I'm having fun testing all the components before the final install on my 1970 1.7 L.
Tested my three port fuel pump to see how it ran and decided to post results, Will see if 914 world allows short videos but here are the stills:

Original configuration was mounted in the engine compartment.
Here's the hoses after hacking them off:
Click to view attachment

Make sure the positive and negative are correct. The plug will help you but just for clarification the positive terminal is on the right in this picture. The negative terminal is on the left.
Click to view attachment
Put fuel filter between gas tank and 'S" ALWAYS. Pay attention to filter flow direction.Click to view attachment


Iv'e labeled the hoses here: It's not hard: The outside port is Supply (from gas tank).
The middle port is the Druck or Pressure port.
The inside port closet to the electrical plug is the Return line.

Click to view attachment

Think about it like this:
The gas tank Supplies gas to the fuel pump to the S port.
The fuel pump pressurizes the system and sends pressurized (Druck) fuel through the tunnel to the fuel rail on the right side (injectors 3&4) of the engine and then passes through the cold start valve injector (sometimes called the 5th injector) and then to the left side of fuel rail (injectors 1&2) then through the fuel pressure regulator.The line returns back through the tunnel to the "Y" junction tee.
Click to view attachment
The "return" fuel splits at the "Y" junction where a portion returns the fuel back to the fuel pump to remain pressurized and partly back to the fuel tank.
I replaced the brittle plastic lines with stainless lines from Chris at Tangerine Racing and ditched the 46 year old plastic T for a brass one. If you are going this far, replace that crudded up old filter in the bottom of the tank on the 10mm fitting.
I mixed about 1 ounce of fuel injector/carbuerator cleaner in 1.5 gallon of clean gas and ran the pump for a few minutes to make sure the old smelly gas was completely out.
The 46 year old Bosch fuel pump fired up immediately, purred like a happy kitten !!!
What a treat !

Why use a 3 port pump? The later model 2 port is much simpler, and new Bosch units are available for about $100.00. No need to rely on a 45 year old pump.

Nothing like installing an old one only to have it lock up or worse weep gas and have to upgrade to a new one anyway....

Dig the pictures and effort though....

Probably so.
Just revisiting an old subject that created confusion in the past and just wanted to provide some insight for the next newbie (like me), henceforth the title: "Revisited".
(I did think about the newer 2 port pumps. If the old pump does go out, I've relocated it to the front for a much easier access in case of future failure.)
Click to view attachment
Soon to be married: Power plant and 1970 Karmann Body


Click to view attachment
Please don't laugh about the cinder blocks. I have some Oregon oakie in my blood.

Wow! I won't laugh cause it's not funny, but I will cry if it falls on you. There is no way I would crawl under that car. If you must use concrete blocks, turn them with the holes and webs facing vertically, The way they are designed. They have no strength and support no weight laying on their side.

Btw, it's spelled okie.

Love the explanation and the photos. Good job.

But the Cabinetmaker is right, those blocks are the wrong way and you should fix that situation.

Keep the lessons coming though.

STOP and do not pass go... OMG not only is that very dangerous but you also have them stacked wrong to begin with.

fix it before you put the motor back in and if you have put the motor in then don't do that again.

Please don't be discouraged by the responses, they are coming from experience and concern.
You have a beautiful car and you are should be proud of your 'hands on' ability.
But please be careful.

All three ports are clearly labeled on the pump at each nipple.
S for supply from tank, D (druck) for pressure to injectors and R for return. Pretty simple except for the D
The electrical connections are also labeled + and - inside the black plastic collar.

PS, get jackstands ......and don't burn your house down.

Your car looks awesome. Nice job. What have you done to it? Show more pictures

Will start separate thread showing five year revival.
But thanks so much for everyone's concern about cinder block orientation.
914 World has been a great resource to my restoration over the years. My mama told me to give back:
So see... I gave two lessons:

lesson 1. How to connect 3 port fuel pump.
lesson 2. How NOT to store your car.

