Hello All

I recently diagnosed a clacking sound from my passenger side cv joint.

My plan was to buy a rebuilt axle unit from NAPA this spring and swap it out.

Come to find that their source is not re-building them any more.

So I located/bought 2 of these:



Bought these:



Tried to break Castle Nut loose with breaker bar and heat (MAP)- Home made penetrating oil 50/50 ATF and Acetone- PB Blaster-.



Try as I might I could not get good leverage on the castle nut.



So I went from the CV boot side and loosened the 4 bolts holding the axle to the stub shaft/Hub

Success!



Any Ideas on how to break loose the castle nut?

Was hoping to sell off the components to re-coup some cost.

I have already removed the rear brake calipers and was hoping to remove the hubs as well.

Going to follow this video to rebuild them:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LsytyVzokBg

Hope they are in good shape.


Thanks

Take them down to any local wheel/tire place and have them use their largest impact gun on it. You're looking at likely 400+ ft-lbs holding some of these hub nuts on after all the rust and corrosion they've seen. I gave the local guy 10 bucks to do it - made him happy, made me happy.

Agree that the impact wrench is the weapon of choice. Even my cheepee HF one made quick work of the castle nuts.

FYI...new OEM CV/axle units are available directly from Porsche, made in Germany for about 250 per side. Not sure if that works in your budget, but it's hard to beat new.

You will be victorious over those nuts. Try also letting the penetrating oil do its thing for a few days.

I bought a rear suspension like yours and to remove the castle nut I mounted a tire on the hub to get more leverage.

You could also use a dremel tool with cut off wheel to weaken the nut. You don't have to cut all the way through it thus minimizing potential damage to the spline.

This took mine off in seconds.

Click to view attachment

Do you need the stub axles? if not unbolt the CV bolts and try to remove the axles from the stub axles. May be difficult as the roll pins hold it on.
You will need an impact and a way to hold the axle solidly. I bought a 3/4" air impact just to remove the tough ones. Even it does not easily work sometimes.
I use a section of 9/16 chain with the end links swashed to become more round allowing a 14mm lug bolt to go into the hole. Attach the chain to a lug nut in the hub. Either wrap the chain around the trailing arm or bolt the other end to a caliper mount hole. Rotate the axle until the chain is tight.
I have had ones that were rusted so tight that cutting them was the only way to remove them. I have cut the nut with a thin blade in a 4" angle grinder. Cut straight in from the end cutting through the stub axle. You can use your old stub axles. I have also had the stub axle seize in the hub where it would not come out. Those do not look that rusty. After you get the nuts off ( no pun intended) put them on backwards and use a big hammer and punch if you are trying to save the stud axle and nuts, If not, wail on it with a hammer and drive them out.
Lots of rust penetrant and heat help. Takes an oxy-Actelelene to get enough heat to do the job. I have use a Mapp gas torch repeatedly heating, cooling and soaking for several days.

I got mine off with everything still installed in the car, wheel on the ground and jumping on my 24" breaker bar. No rust on mine however.

Thanks for all the advice

Yes normally I would have the joint attached to the car and stand on my breaker bar.

I have a neighbor who stopped by and offered his impact gun.

He said I could borrow it to remove not only the nut but the shocks as well.

Hope it works.

Also can anyone advise me on if I need a gasket on the ends of the CV's

The one I took off did not have one

Thanks everyone!

Mike

OK MAde some progress

I managed to remove the clip and take off the CV joint

Do you think this is normal wear?





I saw no pitting and there is no play when reversing torque on the axle

Hope this is normal

Thanks

Where would you order these? Got a part number?

looks great, I would re-install those in a minute; the ones you know are trashed are when you when see galling in any of those valleys. Also I would install them so that if the CV was outboard, I would reinstall that side inboard (transaxle) to get even wear.

Part number is 91433200903. I got mine from Jim Ellis Porsche, but I assume any Porsche dealership could get them.

Here's a fun little video unboxing them...

http://youtu.be/3DGaHp-OAKo

All this trouble for used CV joints, you should have gone to PMB Performance, New with boots and grease for $75 each.

Thanks for the part number

While removing the CV joints I had a hard time getting them off the drive-shaft.

I'm hoping reinstalling them wont be as hard.

If so I may buy a new axle.

I have enough to rebuild 1 axle

I broke 1 of the races on a CV trying to remove it.

You are right

After all the labor I did not save a thing

But I learned a lot and may buy the PMB units anyway

Any Ideas on how to get the re-built Cv joint onto the shaft would be great

Thanks

Mike

It should just slide on. What is the issue? Clean the splines on the axle shaft well. Hold the axle in a vise for more control.

Dude...that's totally the right attitude! I agree...It's all about learning (and causing as little damage as possible in the process).

My (unsolicited) advice is to bite the bullet and go new. Forking over 500 bucks is never fun, but it's cheap insurance against getting stranded and more busted knuckles.

I agree it should slide on

I had to beat the back of the CV to get it off the axle

I will try to clean the splines and push it on

I have that Impact as well. No more need for pneumatic in my garage.

Yes, If I'm having trouble getting the re-builts on I will simply order new

Not worth the effort

Now that i know you can buy them new, should have gone that route first

Well I finally got the castel nurs off of the old stub shafts

My neighbor helped me clamp them in a vise and with a 4' breaker bar we finally got them broke loose.

Rebuilt a new CV axle and swapped it out today.

Clacking gone !

I think I fixed it

Im going to drive it a couple of more times and re-tighten the bolts

Thanks for all of the advice

.

Congrats! There's nothing more satisfying than outsmarting these problems. Perseverance wins. Enjoy!