....ok...I get it now.

This forum is a forum for you Forrest to personally jibe and rib your friends.

Got it.


Think it was Stalin who said keep your friends close but your enemies closer.

In the future I.ll stay off your threads so as not to Hijack them as a courtesy to you Forrest.

Again, your honor,... leading.

Teener is correct in his view.


I offer my clear and unabridged apologies to Larmo and all others that I have replied to over the years and particularly for the unabashed hijack of this thread. I should be ashamed.

I am woefully remiss in wasting the valuable time of Monday afternoon World surfers in offering humor, experience and opinion interspersed in my musings on a site that should only be used for singular pointed and focused comment directly addressing the original opening topic of that thread.
was I thinking?



Last post. (....as the British say when facing a potential defeat)

Yes you are a bad person....really ???,I personally don't give a FF about what people decide is a hijack with exception,if you had asked why your window didn't go up and down I would call that a hijack because its not related,lets not get to the level that Pelican gets to @ times,forrest you should go to the naughty corner even though I think you are entertaining mostly .

Seems like some folks are just getting irritated over piddly shit these days - must be something in the air

Like I mentioned earlier, the crow's foot - I'm almost 100% sure that Steve will let you borrow his

Or,

I put a cover in my Fender using quarter turn fasteners. Now I can get to that nut whenever I want with a proper wrench.

I gave up trying to get something in there ...

But then again, it's a conversion and I am not a concours type .......

Nor, much of a fabricator


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Function over fashion

Made one from a cheap box end wrench...fClick to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

My tool is also metric. Not that hard to make one. Just get an AN-16 equivalent crows foot and grind it down until it fits. Harbor freight has crow feet or worse case buy there open end wrench set, cut off the handle and put a square hole in it for the extension. That's what I did, but I used a metric open end wrench, cut off the handle, drilled a hole, grinded out the sides to make it square and then ground down the sides until it fit the opening. Same thing as the previous post, but i used the other end of the wrench.

My engine oil cooler went to Rich Johnson for evaluation and remedial circumcision, reconfigured to fit a 914-6.

The unit I sent him was a leaker, so he provided a known good, solid (expensive) replacement. Now I know that part of my build is reliable. I'd hate to install my engine and have to try to remove that back off of the engine while it's installed.

The leaker got sold off to Sweden. The Swedish are clever, but maybe not THAT clever.

Forrest: Tortoise and Hare, once again.

Oh man, I love 914World drama so much.

We are all disfunctional friends down here in the Orange Curtain of So Cal. So it looks like thread hikacking, but it's actually harassment on who can get there six conversion running first.

My conversion will be done when it is done. I'm in no race or hurry. That seems like a recipe for disaster to me.

I never dreamed it would take this long, but due to finances, parts, and construction, it still seems a ways off.

I am getting ready to tear the heads off to do a little porting work. So it goes.

You're going backwards.

You should be ashamed. Send me your car and $5000 and all will be forgiven.


Then, don't do it again. This is a serious place where we talk about serious topics with serious people, seriously. Frivolity is not to be tolerated.

Good!! Take your time and do it right. They are never done. At some point they are just driveable.

WHEN ???

I've been talking to a well respected 911 guy who thinks that 32mm intake ports on my heads are akin to NASCAR restrictor plates.

Is it worth the time and money to open up the heads to 36mm and flow my manifolds? (now shorter ones)

Depends.

How much $ will this cost you?

What's the benefit in HP and torque?

Will you be racing the car in NASCAR events?

Flow might be important for engines that live at WOT most of the time...like Nascar engines... I think your engine will be more helped with higher airspeed in the inlet ports, helping response and low rpm driveability...

Dont fall into the "Airflow is everything"-hole...

Why don't you install the engine, get it running, and then decide if it doesn't have enough power. You've already got a list of work to do, why add more on speculation? If you wanna try it again later you can pull the motor in an afternoon.

Pros: A Bit More Power
Cons: Spend more money. Spend more time. Risk losing motivation. Risk a neverending cascade of "while you're in there" (twin spark, cam swap, etc)

In my book, port work sounds like an adventure for another day.

Depends on cams T & E cams like small ports early S & Solex like large ports.

I ran a stock US 2.7 S motor with Weber's and 1 5/8" headers and was very happy with it. Even the factory RS 2.7 only put out 220 hp and that was with mechanical injection.
If you can change the cams, I would install solex cams. They work the best with carbs. If the motor needed a valve job, then I would look into improving the heads "while your in there". Otherwise the motor stock should run fine and will be a huge difference over stock four.

Anyone that beats on Lawrence needs to come and talk to me. I think he exorcised his demons on to me as I now have two sixer projects going. He's making great progress and gets plenty of fun harassment from his OC 914 friends. We all want him to succeed and get to driving his car again.

