Now that my 914 has finally arrived in the UK, I'll soon be able to start working through the car and finding all the little jobs (hopefully not too many big ones) that need doing.

I've owned early 911s for long enough to know my way around those OK.
914s are new to me though, so I am going to have lots of dumbass questions.
Rather than drip feed them into the forum as lots of separate threads, I'll start this one up and post my dummies questions all in one place.

Disclaimer: The car lives in a garage 1/2 mile from my house. This means that I can't just pop outside and look at the car (and work some stuff out myself), hence why some of my questions may seem even more dumbass...

So then, QUESTION 1:

I need to remove the US number plate mounting brackets.

From memory I believe they are held on with two bolts each?
If I just unscrew the bolts, where are the retaining nuts? On the inside of the bumper?

If so, will the nuts just fall out onto the garage floor?
Or will they sit loose somewhere inside there, rattling away, until I decide to remove the whole bumper and fish them out?

(See, told you the questions will start pretty simple!)

QUESTION 2:

I need to replace the seat belts. The retractor reels are too far gone to pass the UK MOT test.

I got lucky already! A generous ddk member in the UK has sent me his old ones, which he replaced with harnesses.

By the power of forum search, I already know I need to remove the seats (and in doing so the first time, probably remove a finger tip by accident!), take out the backpad by removing the 4 screws and lifting and pulling. But then what...

Does anyone have clear pics of the firewall and the mount points for the belts?

My car is a 1974 build, so you get bonus points if you can show correct firewall / mounts for that year ;-)

You can say "bloody hell" on this forum anytime you like and we (us yanks) won't care!

I currently have a 1973 2.0 that's a tub right now and can send you a picture in an email only because for some reason I cannot post pictures here. I have to figure that one out before too long. Just PM me with an email if no one posts one.

Steve

Depending on how obvious the answers to some of my questions turn out to be, I may be saying that a lot to myself

I recall there being clips that pop into the front bumper that the license plate holder is screwed into. The euro plate holder should mount to the same clips so you don't have to worry just undo the screws, clips will be fine.

The seat belts, I believe it's just 1 bolt holding each in - if you look in the engine compartment like right above the relay board you should be able to see the square weld nut with the end of the bolt in it. It will be really clear how to get them off with the back pad out.

There is a euro version of the plate holder?



Tried looking from engine bay side when I was last with the car.
Still have the sound deadening mat bonded in, so couldn't see that.
(Yes I am considering removing the pad hear it is a rust factory)

Are you allowed to just drill 2 new holes in your UK plate if the plate holder holes don't line up correctly? As mentioned, there should be 2 captured nuts that press into the bumper. Are they there or did the PO just use bolts, washers and nuts?

Bumpers have capture nuts. They are easy to source if yours are gone. There is a Euro plate set up that indexes into those nuts.

The back pad behind the seats actually slides DOWN after you remove the four phillips retaining screws.

The seat belts are all held in with 17mm bolts. Make sure you put everything back together the way it came apart, as the hoops, loops, and floor bolts all pivot on nylon spacers that let everything stay tight but still rotate. The stock seat belts weren't all that great, even when they were brand new.

While you have everything apart, it is a good time to do a thorough cleaning and assessment of what you have and what you need to deal with.

Ask as many dumb questions as you like, we all were wankers at one point too!!

You are required to post pictures, we Americans are simple people and like pictures rather than words...=)

I think the correct term is Yanks.

The reason I mentioned that is because I have many Brit friends since owning classic Minis and LoCorts with a few other Brit cars in the mix. I learned early on with one Brit car forum I said the word and I was almost banned from it. All my buddy's that were Brits say that it's a bad word.
We won't be offended because to us we don't know Brit speak here.

I think there is a euro version, no one is really sure actually Here's the thread with some info:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry1478420

As long as you don't call us 'tossers' just about anything else is ok.

A couple of things:

The back-pad goes DOWN when you remove it, if you pull it up you might tear the metal brackets out of the back of the wood fiber pad! So the bottom of the pad goes forward and then the whole thing slides down. You'll have to remove the engine lid pull knob and the "escutcheon" around it. (Both unscrew.)

