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That link type was the only way thing Icould get it to work.

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Upload to youtube.com

Time to educate Joey.....really he is not even close..... .
Great sound,crisp and cammy,whats the sound like @ driving RPM?.
I found even my stock (2in 1out) is fairly loud @ higher RPM,my neighbor up the road confirms that luckily he's are car guy .
Have you run your cams in yet?

seems like it sounds great but link has reached it's max download so no joy for me

Its good but short .

I gassed up the car, drove over to Catorse's house (Adam) and really put the car through it's paces.

It needs a bit of carburetor attention, but still, does it ever accelerate!!!

I'm really happy with where I'm at with it, even if it's off a bit. It gives me something to tinker with. I just hope I can get it reigned in for the fun day thing in Temecula next - next weekend.

I already have tuning plans for this weekend........

Best regards to Adam !....MSDS equipped Gen-2 928 racing headers on his rare 928 racer
Marty

Adam has some cool cars. That 928 is going to be a monster.....

The car is up and running, just not running perfectly. The devil is in the details. I may chance it and drive it to Temecula.

Issues:

Most of my gauges are not working at all or not working right, and I hate working under that dash

Carbs are farty and still a bit off, we played with them yesterday

Linkage is shit - hate it

I can't seem to find affordable air cleaners for the Webers

Kind of disappointed in a few things, but I'm moving forward. The tire shop really fuched up two of my beautiful wheels Saturday. It's going to cost her $500 to fix them.
When I'm driving the car and the engine is singing behind me, I'm okay.

Excellent Lawrence!

Singing behind you ...yep thats what its all about,carbs don't tune in a hurry ...ask me how I know ,if you have no spit back after the engine is warmed you are generally close,any popping @ the exhaust try screwing in the mixture screws slightly if your idle jets are right you will have a good result.
Post what jetting/vent size you have someone may chime in ...just don't run it too rich,again ask me how I know.
Do you have one of these;
Click to view attachment
And get yourself a PMO float bowl gauge real hand also;
Click to view attachment
Sure Keith will get on to it ,I'am on my 3rd carb tune and feel I'am closer to that sweet spot,good luck.

On the idle jets, we tried 60s and 55s, went back to 60s.

Float bowl levels are perfect, I will list tomorrow.

I have a 2.4 with 9.5, ported heads to 36mm and DC30 cams.

I put in a fair amount of work on the carb tuning using a wide band O2 sensor. Carbs completely rebuilt and blue printed. Car runs pretty consistently in the 12 to 13 AFR range pretty much everywhere. Can't remember the exact set up but includes 60 idles ,32 venturis, f26 tubes. Will look back at my records later today for the rest.

It still pops farts and snorts. Might be the nature of the beast with these cams and set up.

By the way, love it and it makes plenty of grunt. Smooth and clean down low, surprisingly torquey, with a good surge above 5000 rpm right up to 7200 redline. Nice!

Don't obsess so much - run it!

Oh yea, Not sure if your talking about the carb or shift lineage but I got a Weltmiester short shifter and Chris's shift kit with the extra rear console bearing - shifts pretty nicely once you are in the H. First to second still funky and just needs to be done slowly and deliberately, but no biggie. You know the drill. but I would say that Chris's setup is about as good as it gets.

Have fun man!

Paul Abbott recommends:-----------------------------------I have:

34 chokes-----------------------------------------------------34 chokes
145 mains-----------------------------------------------------135 mains
F3 emulsion---------------------------------------------------F26 emulsion
180 air correctors---------------------------------------------180 air correctors
55 idle jets-----------------------------------------------------55 and 60 idle jets (a set of each)

I have Webers, DC-30 cams, and 36mm intake bores......

Interesting... Bruce's book recommends the same thing except it recommends 145 air jets. And all the above was for a 2.7, not a 2.4.

34mm vents are probably a little too big with the DC-30's for street driving.. like ly not enough port velocity at low RPM, especally with the enlarged intake port. I wold go down to a 32, and mimic Bruce's jetting recommendations for a 2.4L with S cams.

Are Dc 30s s cams? Just curious

DC-30 = Mod Solex
DC-40 = Mod S

So basically it's a bit improved over a Solex cam...great for the street!

Can't wait to hear my 3.0 with DC40's and 40 Solex's run. Hoping for a month!

And hearing Larmo63 engine at Temecula for inspiration!

