We got this car about a month or so ago. Been trying to get it road worthy as it's been sitting in a garage for 8 yrs. Very little rust on it, just at the jack points on channels but not much. Floors are in great shape as well as the battery tray.
But the gas(over 2 gallons) was extremely bad. So we're in the process of replacing plugs, points, condenser, plug wires and cleaning the injectors(original Djet). So hopefully we're get it going this week.
We wanted to convert to a Subie with auto tranny, but that will have to wait for funding to do this. Anyway, it's a looker. Cant wait to see how it runs.

Also, having an issue with the rear deck lid. Previous owner had it off and I cant get it closed now. Any suggestions on how to adjust it so it will close. The front hood is hard to close(latch) down. Not sure if it will stay latched on the road as it doesnt take much for it to pop up(latched but up). If anyone has any suggestions, please feel free to offer.

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Looks like a nice car. Are you talking about the engine lid (I see it's up) or the rear trunk, which seems to be closed properly? The engine lid has only 1 latch and it is adjustable. You just may have to play with it a bit. The same goes for the front trunk, the latch moves up and down. Make sure your handles (pulls) move freely.

nice looking car Welcome

In the case of the front trunk, sometimes friction in the system does not allow the latching mechanism to reset. Pushing the Pull handle back in may help the latch to reset.

Also what can happen in both cases i(but particularly on the engine lid) is the latching mechanisms can be mis-aligned (usually the striker pin on the lid). It is then possible that as the lid is closed it hits the locking clasp and closes it before it catches the pin. The pin is then locked out of the clasp. That pin is a simple steel rod bent at a 90. It is fully adjustable for engagement depth and rotational position. Also the lid itself is a bit flimsy. If tweeted while it was out, the latch mechanism can easily be mis-aligned.

In general. Check both systems for alignment, adjustment and free motion (lubricate).

They are both pretty simple. Good luck

Tennessee man:
Welcome to the brotherhood of rust and love... and Great looking black teener:
Go to members info when you can and add your car to the VIN database:
VIN, chassis number, paint code, engine #, and build date.

Tom
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Nice car!

also, procedurally check first that each lid is properly aligned to the adjacent body panels / then apply good advice offered previously. Consider shooting a blast of WD40 into the cable tubes on both as they can be the source of tough pulls.

sweet looking teener..

Thank you everyone for your advice. It is duly noted.

We got the plugs changed before and the plug wires changed today(in the rain and cold). Was going to change the points and condenser but once we lifted the distributor cap, we found a pleasant surprise. Electronic ignition(fairly new) had been added. So we cleaned the contact points on the cap, snapped it back on and check for fire. GOOD orange fire. Oh, it has the Blue coil. So, we got fire. Still wont start. We did notice, quite heavily, more bad gas smell. So now we're going to have to pull the injectors and try to clean them out. Nothing else it could be now. So as soon as this cold spell(Blackberry winter) is over, we'll start to do that.
We tried to change the fuel filter today also but couldnt find it. Then I read it's below the tank on passenger side, under the car(stock). I hope it's there.

Again, thank you everyone for your advice and comments. We appreciate them.
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