I've got a door that I need to ship. Greyhound has been mentioned as an inexpensive means to get it from Ccincinnati. How should I box this thing? It's still has the glass in it. Door handles and locking mechanisms have been removed.

Would it be enough if I taped a couple of layers of corugated cardboard to the outside?

Rick

My recommendation... not that I have any interest in the matter...

A cardboard box. A couple of layers thick. Lots of bubblewrap, especially around the vent glass and the corners.

Packed well with foam, shredded paper, crumpled paper or cardboard bits. Anything to brace or block the item from shifting in movement.

Let me know how much the materials to do this would cost.

-Rusty
pissed at tie rod ends

These are Porsche's...all you need to do is roll do the window and attach a tag to the handle hole with Rusty's name and address on it. Greyhound will make sure it's delivered safe.


Or

Is that Abram tank parts I'm thinking about?

Almost impossible to ship doors w/out damage. The first set I bought shipped common carrier. The second set were shipped UPS. Both sets were shipped w/ all of the guts in them. Both sets arrived w/ the edges folded over (hard to fix).


Late doors have a crash beam in them and they weigh over 60lbs each complete. If you are going to ship doors you need to strip them. You also need to attach something rigid to the front & rear edges of the doors to protect them.

My .02

A few years ago, I had two doors shipped to me from California to replace the rusted out shells on the Bee. Both were well packaged, and arrived without any damage.

Padding was taped to the edges of the doors, and especially the corners. Not a ding or a nick.

-Rusty

Thanks guys, those are some good ideas. I had to read Lawrence's post twice. I wasn't sure if he said he had a vested intrests or a rusted intrests. :-)

I've got some 1x1 wood material that I may use to strengthen the inside of a homemade box. Expanding foam may be what I use to ensure everything doesn't move arround.

Always open for more ideas.

Rick

roll the windows down before you ship. get a good box, try a moving co if all else fails, and cut down to fit. shipping will be a bit dear, period. i would worry about suitcases being stack on top during stops between destinations. find a small wooden pallet and put a box together w/ screws and some 1/2 plywood. chances are you will be in an oversized situation, length+girth, over 108" and it can be a bit shocking. use the a.atlan price for insurance. if it's wrecked you might get more than you're selling for.

kevin

At the local hadware store, in the plumbing section they have some nice dense foam that is used to cover hot water pipes (in my region at least). 4 foot goes for something like 25cents. I'd use it especially on the edges and maybe wrap a couple of them around the door.

I'd box the door in an initial box with packing material and afterwards, pack this box in another box and inch or 2 bigger that the first one with again some packing material).

I usually box my stuff from boxes coming from a furniture store (i get there around 4pm when the trucks come back with all the boxes). I especially like the cardboard corner they use in boxes for big apliances. I usually use this in the second box to secure the first one.

Marc-André

Rolling the windows down, and packing the inside of the door with paper is probably a good idea, yeah.

I hadn't thought of using a pallet as a base. I wonder how heavy that would be.

-Rusty

Excellent idea M. I hadn't thought of that. We've got plenty of furniture stores arround here. I had planned on rolling the window down but the fixed vent glass will still be standing prowd.

Lawrence, how do you feel about me removing the vent window and stuffing it inside the door?

you don't need a pallet that would be used for stacking bricks. one of 2x4's and 1x4's, use utility grade, could be assembled fairly cheap. that nylon staping can be used to secure the door to the pallet as well. the beauty of the pallet is that the handlers will not be a inclined to sling it around and it should be hard to lay wrong side up. the time spent building a good box is prob less than the time spent chasing down a damage claim. in an older aa catalog their price was $550+ shipping used, shell only nothing else! new, $1261. insure according.

kevin

edit: the early style windows were $356 n and $150 u. i would ship doors every day if i could be guarenteed they would wreck them.

Make it as easy on yourself as you can. I can certainly reassemble.

-Rusty

pulling the vent glass and asso pieces can be a pain. with it removed you could get away with 24x48x8 inside demensions, bummer, over the 112". assem it goes to 38x48x8. over size applies to both. if you go to fedex's site,others too i'm sure, you can determine rates with 2 zipcodes. check the diff before you tear it apart. do not go to a mail boxes etc. type store. they really tack on a big surcharge.

kevin

crate it! build a small crate, put the door inside (after bubble wrapped, filled w/ stuffing etc) and then box it up!

Nice! Silly question....got pics? How about rough dimentions? Was it shipped with the inside facing down or up?

Rick

Well, this is what I came up with....

...this

...and this

...

Oops...how'd that last one get in there?..