I just took out the idle jets to downsize to 55s, but discovered that I had 5 55s and one 60. So I stayed with the 60s for now. I fiddled some with the linkage, and what I did made a huge improvement in performance and the initial flat spot. I didn't have the linkage set up quite right per Rich Johnson's instructions. I fixed that today. I drove the car and it really REALLY is improving.

One note, I let the clutch cable out (loosened) a few turns, it seems like it clutches closer to the floor.

Was I supposed to tighten the cable? It goes against my thought process....

Tightening the cable reduces the freeplay which makes it engage and disengage closer to you versus the floor. I adjust for 1/2" freeplay

If you have the venturis and jets, I'd probably try 32's with 145 mains, 180 air, and 60 idle, and stick with the F3's. You'll give up a smidgen on the top end, but improve transition between idles and mains. Emulsion tubes can make more of a difference than a lot of guys realize, F26 or F11's could make a difference. Of course getting a bunch of jets, venturi, and e-tubes gets spendy. One tip here: change only 1 thing at a time or you'll have a difficult time dialing it in.

You don't want your clutch cable too loose, or you'll smoke the friction disc. Steve is on the money, get it down to 1/2 of free play, then you adjust the stop on the pedal board so when you stop, clutch, and shift to R it doesn't grind. It's kind of a PITA but you should only have to do it once.

If you want you can give me a call tomorrow Lawrence, I might be able to help a bit.

Back at you buddy!

I will see you at keiths place this afternoon / I will pick up spare Venturi's if you want to try them out.,.

We had the carbs off of the car and were taking them apart when Forrest showed up with the "do you want the good news or the bad news first?" comment. He brought 30 chokes, so we will try to source some 32s today. I put 55 idles in, car ran lousy on the way home. I'll put the 60s back in. Cause and effect.

Forrest and Keith

Click to view attachment

Sorry I forgot to check my carb specs. I do know the 55 idles just do not work. Tried that.

Definitely have 60's, 32, F26 in mine and I think 145 mains and 180 airs. Getting the 32 venturi's might be key to get the right velocities so all the jets/secondaries work right.

Getting the carbs right is like building a building - foundation must be sound or you are wasting your time. Start with good linkages (blueprinted), then right fuel pressure (3 psi), Then the right throttle plate height (once you get this do not change it!), then right float levels (blue printed floats). Then accel pump output, Then idles and venturis.

If you get all that then you tune using airs, mains and tubes. .....and then if you get all that right..... flat six nirvana!!

If you don't....... crap! It can be a serious PITA. Be patient and thorough. Performance Oriented tech docs are really good!!

Have you seen this jet page?
https://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs/Web...et_Settings.htm

Thanks for linking the jet chart, Steve. Those #s will come in handy for re-jetting some carbs for the 912 (1.7L big-bore) motors


Lawrence, do you have an AF meter there? I can bring a LM-2 kit yo the Temecula gig (if I can remember where I put it) ...

Maybe you should have subscribed to JET magazine

,good points made,I would add a good functioning ignition system and correct timing to that list.
So would it be safe to assume if the vents are changed to 32mm some of the low speed vacuum lost by the cams would be improved in this case ?,or are they simply just too large.
Perry pointed out this will decrease power @ the top end which makes perfect sense but that would be of benefit to the lower range you always drive in.
Correct throttle opening @ idle are hard to get right,I have found to achieve correct idle speed (950) I get ''run on'' and the engine takes a while to settle after the throttle is closed.
It is a saga to get all this right for sure .

The carbs just seem to idle really well no matter what we do. Idle has never been an issue.

On another note, I checked my speedo cable with a drill motor and flat bit, it worked fine. Culprit was a wonky angle drive. I had a good one on another transmission, so I cleaned it up and installed it. Works fine. Also, the wires on my oil pressure sender were reversed, so I now have a green oil pressure light. Small steps, but easy fixes. My tach and Tach-Adapt need some looking into now.

Had a chance to look back at my notes and confirm - 60 idles, 140 mains 32 venturis 180 airs 110 idle air bleeds. I worked a good bit with Paul Abbott when I was setting this up and he had just worked with another customer on a 2.4 Solex crammed motor with this same carb setup that made 195 HP on Jerry Woods Dino.

I agree with the idle thing, always seems pretty happy and I could not consistently get the expected lean best idle indications on all cylinders. Whatever. The AFR,s are really solid and it runs great, no hesitation or flat spots.

Have fun!

