Full Version: 1973 2.0 rebuild
EDIT
There are 3 basic choices with a stock 2.0 & keeping the D-jet:
1. Rebuild as dead stock with stock USA pistons & keeping it at 7.6:1 CR & stock 95 HP
2. Rebuild with Euro Pistons at 8:1 CR & 100 HP
3. Rebuild as a 2056 with the Raby Kit for about 110 HP (see McMark at Original Customs member vendor on here)
Many other things can be done along with that (lightened flywheel, cam, trans gearing, etc., etc.), but those are the 3 main choices.
That said, if your 2.0 is currently running well with good compression at all 4 cylinders, no oil burning nor other problems - then IMHO for now, just chose which direction you want to go, collect the parts while they're available/before they go up (or most of the main ones anyway, then wait until it really needs rebuilt.
You might want to look at websites of & call Raby/Type IV, McMark, Rich Bontempi at HPH - High Performance House in Redwood City CA, Ron at FAT Performance in Orange CA, & others to get what they recco. based on what you want to do with the car.
Good Luck!
Tom
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1. Rebuild as dead stock with stock USA pistons & keeping it at 7.6:1 CR & stock 95 HP
2. Rebuild with Euro Pistons at 8:1 CR & 100 HP
3. Rebuild as a 2056 with the Raby Kit for about 110 HP (see McMark at Original Customs member vendor on here)
Many other things can be done along with that (lightened flywheel, cam, trans gearing, etc., etc.), but those are the 3 main choices.
That said, if your 2.0 is currently running well with good compression at all 4 cylinders, no oil burning nor other problems - then IMHO for now, just chose which direction you want to go, collect the parts while they're available/before they go up (or most of the main ones anyway, then wait until it really needs rebuilt.
You might want to look at websites of & call Raby/Type IV, McMark, Rich Bontempi at HPH - High Performance House in Redwood City CA, Ron at FAT Performance in Orange CA, & others to get what they recco. based on what you want to do with the car.
Good Luck!
Tom
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Tom T outlined your options nicely above.
With 77K miles, are you sure you need a rebuild? I'd do a compression and leakdown test to know for sure. If it's leaking oil, take the time to fix the oil leaks and drive the hell out of it.
I'm currently in the rebuild phase of a 74 2.0 appearance package with factory D-Jet. While I can't be sure, everything tells me that the engine had not been rebuilt and had 160,000 miles on it. I'm keeping the D-jet so my options are limited. I've decided to bump it out to a 2056 (96mm pistons & cylinders), stockish cam and a lightened flywheel. It will give it a little boost in power with better throttle response, but still allow me to keep the d-jet.
Nothing wrong with staying completely stock though - it's your call, but the cost will be pretty comparable.
As far as the price tag, I think I'm looking at between $1500-2000...building it myself (still waiting on the machine shop bills).
With 77K miles, are you sure you need a rebuild? I'd do a compression and leakdown test to know for sure. If it's leaking oil, take the time to fix the oil leaks and drive the hell out of it.
I'm currently in the rebuild phase of a 74 2.0 appearance package with factory D-Jet. While I can't be sure, everything tells me that the engine had not been rebuilt and had 160,000 miles on it. I'm keeping the D-jet so my options are limited. I've decided to bump it out to a 2056 (96mm pistons & cylinders), stockish cam and a lightened flywheel. It will give it a little boost in power with better throttle response, but still allow me to keep the d-jet.
Nothing wrong with staying completely stock though - it's your call, but the cost will be pretty comparable.
As far as the price tag, I think I'm looking at between $1500-2000...building it myself (still waiting on the machine shop bills).
EDIT
EDIT
QUOTE(nomedulla @ Mar 4 2016, 09:56 AM) 
Compression is mid 90s across the board. Leakdown is nil.
This is the original motor and mileage.
I have a spare GA block that I wanted to freshen up and then swap to freshen up the matching GA block.
I picked up some stainless exhaust for it as well.
Need to change fuel lines to stainless and replace motor/trans mounts and oil cooler seals.
Other than painting the tin, that is about it.
Has a little rust in the usual areas I am going to tackle, waiting on replacement gun for my MIG.
Then I will get around to painting it.
SO, bumping up to 96, or cam replacement does not require any modification to the MPS?
I have researched and read a lot about bumping it up slightly, needing minimal adjustments. That appears to be the key to a slight bump?
I do the work myself, so I was figuring about 2K for a rebuild. The forums have been extremely helpful and THANKS to everyone here who has posted their knowledge and experience!
I about fell down the other day when the MRS said why don't you finally do what you want to do to the Porsche... so I am using this limited window I see on the horizon!
It is my understanding that the stock MPS settings can handle the 2056 without any tweaking. When you deviate from the stock cam, some minor tweaking may be necessary. I'm still waiting for the verdict on what cam I'm going with. I told my cam guy that if a slight upgrade from the stock cam will require MPS tweaking, I'd rather stay stock.
Oil cooler seals can be replaced with the engine in the car. I'd run that engine and build on your spare block so you have a plug & play replacement when the time comes. Our cars spend way too much time "getting built."
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