This is the 2.0 liter that goes with the car I picked up.
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according to the seller the engine was rebuilt
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I have done very little at this point to determine if this is the case
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this is the extent I have gone to, look into the exhaust ports
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what kind of things should I look for to determine whether it was done and are there any indicators that signal if it was done correctly.
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Thanks again

Many of them have been rebuilt by now. if the seller had it rebuilt he aught to be able to tell you who did it and something about the rebuild. If it was rebuilt, it doesn't look to have been done recently, or the didn't clean it up very well as part of the rebuild. Lots of dirt and rusty bits.

Indicator to see if it was done 'correctly' is to see if it runs and for how long.

The Exhaust port has a clean guide,sootless.
So,rebuilt heads.
Pull the plugs,carefully,have a look-see into the four chambers,looking for condensate rust in the bores.
After recording the pix of the bores,inspect the piston crowns.
A proper valve job is lapped in,the seats are visible when each valve is opened.
The bottom end,the hot running clearances are determined by the cold machined spaces.
The head rebuilder and or assembler is the guy who can tell you if all is well.
Otherwise,a leap of faith is needed,or the pulling of the heads,cylinders and reciprocating weight.
A new set of rod bearings to replace those beaten by long duty,makes for less knock and more reliability.
Plenty of valve jobs have been passed off as 'rebuilt',if the rods get loose and heat up,kapow.
Delicate,lightweight ac engines,on the thin edge.Maintained properly,give good service.
Make it so.

/

Funny rebuilt but no flywheel or seal, hope that was covered.
Yep no soot in the exhaust.

Bolt up a yrans and starter and check the compression. If it was rebuilt i should have about 140 on all cylinders. Or ot coyld be in the "ran when parked "

I have seem cylinders and rings rust in place. Does seem suspicious to not have a flywheel seal. How could they set the end play?

Yes I know so many questions will have to crack it open to see what the innards look like.

The seller I bought it from bought the engine this way originally.

There appears to be fogging agent in it. No oil. Plugs valve guides for exhaust and intake appear new.

But little can be gleaned from that.

I did not have the time to remove the head but I did remove one of the Valve covers
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As you can see no sludge/ nice and clean. Valve springs and the surfaces inside the head have sticky substance on them, Maybe a fogging oil of some sort.
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Then I pulled the red caps out of the intake holes and this is what I found
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And while inventorying the parts I found the crank seal and shims
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Wondering what my next move is?

Oh and I did find these while going through all the parts
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But I am not finding the old crank bearings, wonder if they just replaced the cam bearings?

I say install the seal, flywheel and check endplay. Then do as Curt suggested and bench test the compression. If all checks out, fire her up and do a proper run-in, i.e. 20 minutes at 2000 rpms with break in oil. Change oil and filter and install!

First put some oil in cylinders and spin it over by hand a few times. Adj, all the valves and do a leak down test. Mount a flywheel and rock the flywheel back and fourth and left and right listen for anything funny, Dont be alarmed to feel a little play thats OK. A knock would be bad?

Report back. Good luck
I think it will run from the pixs,.

Thanks, I am going to try and get to it this weekend, I am a little disappointed in the way the engine looks.

I wish whomever had done the work they would have done a little more diligence in cleaning up the engine.

Is there anyway or anything that can shine up the cases and other exterior pieces?

Almost tempted to take it apart just to clean it up.