I will put jack stands back under before powerplant goes back in. My original thought was my old jack stands didn't give me enough height to crawl around so I used what was available.. didn't pay attention to orientation of the blocks.
No need to defend myself.. lesson learned without harm.. but like Morpheus:
"I am still here".

You have done several things that I would recommend not to:
- The cinder blocks, as mentioned.
- You have used worm-gear fuel clamps. They are designed to cut into the hoses, which become more prone to leaking. The proper clamps are shaped like a letter Omega, and have rolled edges to avoid cutting the hose.
- You have used clear vinyl hose, or what looks like vinyl. I do not think it is rated for fuel, and will probably not hold up to high-pressure fuel for long.
- The filter you have used looks like a low-pressure one from a carbed car. If it is, it will not hold up to the high-pressure fuel for long.

I hope I'm wrong about the hose and filter, but if I am not you are setting yourself up for a good-sized fuel leak and possibly fire.

FIRE BAD!!

--DD

Thanks Dave. Used clamps, clear filter and gas rated vinyl hoses for demo/teaching only.
I originally shot a short 35 second video clip so you could see the direction of gas flow. Just don't know how to upload and post video yet.

Trying to go out of my way to help clarify how the 3 port pump works by showing plumbing and fuel flow direction.
Couldn't do that with the black hoses.
And yes: I have 30R9 rated fuel hoses, omega clamps, and a hard shell fuel filter from Tangerine racing for the final install.

Thank you for taking the time to explain how the pump and hoses are routed!

I just renewed all my hoses and this would have been a big help.

An admin. should put this is the Lapauwali (permanent) thread file!

Just curious.

We have a cinder block with three webs running vertically in both directions.
Aside from some potential collapse with a force coming at an angle, why do you think they could not hold the same amount of weight?

I do not use cinder blocks to hold up cars, ever...I mean, I would probably use marble or granite cause I like the looks better.

For each block, 7 > 3 so I'm going to say that vertically its 2.33x stronger

(if you count the two long sides as about 4 of the same length as the 3 crossmembers)

Although I just spent considerable time putting the tank back in without crimping the fuel hoses, sounds like I should consider replacing the old (front mounted) pump with the 2 port version while tank is still empty.

Would the routing for the two port version be:

Feed line: Tank - filter-pump
Return: Other end of pump, back to tank

I am wondering if I would need to find a new mounting position for the pump? On the old one (shown) all the lines feed to the rear. Looks like on the new pump, one of the hoses sits at front. Not sure if there is enough room for the hose or to wrap it back toward tank without kinking? (BTW, hoses and clamps have been replaced with proper type).


Click to view attachment

I moved mine to the front to combat vapor lock on the old race car, but the 2 port can be put back in the engine compartment against the lower firewall which is where it is on Dads car...

What Rob said:

After my old three port locked up in 110 degree heat here in Cali....I went to a two port fuel pump and moved it to the lower fire wall where the fuel lines come out of the tunnel. I never liked the idea of the fuel pump hanging over the exhaust.....don't care if I lose a concourse competition or not. Did a thread on it a few years ago. The filter is also easier to service as well.

It was so easy I don't know why anyone would move it up front.

Two Port:

Tank, filter, pump, line to engine passenger side fuel rail. Return is from the pressure regulator directly back to tank ( just eliminate the "Y" in the return line).

Agree! Mine is on firewall too and filter is very easy to replace there.

Do you guys have a part number for the two port Bosch pump?
And what about pictures of the installs on the lower firewall?
I'm doing my stainless steel lines soon and figure i should do the best install (sorry RobW hahaha).

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=pump++relocate

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-69133-Original...t/dp/B000BZL8S2

In process of replacing 3-port pump with Bosch 2-port.

There are no markings for + / - on the new pump although one of the terminals is smaller than the other. Any idea which side if + / - ?

Thx
=====

Never mind, it is my old eyes. Needed a magnifying glass but it is etched in the brown plastic. Bigger terminal is negative.