I am looking for a resource to weld and retap one of my spark-plug holes / as a failed Time Cert and plug blew out of the head taking the threads with it.......

Unfortunately, the builder of the short-block didn't mention this patch-repair to me prior to contracting the build and apparently, after much research, it appears to be the largest big cert that was installed and blew.

I have used Competition Engineering on my 356SC engines some years back so that is one source for head work as an option. Maybe there are others closer to me in SoCal without such a backlog of head-jobs on their agenda... who knows???

thanks



Sidebar: Conversely, if someone has a good head with 41mm intake (four stud 1.7 or 1.8) and 34mm exhaust valves, i could be an instant buyer...

Very very sorry to hear it . Believe it or not, my heads were welded by the local FLAPS manager. He uses helicoils as standard and they have held up so far. Just knocked on wood. I have now done enough welding to think I could probably do one myself. That is for myself to blow up, not as in to ruin someone else's car. My point being it isn't that unusual a skill. My guy said that the old German alloy is much easier than the Japanese newer stuff. Probably means simpler metallurgy . Often people suggest Harley shops.
Get it fixed so you can enjoy the cruise, although for you the seasonal window is open wide. Ours is half over.

I have welded many heads that not an issue for you i would think retapping the hole would be the biggest issue.

European motor works...
http://www.europeanmotorworks.com

They have a machine shop and a guy who welds.

You might need to call and talk them into it...

FAT Performance 714 637 2889. I think they charge $80 to weld and retap a spark plug hole. I have a set of heads in there now getting some work.
Bruce

George at European would be my go to Forrest

Thanks to all for the resources and efforts to respond. Norm at Mesa West found a reconditioned same-valve size head on a shelf and offered it to me for 275 + mine as a core..... Has anyone ever removed a right side head with the engine in the car??

I assume the tin is the beeOch to remove in order to get access to the upper studs... then, of course, is there room to slide it sideways off the engine case???

Otherwise, its engine out time......

Greg at Fat Performance says no way to remove the head in the car.. .... That said, they charge around the 80 mark if it is only a reweld and tap situation / but he wants to look for other issues....... here we go!

You'll waste more time & brain cells trying to work around than the time & sanity saved by dropping the drive train. Just saying.............

It can be done if you have no other way to deal with it.

Remove front tin
Remove intake (everything)
Remove all the to screws to th head tin
Start pulling...and involving, and unscrewing

Eventually you will get the tin off.

The. You need to remove the lower tin, heating and exhaust.

Then head bolts.

Rich

Plus there is always "Well now that the powerplant is out........."

Good Luck with the repair!

But it's not exactly like dropping a 914 engine is a nightmare... I'm sure that in the long run it will be easier to yank the engine out and deal with it when the rest of the car isn't in the way.

--DD

If you drop the engine, I'll volunteer to help.