The bolts for the seatbelts are in inch sizes. At the very least the ones for the top loop, the receiver, and the end of the belt are. I think the one for the retractor might be as well, but I'm less certain of that. The threads are US-spec due to our DOT laws, I think.

--DD

All the seat belt bolts are SAE 7/16 -20.

Thanks All for the response so far.
I am taking the car for MOT test tomorrow. It is bound to fail on the seatbelts alone, but I don't care because:
a) I am legally allowed to drive the car on the UK road (for the first time since purchase), if I am on my (roundabout) way to a pre-booked MOT.
b) If you fail an MOT test, your next one is free of charge if you go to the same MOT test centre
So I get to finally drive the car, and the first test will let me know ALL MOT fail issues that I need to fix before my free re-test.

Thanks to the response so far, I know how to switch out the belts, and have half an idea how to remove the US plate holders for when I finally get to register the car and attach plates.

BLOODY HELL, this is going well so far, thanks YANKS!

So, trying to out-do myself in 'dummy-ness" of dummies questions, here is...

QUESTION 3:

- How do I reset the trip meter?

In the 911 dash the reset knob is mounted on the underside of the dash, under the speedo. I could not find similar in my 914...

The reset knob is there you just have to look all around.....if not, it was taken off but they're available. I have a spare if you need it. Good luck on your MOT I know they can be real anal but you'll get through it. Report back with the results.

Dumber question ;
Did They used that crane to lift and drop the car over the fence ?

Someone may have removed your reset cable,if you find it remember not to reset when the car is moving,its breaks the drive gears so I'am told.
I understand the UK MOT is like our New Zealand WOF (warrant of fitness) ...tough on older cars mainly but comprehensive on all ,you have to have insurance to drive a car on the road also?.
I understand you pay tax to ran a car on the road also ? ours is payed as a direct tax on fuel (petrol) and for diesel cars we pay per 1000 kilometers.
Our fuel is very cheap by world standards,diesel is cheaper than petrol @ around 99cents/litre currently.

Good luck with your MOT.

Although it is not yet road registered, I am insured on the VIN, and can drive it without plates for an MOT.

MOT is pretty comprehensive. You have to score 100% to pass.

No tax to pay. All cars built 40 or more years ago are tax exempt, "Historic Vehicle" class.

Very expensive fuel in the UK, but we're used to it.

A cable comes off the back of the speedo and goes down to the bottom of the dash. You turn the knob on the end of the cable to reset the trip meter. Often the knob part is missing, but the cable end can still be turned.

--DD

Up nice and early this morning... MOT day!

Which leads to (not so) dummy QUESTION 4:

- On how many points will the car fail its first MOT test?



I had booked the car in, knowing that the seat belts were a likely fail: passenger side inertia reel is no good, and to see what other things might need doing, and that I had not considered.
14 days to sort those out, and come back and get a re-test.

More to the point, it meant I got to drive the thing for the first time. Just 4 or 5 miles there and back, but enough for starters.
The car started right up, and was happy from the off.

A fun - noisy! - squirt the long way around the park and then the keys went to Vinnie, my friendly MOT guy - 27 years old and saving up for a Chesil speedster.



Did I say I expected the car to fail? Well it only went and passed :bounce:

Vinnie's seeing eye gave one advisory (rear lights dim a bit in time with the indicators).
And his blind eye missed the non functioning (hopefully empty) washer jets/pump, and the aforementioned passenger seatbelt...

Now I need to complete the faffing DVLA documents, wait for the reg to come through, and I can finally take the boy for his first ride... He's keen!

And, do not reset the odometer while the car is moving! This will cause a (repairable) failure of the odometer.

James, hope the car is everything you thought it would be? Relieved the MOT went well.

Guess you already did the headlight swap, taillight mods, etc. Glad you have decided to drive it for a bit before you consider putting flares on it. Lots of passion on this forum around "to flare, or not to flare". Bet you get lots of free advice.

