I need to pull my rear window to seal up an air whistle on the highway....
I realize it may be partially due to the targa top seal also

is everyone still using butyl rubber?
is there a better way?

I thought about commercial windshield poly glue, and also thought about how impossible future removal could become...

what experiences have others had?

I have done many rear windows and I found that with just Butyl the window can slip down and loose its stick. I add a small amount of black calking along the top edge of the bottom Butyl and haven't had one come loose since.

I used butyl from NAPA and it is solid. There are two small rubber strips that the window sits on to prevent it from sagging down. Be patient, once that butyl sticks it sticks hard.

YUP! dont forget the rubber strips! I just did this, bought all the parts for front and rear from AutoAtlanta. no problems

Thats what Lennies914 said a few years ago when I told him my method. I went by the other day and he said it had come loose!

have the strips and butyl in stock
Chord
http://shop.914rubber.com/searchquick-subm...?keywords=butyl

Blocks
http://shop.914rubber.com/914-Windshield-s...ck-914-WSSB.htm

The real key is making sure both surfaces are clean.

Are the setting blocks for the windshield the same as for the rear glass?

Brant...

I've used both butyl and 3M product...both work fine

3M 051135-08609 Window-Weld 08609 Black Super Fast Urethane - 10.5 oz Cartridge

Used it many times on race and street 914s...not any harder to remove than butyl
apply with a caulking gun

Make sure the butyl tape is kept in a warm location before install, it will make fitment easier.

I also went for a new lower seal between the window and the engine cover --914 Rubber has everything you need to do this right.

Don't forget to start by cleaning, cleaning and more cleaning -- prep is key here.

Yes they are

Mark.

I screwed up
Ordered the butyl from you today
Didn't realize the windshield blocks were the same as the rear glass blocks.

Any chance you can stop my order and add the blocks into the same shipment?

Good news you ordered at a little after our fedex pick up today.We can get them included. Just place the order through the site and we will refund the shipping.
Mark

Good reminder. Just ordered. I wanted to get this done before Hershey

Ordered.
And thankyou!

Was one enough or should I have ordered 2?

Setting blocks? Two!

All I have to say is....

WOW...YOU JUST DON'T GET ANY BETTER SERVICE THAN THIS!

Crap crap crap

I only ordered one

Crap that was stupid of me
I'm m ordering a second now

And to finish it off, add the electrical tape all around the window edge from inside, before putting back in the interior.

I had no idea there were setting blocks on the rear window.

The butyl works just fine and it is really easy in my opinion. The guy at NAPA said that in his years at body shop it was important to go with the original since in some cases (most now) the glass is part of the roll protection, and is engineered.

Am I mistaken or did nobody reference Eric's nice write-up in classics?

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=15821

That's the process I followed two years ago, and it seemed to work for me.

You could technically cut one in half in a pinch.

I did the rear window a couple of months ago on a hot day.
Worked really well,made sure the surface of the window and the metal were absolutely clean (Acetone).
Only thing I noticed is that the Butyl tape I ordered appeared to be half the thickness of the one I took out. It looks too thin and doesn't completely fill out the area where it's sitting in.
Haven't driven the car yet so no idea if it will stick....might reinforce the bottom edge with caulking...

I used urethane on a front and rear window many years ago. Never again. Both windows cracked in a year.

I used 3M 10+ years ago but would go with Mikey from here on....

I used butyl on the 76 back in '10 and it is still solid. Agree with the previous comment re: clean surfaces.

Interesting. Many sites say go with or offer 3/8s-9.5mm butyl tape but it seems the factory used 8mm or closer to 5/16. I just used the widely recommended 3/8s and it seems too thick to me. I could not get it to spread as far as the original had as evidenced by some residual staining on the window sill. I could barely get the glass to sit on the rubber setting blocks as the butyl was so thick it left little room even with the small relief channel built into the bottom of the window frame for the adhesive.

I used a heat gun to make sure it was pliable but I couldn't compress it enough to get the glass to remate up with the lower outside rubber strip. It left more of a gap than I would have liked on the outside, filled of course with butyl. Measuring the original gasket I removed, it was compressed about 2,5 to maybe 3mm. Using a 9.5mm tape that many recommend, even if you could compress it by half, your still way above the original spec. Doing it again I would use 5/16s for sure

You can stretch it to make desired thickness, so the difference between 8.5 and 9mm is easily accommodated.

I hear you, but if too much, it has to go somewhere and when pushing on it through glass, not the easiest thing. Would have liked at shot at running voltage through the original to get it nice and pliable!