Full Version: How to stop play
Doing some Spring cleaning and noticed that passenger side control arm has a bit of play when I grab and shake the wheel. Both nuts appear to be tight. No play on the drivers side. Any suggestions to eliminate this movement?
Is it the control arm? Verify where the play is; it could be at the wheel, at the hub, at the control arm, or at the outboard mounting point. Those are each connections that could develop some slop.
If it's between the wheel and hub, take the wheel off and check for anything caught between the two, and make sure you have the right wheels. If it's between the hub and arm, you may need to replace the wheel bearings. If it's between the arm and the mounts, there are several possible causes. If it's between the outer mount and the chassis, you really need to inspect the outer mount and the threaded part of the chassis for damage.
Play between the trailing arm and the mounts is most often worn bushings. Stock bushings are part of the trailing arm and not available separately. You can get aftermarket bushings of varying hardness (the harder ones tend to squeak!) or bearings. The better solutions require more work to install than the less-good ones. The shaft running through the arm can also be worn down. It should be replaced if so, or if you are confident in being able to build it back up and machine to size (and harden it) then give it a whack. The mounting hole in the inboard ear could be worn oval; the right fix for that is to weld in metal and ream the hole to size, or to weld in a washer of the right size. Finally, the inboard ear could be tearing off the car. Fixing that requires finding and removing all the rusty metal and welding on new metal.
--DD
If it's between the wheel and hub, take the wheel off and check for anything caught between the two, and make sure you have the right wheels. If it's between the hub and arm, you may need to replace the wheel bearings. If it's between the arm and the mounts, there are several possible causes. If it's between the outer mount and the chassis, you really need to inspect the outer mount and the threaded part of the chassis for damage.
Play between the trailing arm and the mounts is most often worn bushings. Stock bushings are part of the trailing arm and not available separately. You can get aftermarket bushings of varying hardness (the harder ones tend to squeak!) or bearings. The better solutions require more work to install than the less-good ones. The shaft running through the arm can also be worn down. It should be replaced if so, or if you are confident in being able to build it back up and machine to size (and harden it) then give it a whack. The mounting hole in the inboard ear could be worn oval; the right fix for that is to weld in metal and ream the hole to size, or to weld in a washer of the right size. Finally, the inboard ear could be tearing off the car. Fixing that requires finding and removing all the rusty metal and welding on new metal.
--DD
Dave thanks for the input. Based on all info from previous owner everything was replaced last year. New poly bronze bushings and axle bearings. I will double check everything tomorrow and provide an update.
QUOTE(mzapisek @ Mar 19 2016, 03:10 PM) 
Dave thanks for the input. Based on all info from previous owner everything was replaced last year. New poly bronze bushings and axle bearings. I will double check everything tomorrow and provide an update.
Really Poly bronze? Not the cheap poly graphite? I quick look at the bushings will tell hat they are. Do both sides have the same amount of play?
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