I suppose I should update my avatar since you own that exact car now...

Wohoo! Congratulations! I hope I'll pass as easy too when it comes to that point in the not too far future!
Enjoy the ride!

Dummies QUESTION FIVE:

- What is the proper name for the boot / sleeve that covers and protects the suspension join here?

I am fast filling a shopping cart at 914rubber.com, and am hoping I can include a pair of these at checkout...

I'm not sure if those exist without the ball joint.

The ball joint boots were not available separately

But there was a ball joint boot available for the late 80's Audi 5000/100 that can be use.
I don't know if they are still available though.

Most people just replace the ball joint.

Jim

Thanks Jim: At (I think) $50 a side, probably the way to go

There are a couple of different ball joint versions pertaining to the bottom bolt. Make sure you order the correct ones.

So the good news is that my car is now fully road registered for the UK



I have had the reg number on retention for a few years, and it was nice to finally get it on a car and complete the 'set' (my 911 is on UHR 23E, and my wife's Audi Quattro is HER 23E).



Now starts the real fun, as I get to drive the car and compile a snag list of all the jobs that need doing.
The PO had hardly driven the car for the past 2 years and - although the car is in fantastic condition throughout - this means there will be a list of jobs that need doing, little things have stopped working through lack of use.

To start with... The battery is as flat as a pancake.
I had hoped that this was just from the car being sat in transport / waiting for registration for the past 5 or 6 months, and it just needed a good charge.
It happily started with the aid of some jump leads, and the alternator light on the dash went off. So far so good, I drove the car for an hour or so.
But after I parked up to get a coffee, the battery still did not even have enough charge to turn the engine even once.

I figure it's either a dead battery (easy fix), or there's an issue wit the alternator (not so easy). How about another quesion...

Dummies QUESTION SIX:
- What batteries are people using in their cars?

I have always used Bosch Silver batteries in my 911s, and have been very happy:
- Are there certain size or other restrictions I need to consider before I go buy a new battery?

Thanks all!

Light bump for dummies QUESTION SIX above

Charge the battery with a full over night charge. Then try to start. If it starts you are good, if not replace the battery.

Type is up to you. A lot of people use the sealed batteries so they don't have to worry about the acid, when it rains, was getting into the hell hole. I just don't drive mine in the rain or get water on the hell hole!

Agree with you on the sealed Bosch battery and use them on the 911. When I had to replace the -4 battery I got mine from Costco Watford (lowest cost I could find - like £20 cheaper)

Not sure if the old battery was undersized or not but after some measuring I managed to get a physically longer and higher ampere rated one on the battery tray for more oomph. No issues starting after the replacement

Unfortunately I can't tell you what the Bosch part number was as I've sold the car

Jon

It's been a while, I've been enjoying actually driving the car at last. That said, still not many miles yet, as it's still crappy winter weather in UK.

Answer to Question 6 above was: "063". As in "The correct sized Bosch battery for a 914 is an 063".
I invested in a Bosch S4 sealed battery, and now long gone are my zero charge woes!


Anyway it's high time I added to my list... Dummies QUESTION SEVEN:

- What's the easiest way of popping open a stuck engine cover?

My car has a GT style double grill cover, and opened fine until this weekend.
But now yanking on the cable seems to only part open the lock mechanism.
The actuator cable moves freely enough, so I'm hoping the cable just needs an adjustment to give it more "pull" travel.
Need to get the darned thing open to be able to try that though!

I looked here: Someone else got stuck
But only gleaned from there that it's possible to pop the mechanism if you open the rear trunk and do something with a screwdriver(?)

Any more specific pointers?

It's been a while, but here is Dummies QUESTION EIGHT:

I have a nicely weathered Momo Prototipo that I want to fit to my 74 car.

Am I right in assuming that the boss that I used previously to fit the wheel to my 911 is no good for the 914?

If so, is this what I need?

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/momo-s...CFWoz0wodURkPlQ