Larmo,

I consulted the Porsche 911 Engine God "Bruce Anderson" RIP. According to his bible, (1st,2nd and 3rd edition). He recommends 40 IDA 3C webers, 911 E cams, European Carrera RS pistons and cylinders and increase the ports to 36mm in diameter. Straight 911 2.7 has 32mm ports. Interesting that he says the 911S and Carrera motors had 35mm heads. My motor was a US Carrera motor, so who knows... but it was a fun motor until it started pulling head studs after 150k miles of abuse in my younger years.

Since I have the first, second and third book, your welcome to borrow the 1st or 2nd revision. The performance section of the book is all the same info for 2.7 motors, between the 3 revisions. Great info and every six person should have the book. Bruce is a legend and taught rebuild classes for most of his adult life.

I agree with Mark's comments though. If it's a lot of money and time, I would try the motor the way it is. Not that hard to remove the motor later for improvements or a bigger motor.....

My 2.7 in the conversion car was put together per Bruce Anderson's book, but eventually pulled a head stud (even though we had used Timeserts in the case). When I had Henry Schmidt at Supertec rebuild the long block with Casesavers and his head studs, he used a S cam profile and his other magic tweaks. 199.5 horsepower at the rear wheels with 40 IDA Webers and stock heat exchangers is an awful lot of fun in a 914-6.

Bruce's recommendations make a great reliable engine, but I think Henry is the man these days!

I would lust to have one of Henry's hot rod engines.

I have that Bruce Anderson book.

I can't read, but I do look at the pictures quite a bit.

Because that way he can join Mueller in the "boy is it gonna be a great motor when it finally runs" club?

--DD

Actually, I'm trying to take an intelligent approach to the task I've taken on.

I am in agreement with McMark's comment.

Also, it may be time to just let this thread die.

Lawrence don't get into that work,just get the lump in there ,Nascar is nascar ,Porsche design logic is up there ,you need to maintain power in your normally driving range RPM otherwise it won't be easy to drive,mods are great but you have to read up and find an equal balance of drivability against top end power...enough of my rant.
Good luck man

Please don't let your thread die.
I wish you the best in completing your goals in one way or another. If it were easy... insert wise quote here.

I know a guy who has been building a show quality muscle car for a long, long time.
When i say building, I mean he writes checks and breaks out the credit card.

About two years into the project I told him that he would never ever finish that car and that would be intentional, by design.

he said I was FOS but I went on to explain that he was in love with the dream, the fantasy.
If he ever finished the car he would have to accept that it is not absolutely perfect in every way and that it didn't live up to his dreams.
That scares him so he'll never finish the car because he doesn't want to.

Again he said I was FOS.

Fast forward 13 years later the car was ALMOST done, but he decided it needed a color change.
And it now needs an automatic transmission instead of the $3500 manual he had installed.

He has at least $70k into it already but he will never drive that car.



Some folks dream of finishing a project, for some the project IS the dream.


In summary, PUT THE DARN CAR TOGETHER! Please.

Perfection ain't Lar's problem. He's a slop artist like most of us. He just does this for the attention.

Question about mounting the fuel pump.....

Hard mount, or rubber bushings? I know it needs to be grounded too.

Interesting choice of pumps,appears NOS ,I have a nice shiny NOS Hardi and never used it,where do you plan to mount it ?.
Seem to remember them rubber mounted,if you need mounts I think the early BMW 3 and 5 series AFM/airbox ones work if your mounting holes are 6mm.
No pressure regulator required for the pump you have which is a bonus.

I sourced it from Australia, I'm mounting it up front....

You'll see.

I used rubber bushings on all my pumps. That way they don't transfer vibration to the body.

Hard mounting will transfer more noise to the chassis.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#9217k33/=17itoht

Some more welding to be done tomorrow, bottom front trunk metal with louvers, and oil cooler. Once that is done and painted, the oil cooler, oil cooler lines, thermostat, fuel pump, and fuel tank & lines all go in.

***I'm putting the spare receiver on the front bulkhead, anybody got a 15" space saver tire that they can measure for me?***

Diameter needed. Thank you.



I'm excited to move to the back of the car now, I think that is near where the motor is going to go.

I can get you a diameter tomorrow evening after work. Or, you can drive down to Vista tomorrow evening, grab some tacos, and borrow mine, so you know it's in the right place?

Found it.....20.25" for either the 15" or the 16".....

Thanks!!

My 15" 951 space saver is only 19.75" in diameter, and CRAZY light to boot.

(I plan to use them on the other car, should save me 10-15lb per corner!)

Progress......

Click to view attachment

A bolt-on, eh?

No those look like the butt weld clamps. They work great.

Yup. I just discovered there a 2 different grades of butt weld clamps.

We ground down the middle squares to make them as thin as possible.

They work great for this application.

Sunday welding day....


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Welding guy is somewhat finished, so I decided to start building.....


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