Any nifty ideas or hints on this fun little task?
I live in fear of losing the socket in the hole.
Thanks,
kp
Full Version: Parking Brake adjustment
Hello fellow Michigander and welcome to the club 
Fear not... your worst problem with be getting the inner adjuster covers off. Here's the scoop:
1. Remove your parking brake cables. (In Michigan, they're probably fused together with ferrous oxide.) Remove the clips and the pins.
2. Remove the outer adjuster covers and then the inner adjuster covers. These take a 13mm open end wrench for the outer covers (if they're still there, most aren't) and a 4mm hex wrench for the inner cover. You'll want a socket set with a long arm and the hex bit. 80% of the time the inner adjuster cover will be stuck and hence will strip (simply not enough hex surface area to overcome the rusted engaged thread). If this is the cae, your now in for a dime in for a dollar. Take the caliper off. Take a Dremel with a cutoff wheel and cut a groove in the cover (order a new 10mm cover and copper gasket now... even if you get yours off, you won't the next time.) Once you've grooved the cover take a chisel and hammer and whack it until it turns. Hey... now your ready to begin adjusting!!
3. If you had to take them off, put them back on. Turn the inner adjuster "CLOCKWISE" to force the piston in toward the rotor. Do this until you have a .008 clearance.
4. The outer adjuster has a 13mm lock nut holding it in place. Loosen the nut but don't force it too far out. It has a lock clip on the shaft that will stop it from going too far. Now turn the outer adjuster "COUNTER CLOCKWISE" to force the piston toward the rotor. Same clearance.
5. Install the new type cover on the inner adjuster and install your rare unobtainable covers on the outer adjuster.
6. Reinstall your handbrake cables.
7. Put your car up on jackstand and yank the engine so you can be like the rest of us!!
Fear not... your worst problem with be getting the inner adjuster covers off. Here's the scoop:
1. Remove your parking brake cables. (In Michigan, they're probably fused together with ferrous oxide.) Remove the clips and the pins.
2. Remove the outer adjuster covers and then the inner adjuster covers. These take a 13mm open end wrench for the outer covers (if they're still there, most aren't) and a 4mm hex wrench for the inner cover. You'll want a socket set with a long arm and the hex bit. 80% of the time the inner adjuster cover will be stuck and hence will strip (simply not enough hex surface area to overcome the rusted engaged thread). If this is the cae, your now in for a dime in for a dollar. Take the caliper off. Take a Dremel with a cutoff wheel and cut a groove in the cover (order a new 10mm cover and copper gasket now... even if you get yours off, you won't the next time.) Once you've grooved the cover take a chisel and hammer and whack it until it turns. Hey... now your ready to begin adjusting!!
3. If you had to take them off, put them back on. Turn the inner adjuster "CLOCKWISE" to force the piston in toward the rotor. Do this until you have a .008 clearance.
4. The outer adjuster has a 13mm lock nut holding it in place. Loosen the nut but don't force it too far out. It has a lock clip on the shaft that will stop it from going too far. Now turn the outer adjuster "COUNTER CLOCKWISE" to force the piston toward the rotor. Same clearance.
5. Install the new type cover on the inner adjuster and install your rare unobtainable covers on the outer adjuster.
6. Reinstall your handbrake cables.
7. Put your car up on jackstand and yank the engine so you can be like the rest of us!!
the replacement inner adjuster covers are a must-have. you can get 'em for a few bucks at pelican, you won't be disappointed.
~a
Got a question about tension on the parking brake cable.
We reset the venting on both rear rotors, no problem
Then attached the parking brake cables and took up the slack at the firewall while keeping the bridle inside the cabin even.
The parking brake works for gentle sloping driveways; but not so good on a steep hill
My question is whether I should tighten the adjusters at the fire wall a couple of turns ?
My goal is get the parking break to hold on steeper terrain
@Eric_Shea
We reset the venting on both rear rotors, no problem
Then attached the parking brake cables and took up the slack at the firewall while keeping the bridle inside the cabin even.
The parking brake works for gentle sloping driveways; but not so good on a steep hill
My question is whether I should tighten the adjusters at the fire wall a couple of turns ?
My goal is get the parking break to hold on steeper terrain
@Eric_Shea
QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Aug 22 2022, 05:42 PM) 
Got a question about tension on the parking brake cable.
We reset the venting on both rear rotors, no problem
Then attached the parking brake cables and took up the slack at the firewall while keeping the bridle inside the cabin even.
