here is a pic of my harness with most sheathing removed.

there are a few good harness modification links on the internet but i am stumped at the moment as to what else i can cut off this harness.

my email: jimkellysells atttt gmail dotttt commm
for anyone that wants to email me directly.

i cut plugs, 1,2 4. they are for abs, cruise control and ac. i believe. pic at bottom showing all 3 male side connectors on car.

my biggest question is all the wires that go thru these two big junction boxes and which ones i can cut. especially the one with 2 smj's on it. i could use a pin out for these 2 smj's.

looks like i can cut all wires to the smaller one as it is labeled - power windows. ??

it is hard to parse loose wires when they are running thru an smj. i may cut all and tape them together, parse loose ones, and the solder the remaining needed ones.

Jim,

What you need to search the internet for is a "pinout diagram" that shows what wires are used when doing a Subaru conversion. These start at the ECU plugs and go from there. It doesn't have to be a 914. I have one for an SVX...looks like this:

Click to view attachment

Careful using this one it probably will not match at all. Just a reference. Lots of VWs have 2.2Ls in them now, so check The Samba.

If you click this link you will also find resources for the 1990 Legacy wiring diagrams:

Link to legacy wiring diagrams

You need this to understand how everything works. One CRITICAL thing you can't remove is the diode. The car won't start without it. You end up cutting most of the harness the way I did it. You do use the fuel pump relay, starter relay from the Subaru. And of course the whole engine wiring harness.

Prepare yourself for this part because it's not fun. Get ready to do this a lot .

the harness parsing video i saw of a later model legacy went so smooth and easy but he had no smj's in that harness. the smj's make for a bunch of extra hours of removing them prior to the initial parse, it seems. thanks

If you look closely you'll see that most of the wiring stays as is on mine. Yours should be similar. The fuel pump goes to the fuel pump wire on the 914 harness where the relay board was, the starter goes to the starter switch on the starter, there are some 12v switched and unswitched, etc.

Best thing for the early 22ej is the keneddy wire diagram. It's hard to point out on the pic but basically track the wire from the computer to the plugs that conect to engine or tac,started,ect. Do not take out any diodes in the harness!! If posable have the diodes some ware you can pull it. The car should not start without the diode, one more layer of theaf proof. (19 I think?)
The subaru relays for the fuel pump and the one next to it are keepers as well.(the metal bracket between 3-5 holds them) The dash plugs (10)- (12)can go. There are a couple wires to splice together from that plug.

(22) is also not used.

^^^ This guy knows stuff. He's helped me a lot.

Did find this interesting link too.

Shoptalk beetle conversion

Forgot what year? If it's the 95.5 I'm out!!!

I'm emailing you a pic of a rough cut down one. The pin on at the computer is for later use .

1990 legacy 5spd

here is some progress, lots of wires removed, and some identified. i also botched up a few things, hope all are repairable.

>>> my worst botch was cutting or disconnecting one of the engine plugs nearish to the ecu plug. these wires have one unsheathed wire and one seems to missing a red wire.

>>> such as where to wire in diode, i tried to keep it attached but then somehow it was gone and in my loose wires box.

i cut thru fat alt wires (* will just run a stand alone wire from alt to battery & wire up dummy light and guage later)

i also have a lot of soldering due to the bigger smj, and its wires i cut assuming most would be trash BUT most seem to be staying (* soldering done at this location for these many wires)

there is more but i think i made some good progress regardless.

jim

Yep, you HAVE to find where that diode goes and put it back where it was or the car will not start. You can actually wire the alternator directly to the battery using a new fatter wire. Check my thread and see how I did it.

chris,
thanks and i see your alt wire pic. are you not using the other wire bundle (red connector) that connects to alt, that gives ecu, alt power info?
jim

so one fat wire from alt to battery.
the other plug on alt is for dummy light and guage.
one problem conprehended
thanks jeff

if this is a pic of diode on precut harness, its wires seems to run to one of the engine bay engine connectors. i should be able to verify tonight.

a little video on how to solder 2 wires together. i got a bunch to do tonight. no mention of flux?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9G9gaokqvM

Resin core solder doesn't use any other flux. Jim, your going to be soldering alot and I would highly recommend that you get one of these. http://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-60501.html . Not so much for the magnifier but to hold your solder joint steady as it cools. If your solder joint moves before it is cooled you will have a "cold joint". Not good. A good solder joint will be shiny. A cold joint will have dull finish.

i will, thanks for tips.

Jim, do yourself a favor and get the wiring diagram for the car. This will help you
to determine which wires goes where ( plus they are color coded) which will make
your job much simpler. Be careful of Battery and Grounds leads Subaru reused
them to connect to the ECU and the fuse block.

just bought one on ebay.

BEFORE YOU CUT ANY WIRES DOUBLE CHECK FIRST!

most wires i cut at smj soldered back up. gonna sit back down with harness to find the two wires for diode to connect to.