Long time member just haven't been around much lately- new job, moving to new state, new house, house projects, friend blows up turbo motor in 914, takes some time to locate a good used 2.0 and get it installed, you know, the usual stuff.

So I get the replacement engine and my prior trans in the car, and baseline the SDS computer so it starts and idles. Try to select a gear and get crazy grinding. No matter how I adjust the cable, grind grind grind. From way to loose, to way to tight, can't get a gear. With the engine off, can select any gear with ease.

I start the car in 1st. And with the clutch fully in, we're creeping ahead. Try it again with trans in reverse. Now creeping backwards. This is not affected by the clutch adjustment- happens with a loose, tight, or to tight cable. Clutch seems to engage right off the floor, no matter the tension.

So it seems that somehow the clutch is not fully dis-engaging. Can we agree on that? So whats the deal here?

I'm thinking ball pivot. The plastic cup in the t/o bearing yoke was new, so that self destructing is not it. Could the yoke have popped off the ball? I haven't had anyone around when I've been working on it, so I haven't been able to have someone push the pedal in so I can see whats going on. Back to ball pivot. Possible the flywheel on my replacement motor has been milled a few to many times, and I need a washer under the ball pivot to get things back in alignment?

Any other ideas or experience out there to help me out here?

My similar problem was due to clutch cable tube breaking loose. This is such a common problem.

If the clutch release geometry is at fault due to flywheel wear or resurface, often the release arm will hit the trans case before it can fully disengage the clutch. Shimming the pivot ball out ~2mm may help.

Clutch cable and throttle cable wound around each other down by the pedal set?

I'd start there ...

Bringing this back, finally got back to the car to check the cable out. Using mirrors, flashlights, boroscope, have determined the clutch tube to be intact and holding at all weld sites. I had someone slowly depress the clutch pedal, (cable tension was set super loose) and the t/o bearing arm would contact the trans case before the clutch released. When the t/o bearing arm was in a static position, there looked to be more space between the arm and the engine case than the arm and the trans case. Again, with tools on hand I was able to confirm the arm was correctly attached to the ball pivot stud.

So I'm thinking the stud needs to shimmed out. Problem is, I have no idea if or how much the flywheel may have been cut prior, as it came with the motor. From what I recall, the plastic cup in the arm was in good condition. The trans, arm, and t/o bearing were the same ones used on the prior motor. The clutch and PP on the new motor came with the motor.

Any guess on how much shim to add? I am hopeful that I can leave the engine/trans in the car, disconnect the shift rod, clutch and speedo cables, remove the 4 nuts/bolts that connect the 2, and slide the trans back enough to get in there and do what needs do'ing. I have a spare arm, t/o bearing, and plastic cup (If I can find it all with the move) that I can bring to compare with whats in the car now.

Any BTDT advise from the collective?

Go to the local hardware store and buy a washer that will fit under the ball stud (8mm). Then remove the ball stud and put the washer under it and reinstall it with some locktite. Hook the trans back to the engine and check the arm location. It should be farther forward.

You said you installed the previous engine and trans. Had they been bolted together the whole time? If so, the clutch disk may have gotten bonded to the flywheel/pressure plate. People have fixed that by putting the clutch in and driving around, getting on and off the throttle a bunch of times, to where the clutch disk finally freed up.

Corrosion, our old and dear friend, is probably one of the causes of that.

--DD

CP- I've shimmed other cars and get the process, was wondering if anyone had a rule of thumb to determine the thickness of the shim. I found another thread where sticking a dime under the ball stud cup in the T/O bearing arm was the trick used...

What should the location of the arm be in the opening between the trans and engine where the arm comes out? Should it be in the middle of the opening, or closer to the engine? I'd be guessing, but its gotta be less than 1/4" from the trans case, with maybe 1/2" of space to the engine case. When I'm looking to determine shim thickness, any reference to the correct location for the arm in the opening might help me work out the details.

DD. I had that thought also, but after seeing the arm contact the trans case after such a short throw, I'd like to think we're on the right track here with the shimming. I'm hoping not to have to address your "fix it" suggestion.

Any one have some pics of their T/O bearing arm in relation to the trans/engine case openings?

Thanks.

I've read that the fork should have about 1/2 inch of free play. I don't think the shim has to be a specific size as long as you generally get about that much play and no more. I didn't overthink it when I did mine but put a basic washer there. I've also read that you should maybe use Teflon tape on the ball threads to prevent leakage.

Here's a decent reference: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...ch_replace3.htm

Search for the flywheel specs.
There is a measurement between the face you mount the pressure plate to and the face of the friction surface, make sure those are right first.
There is also a depth measurement which you need to determine how much to shim the ball stud.

You can shim it, or you can heat and bend the shifter fork, or both
The measurement will guide your decision but basically if it's more than two washers it gets risky how many threads are doing the work, so bending the fork a bit comes into the equation.
I have also seen people grind away part of the Tranny housing to get even more throw

Just went thru this when fitting the Honda engine in my 914. The new flywheel from Kennedy measured almost an 1/8th in. different in depth from the bell housing, and I ended up using two washers under the ball stud, and installing new nylon bushing. You can simply slip the transaxle up tight to the engine, put one nut on , and see the position of the clutch fork. If it's not moved towards the engine enough, pull the box, and add another washer. I ended up shooting for around 1/4in. of free play when installed, to give as much clutch motion as possible, and it worked fine; clutch engagement is just where I like it.