I know the L-Jet resistor packs are NLA, and while getting my parts ready for refitting the FI on the car I noticed this. I attempted to solder the wire back on to the resistor with no luck, but I'll admit, my solder gun (and solder skills) suck.

I thought when I talked to Clay awhile back he said that tesistor packs from other cars could be used but that the plug end was singular to the 914.

So is there a pack I can get, pull the wires from the plug and put into the 914 plug? Should I attempt to find someone who can solder and have them attempt to repair? Or should I just look for a used one in the classifieds?

I would ask Clay but haven't been able to get in touch with him. I thought he was going on a 914 outing this week (Talemina?).

Send it to me, I'll solder it for you

As always, Tim is one of the best member here that really help! Thanks again Tim!

Thanks Tim. I'll take you up on that. I'll PM you.

I couldn't solder for sh#t myself ,built a conversion loom for a Golf GTI CIS to Digifant you learn fast...once mastered you wonder why its so hard but its takes a while.
Remember everything needs to be clean,contacts and wire,good quality hot iron (Weller are good),good solder and a steady hand and go for it.

My iron is a Weller, but it's the old 'gun' type. I think I could do better with something like a 'pencil' type of iron, but at this point just need the pack fixed. But I understand...it's a skill I think I could acquire, just not at the moment!

I have spares.......

And you can find the resistor packs from any mid 80s Nissan or Toyota. They uses a licensed, Nippondenso built version of the Bosch L-Jet. My 87 Pulsar has one on it.


The plug on the end of the wires will be wrong, but you can buy new spade connectors and reuse the plug housing.

....And resistors are just resistors! Figure out what the resistance of the stock one is, then use math (ooooh!) to figure out what power rating it needs, and get four of them at an electronics supply shop. Rat Shack is still out there, but there are local places and there is always ordering on-line.

--DD

As my old drill instructor used to say, it sounds like you just volunteered!

all kidding aside, your idea will ultimately be the way to go when the known good used units are gone. But I think the resistor/resistors on this unit are fine. No sense in reinventing the wheel fitting new resistors to the current housing or building a new housing. That sounds even more involved than just having the old unit wires soldered.

I'm just deflecting because my electrical skills are only slightly...very slightly, better than my soldering skills!

I measure 6.2 Ohm. Using 14 volts as a reference, I get 32 watts required. I would use a 50 watt chassis mount resistor. Mouser electronics has them for about 4 to 8 each.

Mouser electronics

6.2 ohm doesn't sound right for the injector, I'd expect closer to 3 ohms.
Or do you mean the resistor?
You don't want much more than 1 AMP going through the board.

You are using 2 resistors so 20w (each) should be OK.

I think this is the correct math, I'm I right ?
13.2v/(X+ injector ohm)=AMP

It takes a lot of watts to get the resistor hot enough for solder to stick, it's mounted in a heat sink after all.

I wouldn't think a pencil would do at all for that job.

Main thing is to clean really well, and make a strong mechanical connection before soldering. (Said so in the boy scout soldering manual!)

Oh, wait, cold beer is a good way to cool off the burnt fingers you will inevitably get if you drink and solder...

6.2 is the resistor not the injector. This is what I measured on a pack I have here. I based my calculations on an injector getting shorted to calculate the wattage.

Parallel resistors will double the wattage but half the resistance. No need to do this. The link to Mouser has reasonable prices to make a new pack and it would look neater than doubling up on components. Overall I think it will make a smaller pack.

Are you saying use one resistor?

My SDS uses a pair resistors for low impedance injectors, so does OE, I think about every pack I've seen does.
There has to be a reason for this, companies don't waste money if they don't have to.

Funny you should mention a strong mechanical connection and clean surfaces first. That may be tough to do. The end of the resistor is a solid piece of metal (and of course dirty). The end of the wire that attaches to it is twisted copper, so a mechanical connection may be tough.

If you look at the pictures above you may be able to make out that one of the connections was repaired in the past. It looks like some type of epoxy was used (maybe in addition to a soldered joint) in that repair.

And for Mark and Bartlett, there are four resistors in the pack. One for each injector. My crappy picture just makes it look like two.

IIRC, the L-jet setup uses four resistors, one for each injector power wire.

--DD

You remember right.

And you can pick up the Japanese versions of the resistor packs for less than 5 bucks at a wrecking yard. And the Japanese versions don't break the wires inside the the Bosch ones.