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Belgianmarc
Living in Belgium, preparing my beauty for next season.

I'm working on my '74 2,0 with stock FI system. What else do you do in wintertime ? piratenanner.gif
I've just changed my distributor with a complete 1,2,3 ignition system. I want to get rid of those contact-points and have a good solid ignition system.
Does anyone has experience with this setup ?
Folowing the manual that comes with the ignition, I have to put the curve to "2" . This means that the max advance is 22° at 2700 rpm. This is what i did. If i tune-in the timing with my strobo, on the original timingmark, the engine is running; yes thats all to say. It's not Wauww... I think it runs even better when i put away the strobo and just use my ears to do the job. WTF.gif
Maybe another curve will be better ?
Any suggestions from you guys?

Kind regards,
r_towle
Which distributor do you have?
It looks like there are two possible settings, so refer to the manual, and your old part number on the distributor.
Also, check pbanders d-jet site to ensure your "original" distributor is the correct part number, that may have been changed at some point.

At the end of the day, there seems to be two settings, use the other setting and see what it runs like.
Looks like 800 or 1000 are the two possible start settings.

For the manual version there are 22 possible advance curves.
For the programmable one the options are endless.

Rich
Mblizzard
Doing the same with mine! Remember that the 22 degres is just what the dizzy will impart based on rpm. With your strobe you set that 22 to land on the stock timing which is 27 I think on the impeller.

I am going with the "B" curve on the 123.
Belgianmarc
QUOTE(Mblizzard @ Jan 30 2016, 04:37 PM) *

Doing the same with mine! Remember that the 22 degres is just what the dizzy will impart based on rpm. With your strobe you set that 22 to land on the stock timing which is 27 I think on the impeller.

I am going with the "B" curve on the 123.


Thx for the input guys, I'm going to try the B or C curve on it. Just asking: do I have to time on the original mark (27°) or do I have to put a new marker on a 22°point ?
Mblizzard
QUOTE(Belgianmarc @ Jan 31 2016, 10:30 PM) *

QUOTE(Mblizzard @ Jan 30 2016, 04:37 PM) *

Doing the same with mine! Remember that the 22 degres is just what the dizzy will impart based on rpm. With your strobe you set that 22 to land on the stock timing which is 27 I think on the impeller.

I am going with the "B" curve on the 123.


Thx for the input guys, I'm going to try the B or C curve on it. Just asking: do I have to time on the original mark (27°) or do I have to put a new marker on a 22°point ?


You should time it to the original 27 mark. The amount of advance in the 123 should be pretty close to stock. In the 123 it is electronicly controlled
McMark
Dropping from 27° back to 22° will definitely lose power. There are three 'factors' to the advance curve. It starts at a lowest point (idle advance), continues at some rate (advance per rpm), and then finishes at some max advance. But only the curve itself is locked into the unit's brain. I doesn't know when true TDC is, so it doesn't know where true 22° is either. It relies on you to twist the distributor and double check that when it's trying to give you 22°, you actually get 22°. Then you know your distributor is calibrated.

But here's where it gets tricky and a bit confusing. You can set the unit 'wrong' to make it do what you want. If the curve you selected maxes out at 22°, and you set it to 27° instead, you've moved every part of the advance curve up 5°, so the idle advance will be 5° high as well as everything in between.
Mblizzard
QUOTE(McMark @ Feb 1 2016, 05:47 AM) *

Dropping from 27° back to 22° will definitely lose power. There are three 'factors' to the advance curve. It starts at a lowest point (idle advance), continues at some rate (advance per rpm), and then finishes at some max advance. But only the curve itself is locked into the unit's brain. I doesn't know when true TDC is, so it doesn't know where true 22° is either. It relies on you to twist the distributor and double check that when it's trying to give you 22°, you actually get 22°. Then you know your distributor is calibrated.

But here's where it gets tricky and a bit confusing. You can set the unit 'wrong' to make it do what you want. If the curve you selected maxes out at 22°, and you set it to 27° instead, you've moved every part of the advance curve up 5°, so the idle advance will be 5° high as well as everything in between.


If I read the chart below correctly, the advance does not kick in until 1000 rpm. So I took this to indicate that no advance would be present at idle of 900 RPM.

Based on the installation instructions, it seems like they do go through a process that allows the dizzy to know where TDC is located.

Click to view attachment
McMark
QUOTE(Mblizzard @ Feb 1 2016, 09:00 AM) *

If I read the chart below correctly, the advance does not kick in until 1000 rpm. So I took this to indicate that no advance would be present at idle of 900 RPM.

