-ok have a 1975 914 1.8l, really like the car and have continued to work on it to make it nicer and drive it, REALLY don't like the lack of power

-so doing a 2.7l upgrade, looking for some suggestions

-please comment on any or all that you have knowledge or opinion on

KNOWNS:
-1974 2.7 (not "S")
-will do complete rebuild
-have Weber 40IDA carbs (yes I want to run carbs)
-looking for more fun street car, not a track car at all

LOOKING FOR INPUT:
-will I be happy with just a stock type rebuild getting 140hp or so?
-don't think I want "S" camshafts, apears in a 2.7 their curve has them come alive way to high for my type of street use
-will be doing new pistons/cylinders, what compression? (don't really want to get into dual plugs)
-flywheel choices don't seem great, a new OEM (most likely offshore low grade steel), or a Patrick which seems high quality but only comes lightened so about 1/2 the weight, not what I think what I want for the street


PLEASE ADD ANYTHING ELSE YOU THINK I SHOULD BE CONSIDERING[u]

thanks,

Steve

I've driven a 2.7 and thought it was great; fun, quick and that great sound....

Try Kennedy Engineered Products for a flywheel and clutch set up. They'll do any weight you want.

My last conversion was a 2.7 with carbs and it was lots of fun.

Let me know when your ready for the oil tank related parts as I build those and PMB and 914rubber carry them

for street do you think I would want std or lightened flywheel?

will do, most likely this fall, don't want to lose my summer driving time

Since you are not keeping the CIS and doing a full rebuild you have some choices to make for P&C's and Cams. It will come down to cost and expectations. I think 180hp is what I would shoot for without going nuts.

Wndsnd is doing this conversion right now so he may be able to advise on parts, oil tanks, motor mounts and engine issues.

I love the idea of the 6 conversion but think it'll be A LOT of work and A LOT more $$$ than a nice big 4. The big 4 is lighter and probably an easier job while still being able to achieve the 140 HP mark.

Don't get me wrong, I have been contemplating the same project, but not with a 2.7. I could be wrong but I think I've read about a common problem with the 2.7 case stud.

If doing a 6 conversion, I'd probably try to get more power to make it worth all the expense and work. That's all.

My 2.7 rebuild cost 25K for the best stuff, yet nothing really ridiculous. Machining alone (Walt, Competition Engineering) is $7800 including heads. The mag cased 2.7 motors really need much more work than the aluminum counterparts.

Oh, and I am building the engine myself. That's just parts, my friend.

BRING YOUR WALLET!

All that does add up to a lot of money for a 140 hp. If you're doing it for fun and money is not an object then cost is irrelevant.

I agree with JoeProper...a 6 conversion needs to be worth the time and expense. I'd get a bigger motor IMHO. My six is around 200 hp and I'm pretty happy with it for street driving but everybody has a different opinion on horsepower.

I agree,

You can buy a nice SC for what it costs to rebuild the 2.7 correctly, and convert everything to a 914 inststall.

If you really want to go there we can help you source parts, and I can tell you the mistakes I have made so far

yes doing it for the fun of it, plan on doing most things my self, money doesn't scare me off, I've researched and see this is pricey (not my dumbest project yet I don't think, I'll confirm when I'm done), don't need gobs of HP, maybe do need 200 though, that is why I put this out there, I know you guys would know

-please keep commenting

Weber 40's are a good choice, I like the Solex cams, or the GE 40 version, if I remember correctly. I had a 2.7, and a 3.0 with that cam, and it pulled like a rocket from idle to 7300. Lot's of torque. I am a fan of light flywheels, which also give that "explosive" feel. However, after looking at the $$$ to do this all over again, (25 years after the last one), I opted for the V-6 Honda. 250HP, and Ft. Lbs. and a complete engine, with ECU for $1300. Some assembly required, but that's the best part for me. Have fun!

My 2.7 will easily put out 200 wheel horsepower or 225 at the crank. It's 9.5:1 compression, custom cams, boat tailed case, knife edge crank, Weber 40 IDA.

Already got the 2.7 and carbs, why even consider a "stockish" rebuild. You are already spending the bucks and ditching the CIS.

I suggest the Mod Solex cams, try to reuse the cylinders (measure carefully and Nikasils may be reusable) and go JE pistons at 9.2 - 9.5 compression (93 pump gas with single plug will be fine).

New head studs and full boat on the case and heads (yea figure around $6500.00 - 7000.00 for that).

With decent jetting that should get you 200 RWHP and lots of torque. Very entertaining street motor for little more than a stock rebuild. Don't think the flywheel selection is real critical on this combo.

Recently built my first one - 2.4 making probably 180 RWHP. It was fun, lots of time involved and a few mistakes along the way....... but big fun to drive.

Okay.. the 27K parts and machining made me poop my pants... until you explained it was not back to stock.....

OK, so I know you want 200 HP and carbs....that should be attainable. I guess it depends upon what you want to do with it regularly. If it's going to be a street racer/AutoX car, you should be cool.

If you are like me (I hope not for your sake) then once it is built, all I want to do is minor stuff, maintenance, and driving. I do not want to revisit the carbs every month to balance and clean out the jets, etc.

If I was sticking with carbs I would have kept the 3.0 in my car. (Scotty B. has it......) Look for a clean 3.0 motor and just go with mild cams and a good exhaust system and you are where you want to be w/o going extreme on anything. 3.0 motors are great engines.

