Everything was going just great. I was slowly lowering the engine by raising the lift, stopping frequently to check. Getting ready to celebrate when ... Oh crud!

t least on my lift (4-post) the space between the two sides that the wheels normally sit on are too narrow to let the engine support bar drop down through. Even the sheet metal might be a bit too wide. (See pic)


Took me quite a while to come up with a solve. Too late to finish yesterday. Essentially had to jack back of car up even up even higher. I will then lower engine onto cart with engine crossbar and tin sitting above the ramps, then roll cart back as far as you can and transfer it to a second cart over the lift's crossbar.

The lift certainly made things much easier up until that point. Perhaps someone else has done this with a 4-post lift and has a simpler solution.

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In reality I would support the engine and trans, and unbolt the mount bar form the engine 2- 10 mm bolts. Extra step, pain in the, but solves your problem.

I had the same problem with my 4 post lift trying to drop a -6 engine. It looks like we both bought the same hydraulic table as an intermediate resting place. With the -6 I had to take off the sheet metal to then get the engine between.

I'd just unbolt the bar from the engine and see if it would fit that way.

--DD

Yes, the harbor freight lift table works well once you get the darn thing bled and working initially. I do wish handle folded back and out of the way.

Anyhow, by raising car I was able to lower it onto moving dolly and slide it back to rear of lift. As noted, bar was main issue but also the tin. Anyway, see latest pic. Next I will slide it back off of dolly onto the lift table. Then I get to seperate tranny.

I guess I am no longer a 914 virgin. I won't be a 914 stud until everything is reinstalled.

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Classic problem. I move my lift wider just about every winter for engine drop,
and put it back to normal for driving on. It takes about 15 minutes once modded.

simple 4-post lift modification (widening)

That is a clever mod that I never considered. At the same time, when I put the lift in the garage it took four big people to move those long ramps and I hope to never have to move them again. For someone who does a lot of engine drops it would be a good way to go.

Those guys must have been pussies. The rail that doesn't have the hydraulics
in it is reasonable to push left and right by yourself. (I've never bothered to turn it
right side around again). When I got mine, 2 of us moved and set up everything.
Myself an average size 35ish guy, and a fairly in-shape 60ish guy.

Don't get mark mad, he goes all hulk and thing can get messy

I have two of the rolling bridge jacks on my 4-post so the lips are essential for those. I was able to use one of the rolling bridge jacks to raise the rear of vehicle at the jacking points. One nice things is that they have lock stops so they act as both a jack and jack-stand (although I still use extra jack-stands).

My BendPak 4 post lift has a wide position and a narrow position. When I built it I put it on the wide position and have never had to change it. Works for all of my cars including the 914 and there's plenty of room to drop the engine.

I needed a little bit of twist to get mine out using a wide 4-post bendpack. Mad for a couple seconds then just spun my wheeled table the engine/trans was on. Should be no issues when the /6 goes it, since it doesn't have that super-wide bar.

If I have to tackle this again in the future, it might be an excuse to add a 2-post lift to the garage!

Two nuts takes off the engine bar from underneath...

The tin attached to the engine is still pretty wide compared to the ramp
spacing on most of these lifts. Just taking off the bar isn't going to be enough.

As noted, it was not that big a deal to lower it onto moving cart with a few pieces of wood on the cart for extra height. I then rolled it to rear of lift.

It is kind of heavy with the tranny attached (at least for us wimpy guys).

Since the trans slid mostly past the end of the ramp, I decided to seperate the tranny just as it sat. The crossbar resting on the lift ramps, moving cart under engine, I positioned another floor Jack under tranny. Once pulled apart (pretty easy) I could then lift the tranny out of the way and likewise the engine over the rear of lift and onto cart.

When I go to reinstall I will probably do the reverse in that I will position lift cart under the lift and maneuver engine / trans onto it. Will be a little while before I get to that point. Need to get engine compartment all cleaned up, engine tin redone, clean the filthy trans case, etc.

This all started because I decided to do the CV's and then just kept going. And yes, even if I had removed engine bar, the tin was slightly wider.

I've borrowed fergs 4 post lift with moveable ramps that could be widened to clear the motor bar...

I've also borrowed gints 4 post a couple of times with a neat 4x4 trick we tried...
we rolled the car back and hung the tail off of the lift... so that the motor would clear the ramps behind the lift.. (wheels on timbers)

hard to describe, but easy and safe to do
a picture would explain it
maybe mike will have one

I love my 2 post lift for just the reason
dropping the motor is a 1 man job and quick

I had it out last week
left the tranny and full exhaust (including motor, and all heater tin-work) installed for a quick drop and bolt back

That would certainly work so long as you have enough space in your garage to allow the rear of car to overhang.

As noted, once on dolly I let tranny overhang and separated that. Was getting ready to lift the engine over the bar when I had an aha moment. With the trans off, I could spin the dolly and then, with bar pointing front to rear, raise the lift right over it and roll the cart out. From there I moved engine to lift table and am now pulling things apart.

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