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slotty008
Does anyone have experience with zinc paint as superficial rust prevention?
DavidSweden
QUOTE(slotty008 @ Mar 26 2016, 02:48 AM) *

Does anyone have experience with zinc paint as superficial rust prevention?


The paint you use over the Zinc must be compatible otherwise it may react and flake/bubble
Tom_T
I've used Wurth Zinc Rich Weld Through Primer on bare metal to provide a sacrificial rust barrier to our non-zinc dipped 914 bodies, & the zinc allows you to weld thru the primer without removal/stripping that area. Eastwood also makes a similar product.

You do need to use appropriate primer &/or paint over it, per the Wurth or Eastwood, etc. mfgrs.' instructions.

For me, it makes for a good barrier when working on small rust areas down to bare metal, then put the primer on to hold that area rust free for later paint & body work. I've also used it on my 2 later cars with rust-dipped sheetmetal/bodies whean working on small areas then repainting around them - such as when the Fiamma awning was added to our `88 Westy.

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Tom
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slotty008
QUOTE(Tom_T @ Mar 26 2016, 05:03 PM) *

I've used Wurth Zinc Rich Weld Through Primer on bare metal to provide a sacrificial rust barrier to our non-zinc dipped 914 bodies, & the zinc allows you to weld thru the primer without removal/stripping that area. Eastwood also makes a similar product.

You do need to use appropriate primer &/or paint over it, per the Wurth or Eastwood, etc. mfgrs.' instructions.

For me, it makes for a good barrier when working on small rust areas down to bare metal, then put the primer on to hold that area rust free for later paint & body work. I've also used it on my 2 later cars with rust-dipped sheetmetal/bodies whean working on small areas then repainting around them - such as when the Fiamma awning was added to our `88 Westy.

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Tom
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I just wanna use it under the trunk seals and in the trunk where there is some superficial rust and also under the seats. Nobody will see it there, so I don't have to paint it later.
porschetub
QUOTE(slotty008 @ Mar 27 2016, 05:30 AM) *

QUOTE(Tom_T @ Mar 26 2016, 05:03 PM) *

I've used Wurth Zinc Rich Weld Through Primer on bare metal to provide a sacrificial rust barrier to our non-zinc dipped 914 bodies, & the zinc allows you to weld thru the primer without removal/stripping that area. Eastwood also makes a similar product.

You do need to use appropriate primer &/or paint over it, per the Wurth or Eastwood, etc. mfgrs.' instructions.

For me, it makes for a good barrier when working on small rust areas down to bare metal, then put the primer on to hold that area rust free for later paint & body work. I've also used it on my 2 later cars with rust-dipped sheetmetal/bodies whean working on small areas then repainting around them - such as when the Fiamma awning was added to our `88 Westy.

beerchug.gif
Tom
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I just wanna use it under the trunk seals and in the trunk where there is some superficial rust and also under the seats. Nobody will see it there, so I don't have to paint it later.


I have used zinc primers for years,pays to leave some light rust on there so the primer "keys" to it.
I have never used 1K but have have no issues with acrylic enamels over it,suspect it might react as mentioned.
The brand I use is slow drying so I normally topcoat the next day or quick dry with a heatgun.
I not sure how this primer will last under your trunk rubber without topcoating.
Drums66
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Valy
Used it for a lot of outside iron structures.
You need to paint over bare metal to ensure good electric contact between the metal and Zinc in the paint.
Don't paint over it as the Zinc works as a sacrificial metal and needs to be able to oxidize "rust" instead of the Iron under it.
For cars, I painted the inside of doors, hoods, wheel arches with it. The bigger yhe surface, the better the protection.
I had an Alfasud in Israel. Those cars rust lile crazy over there due to very high humidity. Did this treatment and the car had no rust 10 years later when sold.
Valy
BTW, when welding Zinc, galvanized metal or whatever has Zinc, always use a closed respiratory system. The gases released are fatal.
Drums66
QUOTE(Valy @ Mar 26 2016, 04:45 PM) *

BTW, when welding Zinc, galvanized metal or whatever has Zinc, always use a closed respiratory system. The gases released are fatal.



.....Very good point!
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slotty008
QUOTE(Valy @ Mar 27 2016, 01:43 AM) *

Used it for a lot of outside iron structures.
You need to paint over bare metal to ensure good electric contact between the metal and Zinc in the paint.
Don't paint over it as the Zinc works as a sacrificial metal and needs to be able to oxidize "rust" instead of the Iron under it.
For cars, I painted the inside of doors, hoods, wheel arches with it. The bigger yhe surface, the better the protection.
I had an Alfasud in Israel. Those cars rust lile crazy over there due to very high humidity. Did this treatment and the car had no rust 10 years later when sold.

If it stops Alfasuds from rusting ( they rust everywhere, not only in Israel) then it must work as rust prevention.
Thx,

Robin
slotty008
QUOTE(Valy @ Mar 27 2016, 01:45 AM) *

BTW, when welding Zinc, galvanized metal or whatever has Zinc, always use a closed respiratory system. The gases released are fatal.

Thx for warning me , I really didn't know, but I'm not planning to weld anything. I also have zinc paint in a spray can. Could that be a problem? It's not mentioned on the can.

Robin
MMW
QUOTE(Valy @ Mar 26 2016, 07:45 PM) *

BTW, when welding Zinc, galvanized metal or whatever has Zinc, always use a closed respiratory system. The gases released are fatal.


If you are talking about metal fume fever which comes from welding it is not fatal. You usually feel like crap for 1-2 days as the symptoms subside. Drinking milk helps lessen the effects. Look it up on the web for more than you want to read but it is not considered fatal.

As with any welding, painting, grinding, etc. breathing of the fumes in the long term is probably not the best for you. Limited exposure is the best solution.
forrestkhaag
Good point on the ventilation issue when welding / agree.gif

I use a cheap box-fan set on high to flow fresh air over the point of welding and to flush out any toxic fumes before they can enter the mask...


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cary
I'm using it along the lines of what Tom does.
But I plan to wipe it and any self etching primer off with lacquer thinner a week or so before I spray with epoxy. But the weld thru primer will be under and in the enclosed areas.

My .02c. I'm using SEM for rust protection (thick spray) NAPA for welding areas (thinner). When these run out I'm going to try some U-Pol.
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