I've read everything about doing a valve job but my question is as follows - I'm lying under the car looking up at the valve adjustment screws for cylinder #1 which valve is which ? the one futherest to rear of the car is that the intake ? or the exhaust. and then for cylinder #2 is what the order....

FYI I'm lying across the underside of the car with my head up against the drivers tire looking straight up at the cylinder back...

They are so far out of adjustment I can't tell by placing a feeler guage under the tip...


Please help....

Intakes in the middle. Exhaust on the front and rear. Are you at TDC on #1 compression stroke?

#1 TDC - I have the mark on top of the flywheel in line with the case halves...rotor is in the right place..same mark I used to install the new Dizzy las weekend...

I shoul dbe able to adjsut #1 and #3 as the same time...then rotate the flywheel mark 180 and do the other tow cylinders right....

I'm using .006 and .008 for settings....

Rotor should be pointing towards the #1 plug wire on the diz cap.

No. You don't do 1 & 3 at the same time. With the flywheel notch at the top of the motor, make a mark with some white out or fingernail polish on the flywheel thru the hole in the bottom. Adjust #1. Rotate flywheel 180 degrees (notch at bottom). rotor will be pointing at 2 or 4. adjust that one, then do it two more times.

Oh yeah, the mark 180 from the notch is so you can see when 1 & 3 is at tdc from the hole in the bottom.

I have a fairly long article compiled by Jim Thorusen of Rennlist, and slightly edited by me. DDD has also contributed. It describes what is by far the easiest system for adjusting valves you'll ever see. You don't have to know which cylinder you're "on". In fact, the distributor doesn't even have to be installed! You don't have to look at anything but the rocker arms (or cam lobes, in an OHC engine. No climbing out from under the car. I've used it for over 30 years, on all kinds of cars. I will be happy to send it to anyone who asks for it. The Cap'n

Sounds like you got it, but I think that the general consensus for valve clearance is to adjust both the exhaust and intake to .006", even on the 2.0L.

There's more than one way to skin a cat....(but that's a different topic all together ), but the first time I did the "adjustment", I used the following article:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...alve_adjust.htm

Very helpful, and lots of pics!

Good Luck!!

QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Apr 5 2005, 05:15 PM)

I have a fairly long article compiled by Jim Thorusen of Rennlist, and slightly edited by me. DDD has also contributed. It describes what is by far the easiest system for adjusting valves you'll ever see. You don't have to know which cylinder you're "on". In fact, the distributor doesn't even have to be installed! You don't have to look at anything but the rocker arms (or cam lobes, in an OHC engine. No climbing out from under the car. I've used it for over 30 years, on all kinds of cars. I will be happy to send it to anyone who asks for it. The Cap'n

Does this method have anything to do with using "chopsticks"?

Hell yes! PM me that procedure Cap'n!

Cap'n, I do it that way too, but, it may be better for a first timer to go with the basics rather than screw up his engine by adjusting valves when they are open?

I adjust all mine at .005 on a 2L. I hate clattering valves.

QUOTE (vsg914 @ Apr 5 2005, 05:23 PM)

Cap'n, I do it that way too, but, it may be better for a first timer to go with the basics rather than screw up his engine by adjusting valves when they are open? I adjust all mine at .005 on a 2L. I hate clattering valves.

"When they're open"? It appears youre not all that familiar with the technique! You adjust them when they're CLOSED. As as far as that goes, loose valves are bad, too. Not as bad as tight valves (like those set at .005", but bad. You get accelerated stem wear and pitting. My system is FAR simpler than the one in the book or on Pelican, and the biggest drawback is having to UNLEARN all that bad thinking, as well as the disbelief you experience when you look at how easy valve adjusting really is. The Cap'n

I gotta see this 'cedure Kap'n ... please post for all!!!

when one cylinders exhaust valve is open, you go to the exhaust valve that corellates to the same lobe on the cam on the other side of the motor, and adjust that one.....
same with intakes...

repaeat for all 8 valves

QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Apr 6 2005, 12:00 PM)

"When they're open"? It appears youre not all that familiar with the technique! You adjust them when they're CLOSED.

Well no shit? I think you misread what I wrote. I said "if" he adjust them when they are open, he could screw things up.

Why don ya post your method for all to see? If its not the way I was taught also, I'll damn sure say so. Besides, I'm always thankful for any shortcuts.

Hey Cap'n.... maybe you can send that to one of the admins and they can put it in the tech section. Sounds like it would be a good method for those of us that hate getting out from underneath the car constantly.

QUOTE

I adjust all mine at .005 on a 2L. I hate clattering valves

Its better to hear'em clatter than watch it scatter...

Tight valves are a killer of these engines. With stock pushrods the hotter the engine gets the LESS clearance the valves operate at..


A tight valve is a hot valve- the valve cools when it touches the seat..

Hot valves become burned valves

Burned valves become dropped valves

Dropped valves destroy an engine with no prior warning, no symptoms at all... Just the sound of a shotgun behind your head and the brisk opening of the wallet..

In my engine rebuild video I show the easiest way I know for adjusting valves clearly.