Sadly, (for my wallet) I wanted to go with fuel injection so I opted for an essentially almost stock '87 3.2 and had it fully disassembled and then built by Bruce Abbott who came highly recommended. We did not go crazy, we did what it needed and of course, rings, bearings, seals, complete valve job with new valves/guides, 964 cams, stock 3.2 piston/cylinders. We are going with my stock heat exchangers and stock-ish muffler and of course a Steve Wong custom chip for the 964 cams and 91 octane gas. I think we should end up around 220 HP, so double the stock Six motor. I really do not need anything more than that at my age.

Good luck. Oh, not sure what Scotty has planned for my 3.0 (his now) I know he was talking about putting it in one of his cars. You never know, it may be available. Worth a call or PM.

Scotty's 3.0....maybe when he gets shop help and can work on his cars
I'd guess he'll twin plug it (friend has fixture) and go funfunfun

Re: 2.7, I have a '74 block CIS with a good set of carbs and SC gring cams.
IF all is healthy with the engine as-is, a cam swap and the associated stuff that goes with that (gaskets etc) you should be around 190hp with msds headers.
My fingers are crossed it doesn't need a full case-up rebuild. If it does I may look for the Cairo or Scotty style engines.

I'm building a '69E 2.0 mag case engine. 91 pistons/cylinders, PMOs, cams re-ground, boat tailed, 3.0 oil pump, lots of head work & scientific balancing. Lightened six hole flywheel. A bit more old school with a lot of tricks, but still hope for 180+ HP. We'll see.

Magnesium cases are a lot lighter than aluminum ones.

I ran a stock 81' 3.0 with DC19 cams, weber 40 IDA's and 1 1/2" headers. Couldn't go any larger on the cams as they would hit the stock fi pistons. This motor was a blast, great power and torq.

I rebuilt it into a 3.2 with DC40 (modS) cams, 9.5:1 JE pistons, 78' large port heads and 1 5/8" headers. Basically took advantage of the carbs with a carb cam and let it breath better. The carb cams really help bring the motor alive. It's a monster now, much more topend. I guess the moral of the story is if you can replace the pistons and go for a carb cam its worth it.

Also with these cars being light and short gear boxes IMHO I wouldn't worry about going to small on the cam, its alot of fun to open them up and get them screaming. I'd plan on a redline (6500, 7000, 7500?) and build for the engine for that (valve terrain, crank, cam, rods, etc...).

I am building a similar engine for my 68 911 hot rod. The goal is to try to use up the 30 year collection of parts in my attic. I am starting with a 75 2.7S that broke a valve with under 60,000 that has never been apart before. I am using 2.7 RS P&Cs at 8.5/1, 911 L cams, 40 IDS carbs. I am expecting about 200HP. I am building the engine myself so if it pulls a stud later on or some other failure, I'll deal with it. If I was building the engine for a customer, I would go whole hog on the case and head work because I don't want to see it come back but for me, I'll risk it. 2.7s respond well to pistons, cams and carbs and are an amazingly fun, light engine. I agree that the 3.0 and 3.2 are much better, sturdy engines that can make amazing HP.

I had a 3.2 twin plugged, GE80 cammed, 46Weber, 320 HP motor in my 1980 SC track car that was a marvel. Just changed the oil, nothing else.

Ask yourself, how much are you going to use it. Here in Vermont, the driving season is about 3 or months long. If I put a couple of thousand miles on it a year, it will be a lot.

Food for thought.

Charlie

I've done a type 4 2414cc (4) and a 2.7 race engine in different cars.

I think the trick and most cost effective (per hp) swap is a 996 - 3.6. The initial price might look high, but you'll have something that will keep you happy. And it's aircooled.

There is a 73,000 mile 3.6 on ebay right now for $8k <http://www.ebay.com/bhp/porsche-996-engine>.

Any of the smaller 6 cylinder motors from Porsche will cost big money any time you touch them, which of course you'll end up doing, so look at what the entire conversion will cost.

great input, thanks all, I'll try to give many answers in this reply to not bore everyone

-yes thinking carb cams will get me there, going just street drive, 5k-6k miles a year

-I still worry about a 6k screaming rpm, don't want to have to open it up that much, will I have enough low end torque?

-can't do headers, I need defrost, being in Michigan we have great spring and fall days, but they start out cold and need the defrost to be safe and I'm too old to drive with my head out the window

-I'll snap some pictures tomorrow of something interesting on the 2.7

6K RPM? My redline is now 7K. Fun times!

You're thinking 993. 996 is watercooled. 993 is the last generation of the air-cooled and no way in hell will you find a 73k mile 993 engine for 8k.

I think stock redline is 6500? These cars are so light you don't need much torq on a 2.7 for the street.

I used to have a CIS 2.7 in my car with 150hp and that was fun, wish the topend would have opened up with that motor (more hp). It had a problem with the CIS and would cut-out around 5500 rpms. It was enough to get me hooked I guess.

As for defrost is there an option to do an electric defrost heater? I was thinking about that in my car. I don't have heat, but in Cali you hardly need it.

the smaller stock exhaust will not hurt a 2.7. smaller headers keep gas velocities high and with carbs, good cams, enough timingadvance and good ports it will pull cleanly to 7000 with great sound. i suspect a good 2.4 makes about 160 ft lbs and the 2,7 will be more. 160 ft lbs is plenty in these light cars with 901 stock gearing.

big fun

dumping the cis is huge as that is what makes the stock 2.7 feel and sound lethargic imho.

u may need more oil cooling than the stock cooler can provide. it appears that there are acceptable results out there using the coolers mounted above the half shafts. that would be my choice if necessary.

I ran a 74 2.7S US motor for over 10 years with a stock six 2.0 flywheel, 40mm webers with 1 5/8"s MSDS headers. Car ran awesome and was a blast to drive until it started pulling head studs. It was cheaper to buy a used 3.2 versus over hauling the 2.7