Ok, I have had my windshield installed with urethane sealant and rubber seal. Prior to this installation, I had another 914 sealed the same way. I do not want to get into whether to use original windshield installation methods, etc.

The problem relates to the lower corners do not want to lay down and flatten out. I have used heat lamp, tape, etc over extended periods of time. I have even used gorilla tape to hold the rubber seal down. It just does not want to stay flat. The problem relates to how can solve this problem and keep the rain/water out of the windshield area. I have come to the point of using two part urethane seal/glue and tape/weight the corners down. When considering methods such as this the job usually gets sloppy and does not work well.

I need suggestions on how I can get the rubber corners to lay flat and stay flat. Any suggestions or knowledge is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve

I used a dab of black weatherstrip glue then set a small bean bag over the corner and strapped it down for week. The bean bag will conform to the body pushing the rubber down. It finally stayed down. Only had a issue on driver side.

First mask off the area following the contour of the rubber trim. Very important not to get adhesive on the paint. I use windshield urothane or Black Death otherwise known as super weather strip adhesive. if you want to know why I call it Black Death ask my former employee.

hi,

curious if the following product would be an adhesive that would be

acceptable for the rubber seal for the front trunk?

3M 3m 5200B-1/10gal Marine Adhesive Sealant, Sealant Application: Automotive/Marine, 10 oz. Size 5200B-1/10gal

thanks

randal

a quick front trunk note...I just lay the seal in the track and take it out after a rain to dry. this glued in seal tend to keep water and rust trapped under it.

The things I did was first use a heat lamp and gorilla tape making sure the paint was covering the paint (not to let tape adhesive to get there). This proved to be a waste of time since the angles are wrong for countering the strength of rubber seal and the tension on the lower corners. Used heat and the tape for five days and I ended up back with the rubber seal standing upright waving in the breeze!

The bean bag is along the right idea but I felt I needed something more weighty and stronger to hold down the seal.Got the bright idea from the bean bag suggestion. WHY NOT A STRONG MAGNET???

Got a strong magnet (stronger than normally found around the house) which is hard to take off metal; using several rags as insulation/protection for the paint, put the magnet on top of the rubber seal and at the end of the day the seal straightened flattened out.

I am allowing the magnets to stay on the seal for three to five days (still have not used any urethane two part epoxy) and see if the rubber will continue to remain flat. I probably will eventually use some of the urethane seal to ensure water cannot get under the corners.

A comment on the front trunk seal: before I had the car painted I sanded, phosphoric solution treated, and then had the trough's painted with epoxy primer/sealer and then paint. The seal was then put into the slot and held in by a rubber sealant. The seal is new from 914Rubber and does set a little high, but with time it should settle into better conformity. I feel this is about the best one can do and rain will get into the area. Air blow it out and otherwise try to keep the car out of it. The engine compartment is another story!

Thanks,
Steve

The best way to stop the corners of the weatherstrip from buckling up is to use a T-profile reveal weatherstrip. The outer reveal is flat with a pecker that should sit in the valley between the glass and channel. The pecker keeps the strip from sliding on the glass at the corners. You can trim the pecker short if it bottoms out and sits high.

It has to be installed relaxed and long or as you chase the molding around the glass the corners shorten and lift up because they are taught.

If you are using a flat reveal molding with no T profile start with one top corner and let it set. Work your way across the other top corner and use 2 inch masking tape as you go. Keep the corner radius's loose. Lay the strip as you go and guide it straight, don't tug. Your seam should terminate in the bottom edge middle of the glass. You can put a dab of urethane in the seam for appearance and smooth it with a latex gloved finger.

If using urethane to set the molding use as little as possible -just enough to get bead contact with the rubber and body. To fast cure the corners while installing use a spray bottle with plain water. Urethane is moisture cure.

Realistically the molding should have bond to the glass and not the body. You want to be able to lift the reveal slightly with a trim stick to blow air under the reveal to clean any crud out in the future and driving air to force any water out on its own.

Jeff,

The rubber seal used is from 914Rubber and does go entirely around the glass and does have larger and normal flap overlap to cover the edges. The rubber seal is installed correctly and the use urethane sealant does seal everything in very nicely. The problem is at the bottom of the A-pillar and where the seal starts to bend down and curve around is where it wants to stay away from the metal body because of the taughtness you mention.

I have used the same seals, materials, etc on another 914 and had a similar problem; that took heat and tape to get the curve etc relaxed to where it mates with the sheetmetal.

I am not worried about the materials or how the windshield was installed; it does meet the modern car standards on how windshields are attached. The seal as mentioned does seal around all edges, corners, sides of the windshield. The only problem relates to the thing you identified, the toughness of the outer rubber edge going around the curve and corners. What I have done is to provide a method of getting the outer rubber edge to relax and settle into a new configuration. The magnets are working; I really do not like adding more urethane or heat to the rubber.

The windshield was installed by a quality shop who has done conferrable cars ranging from hot rods, Porsche, Alfa Romeo, etc. I have always used him for my entire forty plus years of being involved this sports cars.

I do appreciate your inputs and do recognize you from the Pelican Board.

Many thanks for your great insight and inputs

Steve

just had my car repainted with the windshield removed and have purchased the rubber windshield seal sounds like the install could be a problem should I stay with the metal trim. can anyone post pics of the rubber seal install thanks

Couple days too late. I just pulled the windshield out of the Alien. I installed it using a rubber trim from an early Dodge Caravan around 1996. I pulled it out around 2003 for some paint touch up. I'm going to re-use it when I put in the new glass.