Larmo great you have a good idle,you must be close to the sweet spot ,your transition from idle jets to main should improve with the smaller vents with little loss of top end power,you may find you can go back to 55's but 60's seem to be the norm,slightly rich is always better with our engines besides.
I have a strange jet combination but less displacement,stock cams and Zeniths so you can get weird running condition cause they tune different than the Webers.
I have been faced with a constant rich condition on idle jets,going smaller has made my engine run like ,know I will get there .
I have enjoyed this input as this isn't generally covered on here a lot,we have a few "6" builds going on so it will help others.
Lawrence what tach are you running ? there are two types and they run on different voltage input,the earlier tach's require jumper removed from the adaptor,the later tach retains the jumper, contact Bob @ Ashlocktech...super helpful guy.

Keith914 is a trooper. He went to Aase Bros. in Anaheim and sourced a set of 32 chokes for my carburetors on his own volition to make my car run right.

We took the carbs off and apart (again,) installed the smaller chokes, then 60 idles, some tuning, and it runs a lot better. This is a pretty involved process, but I think it is good to be pretty intimately involved with your carburetors. You know, you lay awake at night contemplating your jetting and tweaks that you think of, right?

I overfilled the oil tank a bit and had a little flood of oil that we won't talk about.

All is good now. Car seems a lot more drivable and right.

I was told on the drives yesterday that my brake lights don't work. I'm trying to fix them; floor switch looks new (Bruce Stone did the pedal set) and there are two wires down there. One wasn't hooked up, I hooked it up and still no lights. I know this is a ground then off type switch, but does it matter which wire is hooked up to which spade on the brake light (by the pedal) switch? I have no idea how the wire was off the spade....

Help?

Might also be an adjustment. There is a goofy lever, washer, etc. that actuate the switch. Put an ohm meter on the switch to make sure it's good. It is most likely an adjustment since you replaced the pedals. I had the same problem with my rebuilt set from Bruce.
I bet we could fix it at the next cars and coffee in the parking lot. Let us know if you don't get it working by next Saturday and we will bring some tools.

No power to the switch with a test light and key on. Good fuse, everything else on the fuse works.

hmmmm

Lawrence,

Glad to hear your running and driving it. The rest is just punch list details. Enjoy!

The little beast did pretty well yesterday on the drives. I probably shouldn't have pushed the engine as hard as I did, but you only live once.

The punch list is shorter and shorter.....

That's just a switched ground wire. Was the ignition on when you tested for 12v? I would just test for continuity across the switch when activated to confirm the switch is good/bad. You can also install the switch incorrectly and it won't ever work. Ask me how I know. Eyeball it when you press on the pedal to see if it is opening and closing.

The diagram I have is for '70/'71 (four-bangers). One wire at the brake switch has constant 12 volt power from fuse #8, the other wire travels to the driver's side rear brake light socket, then daisy-chains to the passenger side socket. The brown wire(s) in the wiring socket go to a ground buss.

With the key on, no power at either wire that goes to the floor brake pedal switch. The #8 fuse is good and powered.

Check all your fuses to see iffin you got a blown one ...

If they're all OK, follow the wiring to see where it goes and if it's been disconnected

Does either one of the wires have continuity to ground? (if so, that one would more than likely be the wire going back to the brake light socket).

FYI. On the drive home in the fuel stop your brake light flicked on when your machine backfired. The again on second backfire. Bulb? Connection in light housing maybe. Cheers

After fiddling with my brake lights for a couple days, Perry just informed me that they only work with the key on.

My bad. One wire WAS disconnected from the pedal switch. I fixed it Sunday, but I guess I never tested it with the key on. (I thought I did)


Now, onto the Tach issue. With my immense automotive skillset, I should have it figured out in less than a week.

Drove the car to Temecula without a hitch, and drove it today up to Newport, getting a lot of thumbs ups.

Carbs are fairly dialed in now, Ethan is going to drive the car and tune them a bit also. I drove into the garage with a big shit-eatin' grin.

Such a great sound emanating from this engine!!!!!! Pete Stout was right!!!!

Lots told u that ,it is always a wonderful sound...few motors like it really,the power to weight is the key point in these small (light) cars.
Every drive I have it's the same , eating grin and then you fix a bit more stuff and it just gets better eh.
Well done Lawrence have a wine on me

Small-bore flat six with a sport muffler = one of the best Porsche sounds, period—and even better when the engine is closer to your ears than the muffler.

The only better-sounding 914 I've driven was a 2.2 w/MFI and a sport muffler. I immediately started pricing MFI...until I saw the price to acquire and set up a system.