return the cooled oil there????????????

not sure where you got the idea the oil cooler preheats the cooling air...

fresh, fan driven air is ducted (through the thermostat flaps) to the cooler; heated air is exhausted under the car on the hot side.

theoretically, you can return the oil to just about anywhere in the oil gallery, but the oil cooler is on the outlet side of the pressure control thermostat valve; it's desirable to keep that in the circuit.