My 76 914 has been off the road for a couple of years, but I finally got it registered and started driving it again. But one of the barkes appears to be dragging a little, I'm not sure yet if its just one or both, I *think* its the rears but I'm not sure yet until later today I am gonna jack it up and check it out. I was just wondering if this is something common that happens and where I should look first to figure out what the problem is.

Did ya have the e brake on while it was down?

If you have rubber brake lines, they may have swollen shut. Start off with a good bleed job all around and see if that helps, if your lines are rubber, they are probably due for replacement anyhows..

QUOTE (vsg914 @ Apr 6 2005, 09:47 AM)

Did ya have the e brake on while it was down?

I didn't have the ebarke on while I was driving it and noticed the dragging, but the ebrake was on while it was stored.

There is the first place to look. Maybe it didn't release. I've seen it before.

I just had the same problem with mine.
I stored it with the emergency brake on for about 4 months.
The right rear caliper was sticking/tight.
All I had to do to fix it was to readjust the allen screws on the caliper.
I no longer store the car with the emergency brake on.
I drove it over the weekend to Scotts Barbeque and so far so good.....

Yeah, I'm hoping its a problem with the ebrake. How do you adjust it?

when me and my dad recused my 914 from certain destruction,one of the brake lines swelled shut....it was wierd not having the car coast backwards on a incline...

yup - flex lines #1 possibility, change 'em all, even though the rears are a PITA.
#2 - corrosion or crud in the handbrake actuating slot hanging up proper release.

QUOTE (a2vwnick @ Apr 6 2005, 10:49 AM)

Yeah, I'm hoping its a problem with the ebrake. How do you adjust it?

The first thing I did was undue the emergency brake cable from the caliper to see if it was sticking.
This is just a clip and a pin.
The emergency brake portion of the caliper was fine and the cable wasn't sticking.
Both of my pads were still tight against the disk.
I used the following procedure to adjust the venting clearance.
The next step was to take the cap off of the front of the caliper and the back of the caliper.
The front cap is just plastic cap removed with a 13mm wrench.
The rear cap is located through a hole in the trailing arm.
You will need an allen wrench to remove the cover.
There is a good explanation of the adjustment in the haynes manual for this procedure.
The release clearance between the disc and the pad is .008"
To adjust this you will need to loosen the 13mm nut in the front of the caliper with a 13mm wrench.
You will than use an allen wrench to adjust the clearance with a .008" feeler gauge.
For the rear you will need to use a long allen wrench through the hole in the trailing arm.
Turn the allen until the piston and pad move away from the disk.
The clearance is the same as the outside.

Cohline lines proper? Or another brand that is good? I think i read here somewhere that the braided ones aren't the best.

I'm having an issue with one of my calipers as well.

b.

QUOTE (brer @ Apr 6 2005, 03:27 PM)

Cohline lines proper? Or another brand that is good? I think i read here somewhere that the braided ones aren't the best.

Ate (Alfred Teves) is the OEM, and my preference.

opinions vary on the braided steel hoses. let's just say that you need a really good reason to use them, and if you can't think of one, you're better off without them. the OEM hoses will give good service at reasonable price for a long time.

the braided hoses require fairly frequent periodic inspection and are NOT lifetime replacements like a lot of people think -- they require replacement too - at least as often as the OEM rubber hoses.

After tearing apart a ga-jillion of these things, I would encourage you to plan on bleeding your system and take each caliper off for maintenance and cleaning.

Pull the springs and pins and pads. Get all the damn spider nests out of there and check the condition of your dust seals. This is the number 1 reason for rear brake piston and adjuster failure. People "never" take these calipers off and check these seals. They get torn, rotten and some aren't even there. Water gets in and rusts the first 1/8" of the bore making the piston stick. It rarely goes beyond the inner seal but that 1/8" is enough to gum up the works.

Check your springs upon removal. They're frail and they tend to bust apart. A pop rivet gun will fix them but... they're only $5.00 new. They could be missing leaving a pad to rub against the rotor.

Check your adjusters. If they're working, you should be fine. If your dust covers are bad, I can send you some new ones. Send me $5.00 to cover the shipping etc. If your adjusters aren't working then it's probably time for a rebuild.

By all means... listen to those who have posted before me:

Lines - If you haven't replaced the rubber lines, spend the $50.00 to get new ones and get ready for the battle. I like to use a MAPP torch to get the 11mm ends loose from the old lines. The rear hard-line loops are NLA so you don't want to be bending and twisting those apart. I had a 914 that stopped great... just getting it rolling again was difficult. After about 10 minutes the brakes released themselves and away it went. Lines do blister internally so check them and if you're in doubt get new ones. Don't swear at me when your replacing the rears... it's not my fault!

Adjust - Improper adjustment of the hand brake can cause one brake to get hot and then start to bind.

If you check all that stuff there's no way you won't find your problem.

Others reading this... I just spent the afternoon tearing down another 50 calipers. Make sure you take the time this spring to remove, clean and inspect your calipers. I see them all. Nice clean ones that have been taken care of and nearly impossible ones that have all but given up the ghost.

Seriously... do it, you need to bleed your brakes anyway.

The trick to remove the rear lines where the flex line attaches to the chassis was to cut the line with some cutters just below the fittings, then you can stick a socket right over the fitting and it'll come out a helluva lot easier than with an open ended wrench. Putting them in is a contortionists delight, but definately doable.

QUOTE (Travis Neff @ Apr 6 2005, 11:04 PM)

...it'll come out a helluva lot easier than with an open ended wrench.

not picking on you, but an open-end wrench is never the right tool for this job. use the proper flare nut wrench and you'll have far fewer rounded fittings. i got my set at Sears about 30 years ago and they're still going strong.

except for the aluminum Bonney wrenches i use on AN fittings, i use the flare wrenches for virtually every nonferrous fastener.

If you're putting together a list for the weekend work I would include a set of flare wrenches along with a MAPP torch. If you only get one, get the 11/10mm combo at your FLAPS. MAPP torches can be had at Lowe's/Home Depot for $39.00. Vital tool for your teener.