My suggestion is to find a local place in an industrial park that will work with you. Our local place isn't pretty and my order isn't typical (they mostly do patio furniture and aluminum awnings). $275 got all this done and my 914-6 tank. Everything looked like crap on the way in.

Exactly! The place where I live will do the parts cheaper than I can rattle-can them. A few years back, they did a full tube frame for a Lotus 23, and 35 individual suspension, engine mount, etc. bits for $235. Their usual stuff is large cherry lugs for the local farm industry.

Local guy did 23 pieces for $100. Blasting and powder coating. Rattle can is dead to me!

Started in with them a couple years ago when I left the rowing erg in my workshop and it rusted up. I took it apart and had them blast the parts. Now it looks like new.

I haven't painted parts in about 10 years. Powder coating is the way to go IMHO. Faster, cheaper and the finish lasts a lot longer. . . That's a win, win, win!!

Do it right if you are going to do it. Powder coat is the way to go. I'm actually picking up more pieces today at my p/c shop.

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I've had some problems when the coating was applied to heavy and it changed the fit.

Nice! I have a Model C. Just started using it again after the move.

Any rec's for the Cinci area?

BTDT... all the time.

Biggest thing is to go light around the brake line and cable tabs on the suspension bits. those clips are a precision fit. The clips will not fit through the journals on the ends of the lines without taking the powder coating off now.

What bushings do you plan to use Mark?

Elephant

And stop being so serious mr shea

Mark,

Since they all mostly use the same PC color charts & materials, how was the color & finish match to the OE satin black used on your -6 parts as painted from the factory?

I had interior parts on my `88 Westy PC'd with a local guy my body shop uses, & we got an excellent match for it's factory color, but they were more of a semi-gloss or gloss originally.

Just wondering if they'd be able to match the factory black satin for my 73 2L's parts in the resto?
- essentially the same set of parts as as what you've done for your -6.

TIA
Tom
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Honestly, all I told them was run everything semigloss black. I also had 4 sets of 911 engine tin including a set of '76 turbo tin. Their semi black was a dead match for the turbo tin and that's what we needed. 2% of the cars we do are original restorations. The rest are hot rods. Hot rods are easier because we make them look the way we want, not the way we think some judge wants.

Okay, Thanx. Yes - resto-mod frees you up a lot more.

Semi-gloss may work for what I want, I'll probably check something on a test piece.

Thanx Again!
Tom
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Lawrence, your stuff looks great! ... as does Mark's!

You should post the shop so others in SoCal/OC/SD have a good tried-n-true PC source.

Hopefully you'll venture up from South County for the PCA breakfast & 914 display at Original Mike's in Santa Ana tomorrow morning 8-10-ish!

There should be a good number of 914s there, which may push the other "bastard Porsche-NARPs" (924/944/968/951 & 928) over quite a way!


Tom
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Just remember to remove the powdercoat where important safety parts meet, like the rear sway arm and brake caliper contact patches.

Ok... Just joking then. You need to install the races first, then powder coat.

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Now you have to scrape the powder off to get the races on unless you're talking elephant rubber.

Then I'm a lucky man

I'll shut up now.

Not at all. I appreciate the education. Luck doesn't teach much.

Looks great and that is awesome pricing.

I took a bunch of stuff locally that I had mostly blasted myself, this included trailing arms, backing plates, etc. I was very pleased when the bill came in for $145 and it looked great.

I then brought a 2nd batch including engine tins, engine mounting bar, etc. I let him blast and coat all of these. Nearly crapped when he sent me an invoice this evening for $500.

Lesson learned. Trust no one., even if you dealt with them before. Get a quote up front.

BTW, should you need to remove powder coat ... CRC gasket remover, wait 60 seconds, and wipe with a rag. Gone in a flash.

Man your parts look awesome. I see several newly cad plated items as well...any referrals for where I can send mine to have them done?

Those parts look great!

I'm about 24 hours into wire-brushing, cleaning, rustproofing and painting all my tin with a rattle can. Would have paid the $250.

I just sent over one of Ben's new aluminum 914-6 oil tanks to get done. They did a nice job on my origional tank so I threw it in while I was taking over a batch of parts for a customer. They know my standing order is always satin black.

My Elephant Racing poly-bronze bushings slide over the powder coating without any problem at all. I just added a thin layer of JB Weld over the powder coating and slide the bushing on while slightly rotating it to distribute the JB Weld. They fit like a glove.

Jeff B

This is really helpful info and good timing since I found out that there is some powder coating that got into the ball joint bore on my front struts. I was trying to decide how to clean it out but now I have the solution!

Jeff B

Kypton tape can be used to mask off areas prior to powder coating as it can withstand the oven temps. Comes off easily after the part cools and leaves a nice sharp line.

Bump old thread!

I am in OC San Clemente and I need a powdercoat source

Any recommendations?