I've been looking at the Precision Instrument website and it seems that my choices are very slim, either very small or very large. I'd like to have a wrench that I can use for my rebuild and still be able to use it for larger stuff. Is there a wrench out there that covers such broad range? I don't want to buy from Sears anymore and I'd like to buy something that is rahter accurate and durable. Precision made the Snap-On wrench for many years and I feel are still better for a whole lot less. Am I stuck having to buy two wrenches?

I have 3, a 1/4" for inch pounds and then a 3/8" for inch to foot pounds and a 1/2" drive one for the larger foot pounds......clicker style...have a couple of beam style units as well........

Just use the German torque method - Gutenteit.

Thanks Mike, I was a afraid of that. I wonder if I should just rent the smaller one.

Harbor freight has several at different sizes and are pretty economical.. I got 2 of mine from them... and both together was cheaper than the craftsman I bought that I HATE...

you can get by with 1... I have a 3/8" one that works for almost everything... it's worked on everything I've needed so far, anyway... clutch job, engine install, and change of heads included... those are a pretty wide range right there..

QUOTE (Headrage @ Mar 23 2005, 01:26 PM)

Just use the German torque method - Gutenteit.

I always seem to torque to the point of regret!

QUOTE (lagunero @ Mar 23 2005, 02:28 PM)

Thanks Mike, I was a afraid of that. I wonder if I should just rent the smaller one.

you could do what I've done with a few items...go in halfs with someone you know and trust...it helps offset the cost and you get more goodies

QUOTE (tat2dphreak @ Mar 23 2005, 01:30 PM)

you can get by with 1... I have a 3/8" one that works for almost everything... it's worked on everything I've needed so far, anyway... clutch job, engine install, and change of heads included... those are a pretty wide range right there..

Yea, that's the one I'm leaning towards.

Good idea Mike. I'll ask the starving students down here

Here is something to think about. Click type require cailbration. and maintenance (clean and lube)
Beam type are more durable and don't require calibration unless you bend the pointer. As long as the pointer starts out @ zero you can see the torque increase and allows you to slowly approach the required torque. Clicktype in my opinion allow the mechanic to go to quickly and obtain to much torque by continuing to tighten after the click. If you ever watched the knuckle heads on Hot rod TV etc. they almost always "double click" So training in the proper use of a click torgue wrench is required. just something I picked up during my employment as a Quality Assurance Officer in the Navy.

with the click type, I normally set it lower and work my way up to the specified value...

QUOTE (Mueller @ Mar 23 2005, 02:54 PM)

with the click type, I normally set it lower and work my way up to the specified value...

yep... i do like 5 stepped values....

i also have a 3/8 clicker, and a 1/2 clicker
craftsman at that

QUOTE (tat2dphreak @ Mar 23 2005, 02:30 PM)

Harbor freight has several at different sizes and are pretty economical.. I got 2 of mine from them... and both together was cheaper than the craftsman I bought that I HATE...

Augh! one of those cheapies cause my MGB to blow a head gasket. After the head gasket blew I tested it against my neighbor's high end torque wrench.. it was only torquing to about half of what it was set to. I now use it as a breaker bar I replaced it with a craftsman that I haven't had any troubles with. The guy at sears said I could exchange it just like any other craftsman tool.. haven't tried to do it yet though.

For most critical engine fasteners one of the 5-80 ft lb would get you off to a good start on an engine rebuild. I'd think twice before buying anything precision from harbor freight, and engine stand, fine, a torque wrench... no. Sears has a line called digitorque or something like that. They run around $90, and have a little window you dial the torque value into. If you are not used to using a torque wrench it’s nice to set it to a specific number instead of having to turn it up to the appropriate tic mark on the handle. Less prone from operator error.

My torque wrenches are the one tool that I will never loan out to anyone, it's as much about being confident that it was done right as it is about being properly torqued.

Jake could put together an engine blindfolded with a crescent wrench and it would probably last 100k miles. The value of knowing that everything was done to spec.... priceless.

