I'm having a rear bearing type noise, and may be R&R-ing them. Normally, I'd pull the rear arms to do it on the bench, but have had a pricey alignment, and hate to re-do that. One possibility is to struggle with the R&R of the bearings with arms in place, the other is to attempt to mark the arm positions, and replace, once the bearing s are swapped. I'm questioning weather it's possible to replace with enough accuracy, to avoid a return to the alignment shop. Have any of you guy's gone this route?

Secondly, as the bearings seemed fine when I assembled the car, can the CV joints make a similar noise? I have the bigger 108mm CV's in and out, and did not re-build them, as they too seemed to look good inside, so just cleaned them, and used new grease. Thanks!

No need to pull the arms to remove bearings. You can press them out with a threaded rod & misc hardware + heat.

Certainly you want to make sure that is the issue first by looking at the CVs and that you don't have misaligned rear brake pads... etc.

As for installation, just put the new bearings in the freezer for a few days and heat up the arm with a torch. They should slip in. Sitting the bearings in crumbled dry ice in a cooler works faster than the freezer.

Pads are adjusted correctly. Other than looking for wear pattern on CV's, is there any other way of knowing if it could be them?

Does it sound like this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GOYLY6WeVWE

Nope, more like a ring and pinion whine, but I have had 2 different box's in the car, the last one a fresh Dr. Evil, with new gears and bearings, and have had the sound consistently, so feel it is more likely to be bearings, or CV's. Will jack her up tomorrow, and look for sound/wheel play, but all that seemed fine, while the noise was there. Thanks for the ideas!

Does the sound "move" or change pitch when cornering? Does it need to run a bit before you hear it or does it do this when first driven? Is the whine present or sound different in reverse? Did your front end get aligned at the time the rear was done?

My car had a full 4 corner alignment by a careful friend with a very accurate rack. It doesn't seem to have the "load, un-load" bearing sound you can provoke when cornering. I'll have to take her out tomorrow, and listen again. A The car has been a 2 year project, so it's been awhile since I drove it; At first, I thought I may be hearing more noises, as I deleted the firewall insulation, and just used the paint on sound stuff on the cabin side. I seems to be something there that I don't remember in past. Will try tomorrow for a better impression. Appreciate the ideas.

Here's how I did it without removing the trailing arms, and having to get an alignment.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...1596&st=280


12+ hours on track and a bunch of road miles, no problems.

First, the legal part.
I haven't done this myself but it sounds very logical to me.
The rear control arm can be removed without losing the alignment.
Choose a location on outer trailing arm mount where you can drill a hole (1/4")
straight up through the mount and the shims and into the mount surface on the body.
Now the arm can be removed and re-installed in the exact location using the same drilled shims and the drill bit turned around as a location pin.
This method was used by the factory on original 356 lids so they could be returned to proper gaps/location with little effort.

Paintedman, Rgalla: thanks, both helpful ideas.