Has anyone use the high temp silicone valve cover gaskets from 914rubber.com? I can't remember if they need to be glued in or not. Anyone installed these lately?
Elliot

I tried using them last year and the ones I had were too big lengthwise to fit in the valve cover. They puckered up when lying in the cover, and then when you put them against the head they puckered inward off of the sealing surface. My car looked like I'd dropped a James Bond style smoke screen by the time I got to the first stop sign, so much oil had leaked onto the exhaust.
I think if they were a tad smaller they'd be ok, but I couldn't get them to not leak. I did use sealant against the valve cover, btw. Their desire to pucker outward overpowered it.

I swapped em out for 914rubber's cork gaskets and haven't had a drop come out. Maybe I had a bad pair. I dunno. But I'm sticking with cork.

Just get some rtv and glue down your old ones....they will be fine

I've heard of this before. Have any of you tried this?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...alve_covers.htm

I did it it with cork VC gaskets, but it seems particularly important with the silicone versions. If it were me, I would still glue the silicone into the valve cover itself, then lightly grease the other side (towards the head) and it should be reusable and reliable.

Yes, but I just do several tabs, works just as good.

I haven't tried it on the T4, but me no likey the /6 sillycone gaskets.

Honestly, I got so used to nothing but the gasket for so many years, that is all I do.
I am too lazy to clean the valve cover each oil change, so i spend the time to get it on square and sealed...
If it's not on right, you know in a minute or two.

Thanks everyone. I like the Pelican Parts fix. I might give that a try but I'll probably stick with the cork gaskets till after WCR.

I have ammended Ellyuts tech article at the bird board. Because extra red is always advised.

I don't have a tech article.

Keep believing that.

About 38 years ago, I started using Gasacinch to "glue" the cork gasket to the valve cover and then a thin layer of Swepco 101 grease on the gasket surface that goes against the head. Started with VW type 1's but continued it with 914's when I started working on them.
The Gasacinch holds and seals the gasket to the valve cover and the grease allows the cover to move around a bit and get seated well, it also keep the gasket from sticking to the head and tearing or chipping when removed.
This way cork gaskets can be used over several times and when they are replaced cleaning the valve cover it pretty easy and the head usually just needs to be wiped with a rag.

I have done tabs on the valve covers for "race" engines but not very many.

I have not tried the silicon gaskets by 914rubber or any others.

Jim

Gasagacinch: http://gasgacinch.com/

I seem to be the only one who's had success.

I installed silicone valve cover gaskets when I installed the turbo on my 1.7. Been running them ever since. I suspect that the key, like anything glued, is proper prep. Clean and degrease with a product that doesn't leave a residue. Most degreasers don't fit this description. I use a Wax & Grease remove made for pre-paint-prep (after the bulk of the oil is cleaned off). Then just standard RTV.

They've never dripped a drop.

The silicone gaskets are the same size as the cork. We actually make both slight thicker than OEM to compensate "bale creep"(the tendency for the bale to loose pressure over time).
McMark has it right the key is in the prep. Oily silicone can be displaced easily, and is hard to wrangle into place.
Just remember that if you decide you don't want to put the effort in, or even change your mind we will accept returns.
Thanks
Mark