This is my first post here so be gentle with me. I just ordered replacement trunk hinge pivots from JWest (last night actually) and since it is a beautiful day today I thought I would remove the old, wallowed out pivots. Since I haven't received them yet I am assuming I just need to drill out the spot welds. Anybody have any suggestions?

Have you removed the rear lid and the springs? You need to do that first, and BE CAREFUL with the torsion springs, they can break or amputate fingers.

After that, yes, just carefully grind or drill out the spot welds, clean up the corrosion, prep it with oxysolve, ospho, naval jelly, whatever you prefer, and paint it.

As 9146986 said, be careful with the torsion bars. They store alot of energy.

You can drill out the spot welds with a normal drill, but you may want to be careful that you don't drill through the metal underneath as well. It just gives the rust something to start on. The best way is to use a spot weld cutter, but I did all my spot weld cutting with a drill.
I started out with a 1/4" bit and drilled into the center of the weld untill I could see that the egde of the bit had gone in about 1mm. Then I went to a wider 3/8" bit and just widened the hole but didn't go any deeper. This seems to remove the weld but doesn't go through the metal underneath (it might leave a small divot). Once you cut out all the spot welds, the part you are trying to remove should just fall off.
Also, you may want to remove the paint where the spot welds are. Sometimes they are hard to see and there is a surprising number of them.

If you are lucky, the PO didnt get in there and get crazy with a regular welder and build up a bunch of new stuff to grind off. Both of my cars are that way and it is really a pain to get in there to grind it all off smooth. I will be doing that in the coming week or so to get mine installed. They are great hinges though and should out last the car.

A important thing I forgot to add to my post, is to measure the location of the threaded hole in the bracket. This is where the new one is supposed to end up. I know James' part has some adjustment, but getting it close to begin with is always best.

The other thing you can do is to put the hinge brackets back on the decklid, place it in position and then mark the location. If your brackets were re-welded this may be the best thing to do anyway.

It went smooth and by the numbers. Drilled using gradually increasing sized bits and then some gently persuasion with a screwdriver and out it came. I am grateful the PO never tried to repair. I cleaned the spot up with a wire brush and hit it with some etching primer and I am now patiently waiting by the mailbox for my parts. Thanks for the help.

Whats the trick to get the torsion bars off without chopping your fingers off?

I like to use a cutoff wheel. Cut away the bracket and then use the edge of the wheel to carefully thin the metal at the spotwelds until it peels away. It is best not to cut through the metal behind.

Knowing the location for placement is not critical with my kit, as you can drill the mounting holes with everything in place and the trunk lid shut, to ensure perfect alignment the first time out.

I'll try to hurry on your kit (between shifters)!

I agree with mounting them with the brackets and the lid--u can set the lid to perfect before welding them in, that is how I did it. Placed everything together, then with the lid in proper place--simply put two tacks on them, for holding power, then removed the lid and finished tacking them--excellant results!

The deed is done.This was the last thing holding me back from an inspection and I will try to do that during lunch today. This will be this cars first time (legally) back on the road in maybe 10 years (possibly longer). I want to thank everyone for their advice and help. Great product James! I will do the drivers side eventually as it will no doubt fail, but at the moment, I need to hit the road. Thanks.
P.S. The trick to not chop off your fingers with the torsion bars is to buy a car that already has the trunk and busted hinge removed. That shock kit is looking pretty good.