I'm getting ready to bolt the trans to the engine befor reinstallation.
I put in a new clutch and the had the flywheel resurfaced. The machinist told me it had never been resurfaced. I have read on here that a washer should be added after resurfacing.
I'm wondering if I should just leave alone given the condition of the flywheel.
Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
Jack

If you took material off both the flywheel and the pressure plate mounting surface you need to shim the fork ball the same amount.

So, read the stock spec.
See how much was removed by your machinist.
Add a shim or washer of th same thickness.

Makes perfect sense.
Thanks very much.

dp

giggety

You have to do both steps in the flywheel. not if...

Thanks Mark but could you elaborate?
Thanks,
Jack

so i recently did the flywheel resurface and new clutch, and went to install a shim under the pivot for the shift fork. HOW THE HECK CAN YOU REMOVE THAT DARN THING? its recessed down in the tranny case wall in a circular cutout, and there is not enough room to get any tool that I own between the pivot base and the hole its in.

any help?

Just screwdriver it out and buy a new one....cheap to buy

That's how to get the ball cup off the pivot arm for sure. The pivot ball on the trans case comes out with a thin-wall deep socket, IIRC. I do remember that there is not much thread on it so a single washer is about all that will fit. After that it's time to find a thicker flywheel.

QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Jan 27 2014, 11:00 AM) *

Snap On "FMS14". It's a 14mm semi-deep 12 point chrome socket. Fits perfectly.

Harbour frieght cheapo or used 14mm deep socket and a grinder mod.



The 914 flywheel is a two step grind. the friction surface and the pressure plate mounting surface must both be ground the equal amount.
Two step costs a bit more, the majority of flywheels (including many 911) are flat no step grinds.
Your machine shop will know this,

I'll elaborate, I hope with Marks approval.
To renew the friction surface some material is machined off.
If an equal amount of material is not removed from the mounting surface the
clamping force of the pressure plate is reduced, likely leading to clutch slippage,
even with a new disc.
It is also important that the machinist removes the material completely to the outside wall of both surfaces so the PP and disc seat on flat surfaces.

Hmm,

So I too had my flywheel refaced. No idea how much they took off and i am installing a new clutch and pressure plate.

Have not mated the tranny to the car yet but I did put a washer under the ball cup. Just grabbed whatever washer fit. Should I have done so?

My understanding is that without the washer you risk being unable to fully disengage the clutch but will only discover this after everything is back together. What is the downside to having the washer in there if it is not needed?

Is it also correct that the washer can go EITHER under the pivot ball OR under the plastic cup?

Just received a brand new FMS14 direct from Snap On. No thinner than my 1/4 drive gearwrench 14mm and it does not fit.

The washer MUST go under the pivot stud; if you try it under the plastic cup, the center of the cup bushing will quickly become a hole, and fail. You can fit two washers, as I have on my box.

To get the socket in the tiny space around the stud, take a grinder to the edge, and bevel it on the OD, so it will slip into the recess around the stud/nut. Took me awhile to figure that one out!

Harbor freight or Craftsman sockets worked for me. Sometimes us poor folks get lucky.

Hit a craftsman socket with the grinder and that did the trick. Just miffed that I wasted money for the SO socket which did not work. Hopefully I save someone else from doing the same.

I do not know how much was taken off the flywheel. I found two washers that will fit. First is 1mm thick, other is 1.5mm. What have other folks used?

Thx

You guys are getting too crazy with the washers.
I've never needed more than one washer 1mm thick.
By that point the disc is hitting the ground down bolts.

The other risk you are taking is pulling the threads out of the case, there's not a whole lot of meat in this area. Thread repair is a trans tear down IIRC.

Sorry that you had a problem with the fit of the socket. I followed the Cap'n's advice, and the FMS14 socket worked for me...with no grinding necessary. Maybe new sockets are made thicker...

Is that a 1mm washer in addition to the one already there from the factory?