Installed new front wheel bearings last year,and checked them and there shot???.
Im talking couple hundred miles.

Why driving down the highway had a low pitched howling.
Started checked the rotors by touching them and 1 was really really hot,let it cool down and drove home.

Pulled the wheel and saw the bearing was shot,and had marks on it where the spacer between the bearing and the lock nut was rubbing on it.

So I ordered my new bearing set etc and waiting to install,but I cant find a decent write up on how to do it properly.

Since I have no picture of how the wheel bearing assembly looks like,I am installing it the same way it is on my wheel,but even that could be wrong.

I have installed new rotors,pads etc and spline or hub has no marks etc.
So I need to know the order of how the parts are assembled,and whether or not the big seal that comes with it goes on front or back of bearing.Any help would be appreciated,especially a diagram.

Sorry for the long winded post just tring to explain my problem in laymans term.

Thanks Grant

sounds like the bearing races were not seated all the way and finally worked there way in and you ended up with to much space.

Your right not much out there.
Use this ...................
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/P...Replacement.htm

Sounds like you might have tightened the bearing nut too tight. I like to tighten it up, then loosen it just enough to be able to slide the washer behind the nut with a screw driver.

too. If you follow Elliott's method, this is the procedure a majority of us follow. Essentially that little bit of play between the spacer and bearing allows for the heat-induced expansion when the bearing is in motion. Tried and true.

Sounds like I have a plan.
Thanks for all the support.
Cheers and have a Great Weekend.

Great replies gentlemen ,all types of hubs this type use this method,914,911,944,and VW beetles.
Packing of the grease into the bearings is really important many don't pack them right because nobody wants this foul stuff over their hands ,put on some disposable gloves and really work the grease into them,make sure you pack the inside of the hub partially and 1/2 full the bearing cap.
Pays to recheck the adjustment after a short drive also.
Lastly use quality bearings like SKF and FAG,I think FAG is the original brand used from memory.

the heat expansion in this case is almost undetecable ,in normal conditions ,with proper grease and tighting of hub nuts they dont get hot, warm but not hot hes got a no grease problem IMO pictures tell it all maybe he`ll post some....

MikeC

Then why the allowable (recommend) play?

Recommended play? I don't recall ever reading or being told about "play". If the bearings are adjusted properly and you grab the tire at top and bottom and try to wiggle it back and forth there should be NO play at all. Being able to slide the washer back and forth a bit indicates the bearings are at the recommended "tightness".

This is a standard AX safety item and pretty easy to do.

Or you could use the scientific method:

- Tighten the nut by hand
- Use a large screwdriver in the slot on the nut and give it a "whack" with your wrist
- Done ...

make sure your calipers aren't sticking ..the brake pads dragging will make a weird whine or howl..

i agree with Andy ,Rob and Elliot....the way I do it is tighten until you feel drag on the wheel then back off 1/4 and tighten the allen...do you have any pictures of said bearing? ...do both sides while it on blocks because you probably have the same issue coming on the other side..good luck ..

MikeC

Thanks for the advice.
Problems:
1.I tightened the bearing to much, the washer after the bearing did not move,and was scratched up.
2.The bearing got really hot,had no grease left in it,and had a lot of play.Shot.
3.I started to try and take apart my caliper and see if I could free up the piston a bit,piston had dry rust on it,and I could not move the piston very much..

So I bought 2 new bearing kits FAG.
2.Ordered 2 rebuilt calipers.
3.Installed new hoses to front calipers.
4.Repacked new bearings,installed new reeses(and made sure they were seated).
5.So once I get my rebulit calipers installed,Ill bleed the system of all the old fluid and hope that solves the problem.
Wish I had taken some pictures,once the rebuilt calipers arrive in a couple weeks Ill post some up.

Thanks to all.

good deal double check them spindles good luck
MikeC

I think this is semantics. I would call being able to move the washer "play", or allowable tolerance. Clearly there should be no discernable lateral play in the wheel/hub but there is some slack left, otherwise the washer wouldn't turn. I've just always been curious why this is so on conical wheel bearings. The double row bearings obviously get torqued to specs to seat the balls in the races. But conicals almost always have this little bit of looseness required for proper installation. I'm assuming Stu or one of our resident MEs will educate me eventually.

To the OP, sounds like you diagnosed the problem correctly. Honest mistake. You'll get it this time around.

Clearly there should be no discernable lateral play in the wheel/hub but there is some slack left, otherwise the washer wouldn't turn. I've just always been curious why this is so on conical wheel bearings. The double row bearings obviously get torqued to specs to seat the balls in the races. But conicals almost always have this little bit of looseness required for proper installation. I'm assuming Stu or one of our resident MEs will educate me eventually.

Painted one
correct no slack but not tight,ya gotta find the sweet spot!... the old man would go tell the wheel stopped spinning(gently) then go back a 1/4 I just bypass the stopping part

the washer unless different on a four then six should have a tang to hold it in place and a machined surface on the spindle it sits in and does not turn/spin

you set the outer race with a press or whatever works for you ,there is no seating of balls or roller bearings or torque n them ever, anywhere , if the outer race is loose you have other issues

the looseness is so it will roll its a wedge and when you over tight n it forces all the grease out rather fast and it gets hot ...were only talking thousands here..about the thickness of a nice sheen of grease

and you just got educated LOL hope that helps .. the OPs got it this time

side note
I did install one one time on IIRC 2.5/8 shaft, some sorta boiler condensate pump ,it required 10.000 play in the double roller bearings for heat expansion,adjustable outside race`s were tricky as "F" to get right all the way around and both side,took me two days... still the hardest to date and most expensive $3600.00 bucks a copy
MikeC