Going to try and put my motor back in the car today and have a few last minute questions.

1) Tranny to motor fasteners, is there a torque spec?
2) CV joint gaskets, go in dry?
3) Exhaust stud nuts, copper or steel?

I will probably post a few more as things progress during the process.

Thanks

QUOTE (Headrage @ Mar 27 2005, 06:05 AM)

Going to try and put my motor back in the car today and have a few last minute questions. 1) Tranny to motor fasteners, is there a torque spec? 2) CV joint gaskets, go in dry? 3) Exhaust stud nuts, copper or steel? I will probably post a few more as things progress during the process. Thanks

The transmission to engine, There may be a torque spec but I just put them in till they are really tight, I have never used a spec.

CV joint gaskets, make sure you grease the CV's up really good with new grease and then the gaskets should be new and dry.

I use the copper ones because they are 12mm and you can get a socket on them easily. If you use anything else, you may not. Besides, they are better and designed for that.

Thanks Scott. Next question. How do I get the old pilot bearing out and the new one in and which side does the felt washer go on the flywheel?

Bearing first....felt washer second...

If the flywheel is off you can drive it it with a similar size socket.

If on (and according to Haynes)

Pry out felt washer and then use a hook ended extractor to draw out the needle bearing.

Coat new bearing with Moly Sulphide grease and press in so that a depth of 0.126 (1/8") between the flywheel face (hole where it fits in) and the lip of the bearing exists.

Install new felt washer.

The felt washer keeps the lubricant in and crap out of the bearing...you can do away with it if you really want.

Copper exhaust nuts are shit.

But maybe I shouln't say that because they do make me good coin in stud repair

Okay here is another. How much does a fully dressed out motor w/transmission weigh and where are the best places to pick it up? There will be 2 of us.

Engine = 300 lbs, Tranny = 85 lbs no oil, Total = 385 lbs

Are you working with a lift or 914 jackstands?

The car will be on a lift but I have to: 1) Transfer motor from stand to back of truck. 2) Transfer motor from truck back onto stand. 3) Transfer motor from stand up onto work bench. 3) Bolt up transmission. 4) Transfer motor/transmission onto upright transmission jack. I just don't want to grab it while lifting and have something break off.

Allan: Thank God I have it all in one place.
Joe

Once the motor gets to the cases closed I can't pick it up, so from then on for me its the cherry picker.
Joe

QUOTE (Mark Henry @ Mar 27 2005, 07:24 AM)

Copper exhaust nuts are shit.

what nuts should be used then?

QUOTE (Headrage @ Mar 27 2005, 08:37 AM)

The car will be on a lift but I have to: 1) Transfer motor from stand to back of truck. 2) Transfer motor from truck back onto stand. 3) Transfer motor from stand up onto work bench. 3) Bolt up transmission. 4) Transfer motor/transmission onto upright transmission jack. I just don't want to grab it while lifting and have something break off.

Assemble the driveline on the floor, then slide the jack under it. I have the HE's installed prior as I use them as "handles" to "guide" the engine into place...otherwise, I use the ears on the rear of the tranny for that purpose.

If you have a rolling table, capable of supporting the weight of the assembly, I place the drivetrain unit on it and lower the car over the assembly...makes installation real easy.

I generally support the drivetrain assembly just rear of the oil screen plate on a jack...with a short piece of 2X4 or 2X6 between the jack plate and rear of engine case.

The jack I'm using is an upright. About 40 inches tall when fully lowered.

Well, you'd better get a 3rd heavy weight to place the drivetrain on the jack...400 lbs~40" high.....

Will it hold the engine stable enough to mount the tranny while the engine is on the stand alone?

QUOTE (SLITS @ Mar 27 2005, 08:00 AM)

Will it hold the engine stable enough to mount the tranny while the engine is on the stand alone?

Possibly, I think that might be the way to go. It's got these adjustable pads on it that I canput a piece of plywood on. But where to grab? Heads, fan housing?

Engine alone...we lift it by the engine bar and heads (engine tin could interfere) or tranny studs...whichever is more comfortable....I assume you mean lifting by hand...

If you have adjustable arms..try supporting it on the engine bar and rear of case on the stand.

Just did one last night.........from rolling table to bed of truck. Can you say "hernia"?

QUOTE (SLITS @ Mar 27 2005, 08:12 AM)

Just did one last night.........from rolling table to bed of truck.  Can you say "hernia"?

Okay, that should get us started. I'll start a new thread with pics as things progress. Should be riveting.

Three nuts now huh.

PS....requested parts went in Mail Friday (at least that's what they told me).

Thanks Ron.

QUOTE

QUOTE (Mark Henry @ Mar 27 2005, 07:24 AM) Copper exhaust nuts are shit. what nuts should be used then

Hopefully he meant to use the copper plated steel nuts they work good.
Wurth sells em.

the nuts. posting twice today 12mm. i remember when andy's new engine ate the tranny. was it a small carrier for the the input shaft that was placed incorrectly? it should've been placed in the fly wheel and was put in the end of the crank?

k

Nice Nuts!

So what's the consensus? Are those the one to use or not? I have those which I bought for the exhaust and I also have steel ones.

Yes... use copper plated nuts for the exhaust.

yep. inspect the threads on the studs, clean them as best you can. next time i plan on trying jake's milk of magnesia on the studs trick.

k

These are the way to go. You need to check your stud lenght or you may need to put a washer on first.