This is where terminology gets a bit tricky. There is no advance added by the distributor, but that doesn't necessarily mean that it's firing at 0°. In fact it SHOULDN'T fire at 0°. Stock is 12°, IIRC.

QUOTE(Mblizzard @ Feb 1 2016, 09:00 AM) *
Based on the installation instructions, it seems like they do go through a process that allows the dizzy to know where TDC is located.

They go through a process to calibrate the distributor so 0° = 0°. But the distributor doesn't know where TRUE/mechanical TDC is.
Mblizzard
Found this link that supposedly had the advance curves. I have no way to verify this information or its accuracy.

http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/123ign.html

Seems to be a few quirks in the data but it might be useful

Curve# Advance RPM
0 10 1000
12.5 1500
15 2000
16.6 2300
27 4200
27 4200

1 10 1000
13.5 1500
17 2000
18.9 2300
27 4200
27 3600

2 10 1000
14.5 1500
19 2000
21.4 2300
27 4200
27 3000

3 10 1000
15.5 1500
21 2000
25.5 2300
27 4200
27 2400

4 10 1000
13 1500
16 2000
17.7 2300
28.3 4200
30 4500

5 10 1000
14 1500
18 2000
19.4 2300
28.6 4200
30 4500

6 10 1000
15 1500
20 2000
21.2 2300
28.8 4200
30 4500

7 10 1000
16 1500
22 2000
23 2300
29 4200
30 4500

8 10 1000
13.5 1500
17 2000
18.9 2300
31.1 4200
33 4500

9 10 1000
14.5 1500
19 2000
20.7 2300
31.3 4200
33 4500

A 10 1000
15.5 1500
21 2000
22.4 2300
31.6 4200
33 4500

B 10 1000
16.5 1500
23 2000
24.2 2300
31.8 4200
33 4500

C 10 1000
14 1500
18 2000
20.2 2300
33.8 4200
36 4500

D 10 1000
15 1500
20 2000
21.9 2300
34.1 4200
36 4500

E 10 1000
16 1500
22 2000
23.7 2300
34.3 4200
36 4500

F 10 1000
17 1500
24 2000
25.4 2300
34.6 4200
36 4500
DRPHIL914
QUOTE(Mblizzard @ Feb 1 2016, 05:36 AM) *

QUOTE(Belgianmarc @ Jan 31 2016, 10:30 PM) *

QUOTE(Mblizzard @ Jan 30 2016, 04:37 PM) *

Doing the same with mine! Remember that the 22 degres is just what the dizzy will impart based on rpm. With your strobe you set that 22 to land on the stock timing which is 27 I think on the impeller.

I am going with the "B" curve on the 123.


Thx for the input guys, I'm going to try the B or C curve on it. Just asking: do I have to time on the original mark (27°) or do I have to put a new marker on a 22°point ?


You should time it to the original 27 mark. The amount of advance in the 123 should be pretty close to stock. In the 123 it is electronicly controlled

if i remember correctly you are running a d-jet set up on your car, which is a 2056? where did you buy the 123 distributor, and how do you like it?

Phil
Mblizzard
QUOTE(Philip W. @ Feb 2 2016, 05:24 AM) *

QUOTE(Mblizzard @ Feb 1 2016, 05:36 AM) *

QUOTE(Belgianmarc @ Jan 31 2016, 10:30 PM) *

QUOTE(Mblizzard @ Jan 30 2016, 04:37 PM) *

Doing the same with mine! Remember that the 22 degres is just what the dizzy will impart based on rpm. With your strobe you set that 22 to land on the stock timing which is 27 I think on the impeller.

I am going with the "B" curve on the 123.


Thx for the input guys, I'm going to try the B or C curve on it. Just asking: do I have to time on the original mark (27°) or do I have to put a new marker on a 22°point ?


You should time it to the original 27 mark. The amount of advance in the 123 should be pretty close to stock. In the 123 it is electronicly controlled

if i remember correctly you are running a d-jet set up on your car, which is a 2056? where did you buy the 123 distributor, and how do you like it?

Phil



Phil got it from http://www.123ignitionusa.com/.

Have not installed it yet. looking at what I may need to do to adjust the timing curve for the 2056 displacement. While a small change, I think there are potentially better curves out there that the stock 009 or 011.

Doing a bit of homework before the install.

Click to view attachment
Belgianmarc
Yesterday I pulled out my distributor again and changed it to the "B" curve. Did the static timing exactly and fired it up. I used my strobo to make sure the advance was correct at 27° and locked it. Then the vacuumhose on it and....She's running great guys ! Fast response on throttle just like I wanted to be. cheer.gif
Thx for all the great tips.

Have a save drive guys. beerchug.gif
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