So went to the wreckers in Austin today, not the VW place but a all manufactures to get some of the parts to put together a Megasquirt 2 v3 system to drive fuel and spark. I found a trigger wheel and hall sensor from a ford ranger 4 cyl, and a Bosch oxy sensor was laying on the ground so grabbed that with a section of exhaust that had a bung on it. I have several throttle bodies but I've come to the conclusion to do individual TB from a motorcycle but use the standard manifolds and injector locations.

I may be wrong but I think McMark has a direct fit solution for the trigger wheel and sensor. It will save you some work.

This is all I could find. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=trigger++wheel

This is what I have so far today
Click to view attachment

What a little heat can accomplish, and no that torch is not for crack! and if anyone has information on this Ford Oxygen sensor I would appreciate hearing from you. wide band ? it has 4 wires and a round plug.

I also picked up the hall sensor

Save yourself a headache and get Marios T IV trigger setup

http://thedubshop.goodsie.com/

I agree, save yourself a headache. Talk to Mario he'll sort it for you. Plus he's a knowledgeable nice guy too.

The trigger will work, but the trigger wheel is no good. You can buy a flat wheel from ebay.

O2 sensor might not work, you need the same Bosch unit used on a WB O2 meter. Most meters have a ouput wire to connect to the EFI.

The dubshop stuff is cool, but spendy, if you are a DIY'er you can save a lot of coin.
BUT, the PM you sent me and this tells me you have not done anywhere near the research needed to be a successful DIY'er. I'd say you need at least a couple hundred hours of research. Then there's the build time and learning curve.
Like I said I'd do a single TB stock intake system first, before you try an ITB system.

If you plan to copy my motorbike ITB's two things, one is give the credit due and two you better be a pretty excellent custom fab guy.
If time is money or it's beyond your skills/tools it's better to just buy the stuff.

@Mark McHenry Ok I didn't realize that I was not giving credit to you for your work and I apologize for any slight I'm not trying to start any wars here. your suggestion of a single intake was noted and considered. While I like your single intake to me for the 914 using the cut down runners allows the use of the stock injector ports. I will post a photo of a setup that was at the end, as far as fab skills I'll just say I can or do pretty much anything Iv'e seen presented on this forum, and If I can't I have access to people who can. The motorcycle exhaust was fabed from straight tubing and the GT 40 was built by a close friend from scratch not a kit I help with a substantial part of the fabrication of that car. I really don't care to just throw money into the project buying of the shelf parts and speaking of the "Dub shop" Iv'e tried on more than one occasion I have called and left messages for a return phone call with no return call. I don't wish to throw anyone under the bus but if someone cant return a call what good is that?

This is a photo of the ITB I was describing. I would move the injectors from the throttle bodies and use VW Vanagon injectors in place of the stock injectors. this takes weight off of the assembly and injects straight at the valve head.

Since my motor went "bang" I have a twin set up just laying about with trigger wheel, etc...interested?

LP yes I would be unless of course those parts were what made the motor go bang. I'll PM you for some details

I guess I should have stuck in a few smiley faces in there.

The more direct shot at the valve I'll say I've never noticed much of a difference, at least not at this level of tune. My version the injector is only about an inch higher.
Some people get stuck on the little details like this, bogging down the project. I admit I have been guilty of this many times.

As to your skill level, that's great, but your PM it was easy to tell you had done little of this research. The parts you are showing again tells me you you need to do more homework.
We've seen this before peeps think it no harder than slapping a set of carbs on, the reality is it's much harder.

The need for research time part I keep harping upon, I doubt if you'll find a single DIY EFI guy here that will disagree with this POV.
I'd say 99.6% of all EFI failures or abandonment is due to peeps who didn't take the time to research and learn how to build and tune the system.

I'm a weber carb guy. I read every book on them and played with them for years. I don't know beans about any other carb or FI. What books would you recommend me or others to get to learn about building and tuning FI systems for the type IV and 6?

Damn, talk about a short runner manifold!! I would agree, if you have the ports in the manifold anyways use them.

No harm done maybe I was too focused on the avitar... I agree that the research needs to be done. In my defence all the links that you sent, and I did open them all, did not provide much detail on the applications of what fits an why it fits. You mentioned the trigger wheel wouldn't work can I ask why it won't work? Is it a ofset issue? Diameter? I want to understand as this was the trigger wheel other people used. I haven't ran the part number for the O2 sensor but aren't all 4 wire o2 sensors wideband? Again please help me understand L do want to know. I guess at this point I can state what I'm trying to end up with is a system that will work for a engine that has a 66mm crank stock injectors cam 1.8 cyl and 1.7 heads and valves I also am building a 1911 engine with 96mm cyl early web cam ,,1.7 heads mild exhaust porting oversized valves 48 in and 38 exh in the end I want a stout Street Autocross engine with more midrange torque than rpm. So if you can guide me where to research to gain those goals please guide away. Oh and I need to do it all for 800 bucks. Lol

Wideband O2 sensors have 5 wires. Not many production cars have them. This info is pretty widely available if you use the Google and spend time reading.

The trigger wheel is the wrong size in the center. You need to open it up to make it fit and doing the accurately requires a lathe + skill.

But if your budget is $800, I'm wasting my breath. You'd be better off getting stock fuel injection to fit in that budget. I'd like to be more supportive, but I know from experience you can do everything you're trying to do with that little money.

Most EFI systems use a similar mapping system for fuel and spark. Once you wrap your head around theory, the individual engine can be tuned. This is best done with a wide band O2 and a dyno. many manufacturers have forums and you could get a map for a similar engine to use as a starting point. Every engine will require a different setup unless you are mass producing engines.

So read every book you can find.

Has anyone done a full write-up on Megasquirt for the 914? It doesn't help to argumentate about credit if there's nothing documented...

GA, who's been waiting for someone to frontier the way to make this happen economically...

I think part of the problem is that like the type 4 engines the megasquirt has many ways to do things. And with the multiple paths lend themselves to opinions and egos. Also not everyone wants to do things the same way. The newer injection systems are the future unless your an absolute purest. Parts for the D-Jet, and L-Jets are becoming more difficult to find and when you do find them there are prohibitively expensive . While I'm trying do do mine on a budget I threw the 800 dollar figure out there tongue in cheek. The simplest MS configuration is to use the stock parts ( except the MAP sensor as the MS come with one, also the throttle postion sensor has to be changed), the temp sensor in the cyl head my or may not be compatible but the MS system can be programed to except the sensors range. The MS 2 with v3 seems to me the most supported version for a type4 with a 901 transaxle. With this system you also can eliminate the distributor and use a coil pack to deliver a hotter and more accurate spark. Now I will be the first to admit I am NOT the expert but by using a laptop it is way easier to program than say a SPICA mechanical fuel injection.

I don't know how to make it happen economically when you can still get IDFs for cheap.