So, I bought the 5 arm engine yolk from PP. very nicely made.

I then ordered an engine stand from evilbay. Rated at 2,000 lbs. put it together this evening, seems very sturdy.

The problem? Yolk hole on engine stand is 8cm. If I put the included head assembly there is about cm. the pp yolk is closer to 5.5 cm.

Any ideas other than sell the new stand on CL and get the cheap harbor freight one whic I think has correct size yolk hole?

Click to view attachment

I have the Harbor Freight stand and it fits the Porsche yoke perfectly.

The heavier duty harbor freight stand has same issue. Same thing happened to a pelican recently.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-tur...d-question.html
In his case the universal,adaptor plate had an inside diameter that fit the p tool better. He cut some new holes and uses.

Sorry to hear of your concern. Question for you, which 5 arm P201 did you purchase? The $300 variety or the $600 one?
Thanks

John,

When you get a minute could you send me the model number?

Thanks
Steve

A friend had one of these so I welded two heavy tabs onto the side of the stand tube with a 1/4" space between them.
Before welding I drilled and tapped one for a heavy bolt and the other oversize.
Once welded I took a hacksaw and cut out the tube between the tabs.

On the heavy bolt I welded a T handle and that is how I tighten the tube. The nice thing is with this setup the engine can be set to any angle.

Sorry about the welds, my whip was shot on my 25yr/old mig welder when I built this stand. It has a tube clamp similar to the one I talk about above.

The easy way is get the Harbor Freights heavy duty [1/2 ton] 4 wheel engine stand which has a bore of 60mm or 2.385. . It's regularly on sale for $59 and with a 20% coupon it's about $48. . .

It's a little tippy if you use the supplied front axle square tube as designed if your motor is a six or any V8 . Then buy a 2 foot piece of 2 inch square tube .120 wall and replace the 16" original part and it becomes very steady even for a six motor. .
I also welded the stand together rather than use the take down bolts supplied. .

The hard way is get an 80 mm bushing made and weld it to the PP arm

I drilled my hole over 1/8" and just throw a bolt through it. No issues. Got mine in Jan so its probably the same production run.

Thanks, after reading that post I used the "milk carton condom" to get a good fit in the adapter plate. I may also weld a bolt where the retaining pin sits. Can't use the handle at rear (yolk extends out too far) but that should not be a problem. If starting over I would just go with the HF stand but this should work. Btw, it is the $300!yolk made by SIR Tools.

Pelican sells the yoke but not a compatible mount ?

One more dopey question, make that two.

1. Does it matter which side to mount yolk on (oil cooler side or other)?

2. I assume order of assembly is yolk to engine. Then spacers then securing nuts. Correct?

Thanks.

Not sure on the 4, but on the 6 it mounts to the left case half (as you're looking at the fw).

Yes the mount mates nicely to the bare case, you'll notice as you put it on. Then spacers/washers/nuts. Be sure you can access things like clutch bolts, fw bolts, etc, that'll determine the best half to mount.

Steve,

Sorry for the delay

Here is the Harbor Freight information on my stand

Central Machinery
1000 lbs
#32916
360 degree rotation

Pelican Engine Stand Yoke
P201-M1229

Hope all is well!

Thanks John, I appreciate it.

Steve

Had the same question when I built my engine.

Answer > http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=231326&hl=


Damn, two years now??

I just use the HF stand with its included yolk.
Works very well.

I'm sure that the basic HF will suit a type 4. But based on my little brain, it's best to pay for the 4 / 5 arm engine yolk for anyone working on a - 6. Especially if you want to access everything at once, unless you like to remove the engine off the stand every time you might want to unbolt the cooler and clutch assembly.

And this is a simple solution:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-6911-ZZ-Ball-Be...NUAAOSwKIpWDDnh

,NEVER use a standard type yoke on a 6 engine unless you have little concern for your case or ,you can however add a conversion yoke to them and they are ok.
I used a heavy duty VW style yoke I made many years ago sleeved and welded to the common V8 type stand,the 6 cyl motor is to valuable to hang of anything else,frankly I wouldn't risk a T4 in the same way.

A lot of hype here, many have used the universal adaptor that comes with the engine stand when building a six with no issue. I use the adaptor ring that fastens to the universal to build a fully dressed early 930 motor, no problem. The P201 tool only attaches to the case at 2 points, you want the strength of several attachment points so that the tool doesn't bend and can support the weight of the engine as you're building. IMO, I was happy to have the 4 points of the universal attached to the adaptor ring, any fewer and the engine would get a little bouncy while torquing things as you build.

The advantage of the special tool (or adaptor ring) is that it attaches to one case half, and it's notched and grooved to sit flush on the face of the case. It also allows enough room to add/remove the flywheel and the tins. The p201 gives you a bit more room than the adaptor ring, but both sill work. If you used the universal that comes with the case, you attach at 4 points (2 on each case half) and you lose the ability to remove flywheel and split the case without removing and resetting the holder.

As with anything, use common sense, check the mounting and stress points regularly for cracks or bends. Finally, quit overthinking and dive into that motor!

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

You are one brave soul. My experience is while you're current setup will hold the engine. Once you rotate a late model engine, the bolts holding the three arms will rotate / possibly losen up. With your 930 on there, I would like to take extra precautions. I've tried your method on just a type 4 and the arms moved. ..I ended up having them welded up.
I hope you don't have the issues with rotating that 930..

I hate to see it fall off the engine stand. Just my experience.

No problems rotating, no problems with what you mention... It wasn't going anywhere. Been done several times with no issue. I currently have a 2.7 -6 short block on there, not going anywhere... Not sure why you had an issue with yours. Those universal mounts are meant to hold much heavier American iron....

The adaptor yoke helps to spread the load,still scares me too,atleast its not a magnesium case engine,anyway its not my motor on there (thank god).

Key word there is "iron", /6 blocks are not "iron".

my 3.o had the top threads pulled out and a bad helicoil job, the only thing I can think of is an engine stand like yours. I removed the helicoil and used a case saver to repair it.

Note looking at it again you have the half ring adaptor and that's OK to use.

Yep you cracked it with your reply and my point also.

Click to view attachment

My setup,steam tube pipe and really heavy half ring,overkill but never an issue,an engineers over the top solution ????

Looking at your stand that's a heavy looking unit, but the issue you will run into is you won't be able to install the #3 piston pin on a /4 build.
I've BTDT with one of my own home built stands.

I have 4 engine stands one is the factory /6 (copy), two are the el'cheapo /4 stands that I modified into 3 arm and added a semi-half ring and the last one is a 5 arm that I made.
The 5 arm I made I had to modify to clear for the #3 pin installation.

You can't see it clearly but the yoke has been notched out with a gas torch,cheers.