WTF is the "Bosche module"? For step #3 on page 10 (ignition module installation), it says to "disconnect and remove the OE Bosch module." What is that?

I have a feeling this thing isn't going to work. I don't think the optical trigger and the shutter are set up right (my fault). I wasn't able to fit the rotor back on over the #220 shutter the diretions said to use for Bosch 4-cyl distributors, so I used the #219. It seems to fit the rotor shaft okay, but getting it to fit the optical trigger is another story. It's always either too far down or too high up on the shaft. We shall see. As soon as I figure out this f'ing module thing, I'll get on with the rest of the install, and once the time comes, we'll see if it works.
I have a feeling this is going to turn into a week-long project.....


Thanks in advance!
Cole

Cole, I looked at Cranes site. Is what you are talking about where they say to remove Bosch Module b4 install Crane module? If it is they are referring to the bosch hall and magnetic pickup sytems. Remember these instructions cover a variety of different distributors. They try to consolidate what they can to save space. A points distributor wont have a module.

QUOTE (wrpspddrvr @ Mar 20 2005, 12:40 PM)

WTF is the "Bosche module"? For step #3 on page 10 (ignition module installation), it says to "disconnect and remove the OE Bosch module." What is that?

that's the part of the instructions where they're talking about installing the spark box - not the distributor points-replacement module. that's on page 2.

i can't help you with the shutter wheel selection 'cause i did this to a 6 cylinder car and it was really easy to tell which one to use. with the right shutterwheel installed to the correct depth the slot in the emitter/detector block does wind up in the right place.

i had trouble fitting the mount parts, but part of that was overcoming my preconceived notion of how the parts "ought to" fit. i did have to trim the breaker-plat bracket part a bit and i couldn't mount it where i wanted because the cap latch interferes. and i don't think those are 4-cylinder installation issues anyway ...

Cole....

I gonna try say this very nicely and without confusing or disappointing you....

I HATE CRANE products....I've been messing around that one for my own 914 and it just simply don't fit right at all...I think they made this to fit on many different distributors as possible and have less inventory on their shelf...boy, that's sure-fire confusion for owners like us when it comes to installing.

I have been using Pertronix for years and they worked wonderful. Just two days ago, I came acroos a stash of mine that I totally forgot, Accu-Fire unit, and I bought that to find out if it's good as or better than what I've seen....Yup, they sure are far better than Crane but as good as Pertronix when it comes to installation. I hope to put the Accu-Fired dizzy in my other 914 soon this week and see how it fares....

Well, basically, if you want to keep the Crane, you're gonna have to spend some time to modify and get it to fit right...that's something I don't like when it says it'll fit the Bosch dizzy but ain't fit right!

just my .02 cent opinion....

j

I put a crane module in my 009--no problem at all--went right in--what dizzy are you using??

He still has the stock one for the 2.0 FI.

Well then yes--you will have fitment problems--too bad tho, but u-can-do-it!!

no no no... the crane products are fine (considering they're general-use mass-engineered products)...

i had an xr700 on my 75 D-jet car, and it worked splendidly. putting it on the new engine, too. a bit of a PITA to setup, but worth it -- the old pertonix can fry if you leave the ignition on.


pull the dizzy if you haven't already. makes the process much easier, and gives you a change to clean things up. use the flywheel shutter they suggest. put it on the shaft stem down. it's really tight and may seem like it won't work, but it will. thinking i had to modify it, i cut out some of the "inner teeth" that make it such a tight fit. this helped get it on, but in hindsight it was unecessary.

after that, it's trial and error to get the geometry of the arm and such setup correctly. yes, a pita, but not impossible. set it up so that the wires travel MORE than 180 degrees around the inside of the dizzy before exiting the former points hole. you'll use the "arm" towards its longest setting. this may seem unintuitive, but it works and makes any modification unecessary.

if you're a perfectionist like me, plan on 20+ minutes of F-ing with it until it's "just so". get a gromet and some silicon for the wires, re-install dizzy, connect blah blah blah, and fire 'er up.

timing didn't change AT ALL for the 8 months i had it on the car. totally reliable. great product, IMHO.

Awesome guys. I had to work tonight, but don't have to be in until noon tomorrow (and every day this week), so I hope to get it done tomorrow. Not a big deal, since I can ride my bike to work. I'll pull the dizzy like reccomended and work on it that way. I considered it today, but knew I wouldn't have time. Turns out I didn't anyway!
Anyway, thanks all, hopefully it'll all be worke dout by tomorrow.

Thanks!!

Cole