The parking brake works for gentle sloping driveways; but not so good on a steep hill
My question is whether I should tighten the adjusters at the fire wall a couple of turns ?
My goal is get the parking break to hold on steeper terrain
@Eric_Shea
very good question Jim. I have yet to tackle the rear calipers/emergency brakes. It would seem as though the venting clearance is set first, followed by the emergency brake cable adjustment. I sense the rear brakes are barely working on my driver, if I raise the emergency brake handle slightly, I can get more brake pedal and improved braking. This leads me to believe the venting clearance is incorrect.
Stuff I do that may not be officially sanctioned but hey I need to pass inspection every
year and the 'self-adjusting' over time is not good enough.
* (With cables slack or off) Instead of setting clearance to 0.008", turn inside and
outside adjuster screws until you just barely feel some resistance when turning the
rotor with your hand.
* Install cables and adjust length until you can just see that the caliper lever is barely
off the stop.
year and the 'self-adjusting' over time is not good enough.
* (With cables slack or off) Instead of setting clearance to 0.008", turn inside and
outside adjuster screws until you just barely feel some resistance when turning the
rotor with your hand.
* Install cables and adjust length until you can just see that the caliper lever is barely
off the stop.
QUOTE(mskala @ Aug 23 2022, 07:59 AM)
Stuff I do that may not be officially sanctioned but hey I need to pass inspection every
year and the 'self-adjusting' over time is not good enough.
* (With cables slack or off) Instead of setting clearance to 0.008", turn inside and
outside adjuster screws until you just barely feel some resistance when turning the
rotor with your hand.
* Install cables and adjust length until you can just see that the caliper lever is barely
off the stop.
I like this method, thank you for sharing
* Install cables and adjust length until you can just see that the caliper lever is barely
off the stop.
That’s what I’ll do next, I’m real close to having a “hill stopper”
off the stop.
That’s what I’ll do next, I’m real close to having a “hill stopper”
QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Mar 28 2005, 07:41 PM)
Hello fellow Michigander and welcome to the club <!-- emo&:trophy: -->
<!-- endemo --> Fear not... your worst problem with be getting the inner adjuster covers off. Here's the scoop:
1. Remove your parking brake cables. (In Michigan, they're probably fused together with ferrous oxide.) Remove the clips and the pins.
2. Remove the outer adjuster covers and then the inner adjuster covers. These take a 13mm open end wrench for the outer covers (if they're still there, most aren't) and a 4mm hex wrench for the inner cover. You'll want a socket set with a long arm and the hex bit. 80% of the time the inner adjuster cover will be stuck and hence will strip (simply not enough hex surface area to overcome the rusted engaged thread). If this is the cae, your now in for a dime in for a dollar. Take the caliper off. Take a Dremel with a cutoff wheel and cut a groove in the cover (order a new 10mm cover and copper gasket now... even if you get yours off, you won't the next time.) Once you've grooved the cover take a chisel and hammer and whack it until it turns. Hey... now your ready to begin adjusting!! <!-- emo&:D -->
<!-- endemo --> 3. If you had to take them off, put them back on. Turn the inner adjuster "CLOCKWISE" to force the piston in toward the rotor. Do this until you have a .008 clearance.
4. The outer adjuster has a 13mm lock nut holding it in place. Loosen the nut but don't force it too far out. It has a lock clip on the shaft that will stop it from going too far. Now turn the outer adjuster "COUNTER CLOCKWISE" to force the piston toward the rotor. Same clearance.
5. Install the new type cover on the inner adjuster and install your rare unobtainable covers on the outer adjuster.
6. Reinstall your handbrake cables.
7. Put your car up on jackstand and yank the engine so you can be like the rest of us!! <!-- emo&:woohoo: -->
<!-- endemo -->
With one exception... the clearance. There was a typo due to a translation error. The clearance is supposed to be .004, not .008. Setting them to .004 means you get a better pedal, and the park brake handle has a shorter travel to engage the brake.
Clay
I had just mine to .005; would another .001 make it that munch better ?
QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Aug 24 2022, 06:21 PM)
I had just mine to .005; would another .001 make it that munch better ?
Might make your ride faster
After going through the parking brake issue, I’ve realized a degree of success. The brake holds good on gently sloping streets.I am curious whether other find their 914 parking brake usable on hills…
QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Aug 25 2022, 04:15 PM)
After going through the parking brake issue, I’ve realized a degree of success. The brake holds good on gently sloping streets.I am curious whether other find their 914 parking brake usable on hills…
I have to use wheel chocks on my driveway which is not that steep.
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