Thanks guys. At first I was only thinking about a wrench that requiered the least amount of calibration and maintenance (split beam) but as my options seem to shrink...I agree with the HarborF example...and... I don't want Sears.....5 to 80 lb ft oh where oh where can I find thee?

You can always borrow mine.
Elliot

So what is wrong with Sears Lagunero?

I bought a Harbor Freight one and I can understand concerns about accuracy, but I have a beam style torque wrench to verify it with. The beam style just wouldn't work in some confined areas that the ratcheting type does, and the HF one at $10 on sale was too cheap to pass up.


Andrew

QUOTE (Elliot Cannon @ Mar 23 2005, 02:36 PM)

You can always borrow mine. Elliot

Thanks Elliot, I guess I should return your breaker bar and socket now

Andrew-nothing wrong with the quality/price at Sears I own a lot of shiny stuff from them. Problem is I recieved a couple of gift cards(with receipts) and when I went to redeem them there is zero balance! Although they admit possible wrong doing on their behalf (they tracked down the purchase and cards not swiped) I am still waiting for a solution (my freaking credit!) The amount of use I give my tools do not merit the price of Snap-On and the like so I guess I'll be checking out some other line of tools.

Are going to be Square?

2 words....... Snap-On !

Why waste your time and money with a cheap inaccurate torque wrench...especially when it comes to torqing engine components like...Rods, Heads, Flywheel bolts, ect...

My torque wrenches are the only snap-on tools in my shop, for the rest of my hand tools it doesn't matter (Craftsman works fine) The only thing that needs to work correctly/accurately every time is that torque wrench.

QUOTE (lagunero @ Mar 23 2005, 06:15 PM)

Are going to be Square?

You know me. I'll be square even if I show up.


Andrew

QUOTE (bondo @ Mar 23 2005, 02:02 PM)

The guy at sears said I could exchange it just like any other craftsman tool.. haven't tried to do it yet though.

I seem to recall that they don't do that anymore with the torque wrenches or the powertools . With sockets and other wrenches, no problem.

QUOTE

QUOTE (bondo @ Mar 23 2005, 02:02 PM) The guy at sears said I could exchange it just like any other craftsman tool.. haven't tried to do it yet though. I seem to recall that they don't do that anymore with the torque wrenches or the powertools . With sockets and other wrenches, no problem.

Depends on who you talk to at the Sears. Some of the staff will tell you that a torque wrench is a measurement device, not a hand tool. And as such, it is not covered by the warranty. Some will say that the wrench part (the ratchet, handle, etc.) is covered, but the "clicker" part is not. Some just say, "hey it's a tool" and will tell you to grab a new one...

I bought Snap-On, because my cheapo Chinese torque wrench blew the ratchet out one day while I was torquing the lug bolts on my 914. That was a painful experience I don't wish to repeat. However, I did use that cheapo one for something like five years with no problems until that. I checked it periodically against the beam wrench and it was always on calibration.

I recall reading a survey of torque wrenches that found Snap-On ones were in the middle of the pack for accuracy (or was it holding their accuracty?). But I figured I could just keep checking against my beam wrench, and the quality of the rest of the mechanism would hold up for about ever.

I have three that I use, now. The new-ish 5-75 lb-ft 3/8" drive, the older 15-150 lb-ft 3/8" drive, and the beam wrench which I dig out every few months to check the other two against. For a while, I used the aforementioned Chinese clicker (10-150 lb-ft, I think) and a Craftsman inch-pound clicker (15-150 in-lb or thereabouts), and occasionally checked them against the beam wrench. Then I bought the "larger" Snap-On to replace the Chinese one, and used it and the in-lb one. Just recently I bought the "smaller" Snap-On one to use in place of the Craftsman. If I need less than 5 lb-ft (not sure for what!!) I'll dig out the Craftsman.

Tough to get away from needing two torque wrenches when you have things like the 9.4 lb-ft torque on the sump retaining nut, and also things lik 94 lb-ft for the lug bolts.

--DD