I ran the aftermarket Permatune Capacitive Discharge ignition and stock distributor rotor rev limiter with a pertronix points replacement. Never had a problem with it. Curious if this system provides any more horsepower?
Does look expensive and a lot more work to implement, however I did my 2.7 six conversion back in 86 and a lot has changed since then.

It's actually plug n' play. Just the fact that there is no distributor to turn and power has to be a bonus power-wise.

Perry Kiehl made me the engine harnesses and called Richard Clewett multiple times to get it right.

Perry is a GREAT GUY to deal with too, btw!!!!!!

It is the folks like Richard Clewitt, Perry Kiehl, Eric Shea, Richard Paar, Harry Schmidt, Brad Mayeur, Racer Chris, and many more (apologies to those not named directly)that make this hobby so wonderful. Their advice and willingness to share their knowledge is without equal and what allow us to still in joy these cars when many of their contemporaries have long gone to the crusher.

Why?

Amen, brother, add in Mark & Matt at 914 Rubber, and Bruce Stone too!!!!

... and Mark Whitesell


EDIT: Lawrence beat me to it. Add Bruce to the list too

When it rains, it pours; now that things are going well again, the good news can't stop! Even without the '66, though, your project is looking great.

Keep up the progress photos and in the meantime, drop in on C&C just blocks from your 914 (on jack's stand)....

and Perry did my harness in similar shiny perfection and helped with tech info in the install to the tach adapter etc... Works perfectly

Does the roller nut go on like this, or with the ridge side down?

Other way. The step shoulders up against the bushing

Don't forget McMark as the credits roll.

We're gonna be here a while listing all the good guys

Eric Shea, Rick Ollah, Garold Shaffer ... and the list goes on

So, what? You've got somewhere else to be?

Actually, I do, or should be, Marc.

(Mark with a 'C' ... is that pronounced "Marcie"? ) .... / ._ / .... / ._ ...

You can call me Marcus......

That's what I thought....

Before:

Click to view attachment

After: Solid bronze bushing/spacer permanently bushed into idler arm.....

Click to view attachment

Good points made, Perry was slow to get my loom done but came in with a top quality product ..was very happy with the end product,Clewit leads are another great product which I used in my build,talked with Bob @ ashlocktech and got my ignition 100% and for a carbed engine really can't believe how well it starts and runs.
Running Pertronix II with Marelli dizzy ,Permatune blue unit from 75 MY 911 ,but I found from Bob my coil was wrong,Perry had mentioned this also so I ordered Permatune transformer coil and all was good.
End result is truly worth the work.
Would love crank fire but haven't looked into it and not really too educated in that area.
Good luck Lawrence .

I'll be using Bob's TachAdapt in this build......

Lawrence are those from Henry Schmidt? There on my short list.

The guy who ported my heads did these.

Anyway you could get me some dimension s on the bushing upgrade? I could make up a set for me

Yes, I get them back next week. These prevent wear and "walking." The stock aluminum spacers will be elliminated.

These will never wear out.

Been following your thread and I am almost in the same exact place as you are on my 3.0. Got my idler arms done by Henry Schmidt through Ken at 911 Vintage in Fallbrook CA. I think that this is one of the best design improvements you can do to improve the chain tensioners for sure. Before and after Pic.

I got to get my thread going again!

Good luck with your build! See you at the 914 Fun Day
Click to view attachment

Thumb planted firmly up ass, ready for all of the "I told you so" comments......

Click to view attachment
I'm bitter, disappointed, and frustrated at this point. (again)

Alright, I told you so .There, I said it. Now what was it that I warned you about?

This cost me six weeks. I know the /6 Porsche engine will be insane and fun, but if I had this to do all over again, I wouldn't have done it.

Is that a Rudge under the blanket?

You need to look at the build as part of the fun.

[/quote]
You need to look at the build as part of the fun.
[/quote]

This is "fun" when my guy gets here to put this lump back together, and we start with the serious stuff.

Supposed to be this week "sometime." Uhgg.

I did make a pretty big offer on the '66 911, she is thinking about it.

I have been at my engine for about 3 months now so I feel for ya but remember one important thing and that is you are doing it yourself so it WILL take longer. The ugly alternative is pay someone. Nope! I have been held up several times for various things and suffered some set backs but like you said it "will be insane and fun". Difference is I would do it again.

Keep at it it will be worth it. Got the timing set over a week ago then had family in for 10 days. Timing was a big hurdle for me and now the real fun begins finishing it up.

Hopefully this pic will provide some inspiration. I was where you are just a couple weeks ago.
Click to view attachment

I feel you on that. When I think back to how long my car was off the road, how I felt in the midst of the conversion, and how I've felt as I sort it, I think I should have kept it a four.

Then, last Saturday, while I was driving the car from Emeryville to Berkeley, and listening to that overhead-cammed flax six behind me rumble, then sing through PM's Dansk sport muffler, I was soooooooooooooo glad I did it. The car feels, yes, insanely special in a way it never did as a four. And it sounds absolutely sublime—right up there with the best sounding Porsche's I've ever heard.

... Please get a heavy-duty 4-wheel engine stand and a P-201 type yoke attachment ... wouldn't like to hear your 'luck' ran out.

Good luck.
I can't afford a 66 911 and send my kids to college but I'm trying to get the 66 912
Sort of funny that one of my kids roommates has parents that are (not exaggerating) billionaires.

Are /4 steering shafts longer than /6 shafts? This is a "future project" that I have been messing with whilst waiting for my engine to come to life....The four shaft seems way too short.




Click to view attachment

The heads and manifolds are back, too. Build day is supposedly tomorrow. I'm not holding my breath.

Click to view attachment

What year? I think the early ones work for the conversion 70-71 but not the later years 72-76. But there is a recent thread or 2 about the conversion as well as sir andys thread

Here you go, snapshot from PET. Late would appear to work

Click to view attachment

Put the engine back together today and clearanced the case a bit to install the Clewett crank fire system pulley...It was very satisfying to make some progress.

Click to view attachment

Nice ,what are the main benefits of crankfire as opposed to all the old tech or even pointless setup,just asking cause TBO I don't really know.
Lawrence your head guy came in fast,did you go to bigger valves with the porting? see the inlet manifolds opened up,nice.

Valves were fine, we opened up the ports to 36mm to fit my cam profile a bit better. We did a few other small "tricks" too.

The Clewett system is easy, (very) hot spark, and "set it & forget it" timing.

Precision. Distributors have some slop in them; the moving parts cannot move without a little bit of it, and they will wear so the slop gets worse. With no moving parts, a crank-fire system will always give you the spark at the point where you call for it.

Wear. A reluctance sensor pretty much does not wear. Distributor points wear, changing dwell and timing. Even if a pointless setup is used, the distributor parts still wear, leading to more slop as above.

Flexibility. Basic distributors only "know about" RPM. So you get the same ignition timing at a given engine speed, no matter what. More advanced ones can be hooked to manifold vacuum, and possibly to a ported vacuum signal, giving the distributor some information about what is happening to the throttle. A crank-fire system is computer controlled, and it can read every sensor in the car if need be. It can alter the timing based on RPM, throttle position, manifold pressure, engine temperature, and even on recent history. If you know what you're doing, that can help get the most from the engine. (If you don't know what you're doing, it's more ways to get things wrong.)

--DD

I have the longblock assembled, and today I set the fan/alternator on for the final time. Hooked up Perry Kiehl's EXCELLENT main wiring harness, and installed the fan shroud. Manifolds are on, this thing is real close to going in. It's been a long road, I've learned a lot, and it feels good knowing that this is the final assembly.

One issue I did encounter is with the fan belt installation, it seems too small. 10 x 710....

Anybody know the correct size I need?

Click to view attachment

9.5x710 or 10x710 should be correct. Did you move any shims between the pulley halves yet?

My outer pulley half is a 96mm part. I have scoured to inter webs to figure out what larger size fan belt works with this set up. Why is this so tricky? I like the pulley I have, why isn't there an easy way to figure which larger belt fits?

On another note, I bought three cases of oil today along with two bottles of Lucas zinc additive. 20w 50 oil.

I'm getting serious now.

Figuring it out is easy as Pi