Looking for some advice.

I bought a 76 2.0L FI DL 914. It did not run right and most of the electrical was not working also. Well, now I have head, signal, brake, emergency, backup lights, starter and wipers. Horn and trunk light are still an issue.

I removed gas tank and flushed, good shape, replaced gas lines and fuel filter. Replaced plugs. points, condenser, rotor, cap and plug wires, new air filter, changed engine and transmission oil, and filter.

Car started right up and runs very nice. Runs very nice for about 5 minutes and then cuts out like it not getting gas or loading up.

Placed a pressure gauge on the FI today, and it stays at 30-32 psi when primed and running. When the car starts to cut out the pressure is still 30-31 psi. Vacuum lines look good and in the right place.

Car is a California car and loaded with the EGR equipment, EGR pump is removed.

Request some advice on the next hoop to jump thru.

Has good charge and battery. Cleaned fuse box today, has good conductivity on the ground strap. Good charging system and battery. Cleaned FI, good spray!!!
I am going to check the cyl pressure and valve tolerances tomorrow.
Running out of things I know what to look at. H E L P !!!!!!!!
Ian
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We’ve got a line in the sky

I had the same problems. Headlights came on but didn't pop up. Starter wouldn't crank. When I replaced my bad ignition switch the headlights worked again.

Cleaning all of the bulb contacts fixed the turn signals. The worst corrosion was on the contacts inside the rear light assemblies.

Many strange things happen with the battery is sputzo...
Charge it up and try again.

Sounds like a few issues that I have encountered before The lights could be a multitude, check the relay at each light, check the grounds. My brushes were disconnected inside the actual motor.
As far as rough running, have you checked the injectors? Replaced the fuel filter?

Good luck

Also you may want to have the injectors cleaned, after 15 years sitting, gum and varnish may have formed. I would first do a good tune-up (points, cap, rotor, wires, plugs and timing), test that the mps holds vacuum and see for the injectors.

Add a valve adjust to that list too, and new gas if you haven't already.

Oh, and don't forget to change the gear oil. Buy a cylinder head temp and oil temp and check the wheel bearings and get new springs and shocks and steering wheel and and and

What the hell, just go buy a new boxster it will cost the same

Buying the boxster would be nice but unecessary because the problem was that the guy who owned it before me had some crappy alarm installed but he diconected it and it was tied into all the lights and stuff like that. The starter is apparently new and wasnt hooked up so i fixed that. And now that the new rotor and wires are in it runs fairly well too. Thanks for the help though i will probably be asking a who lot more soon. Like how to post pictures?

Make sure the all the fuse contacts are clean. Strange things happen when corrosion sets in. I was sure I needed a new wiring harness. Got some contact cleaner and white grease and life is again good.

QUOTE (Seaside6 @ Apr 6 2005, 09:56 PM)

Make sure the all the fuse contacts are clean. Strange things happen when corrosion sets in. I was sure I needed a new wiring harness. Got some contact cleaner and white grease and life is again good.

clean as many contacts/connectors/sockets as you can and check wires. easy stuff first.

important fyi, there is a LARGE ground strap that goes from the rear of the trans to the bottom of the rear trunk floor. check for clean contact and that the strap is in great condition, check the ends. this is a major ground. check the grounds behind the headlight buckets, the wires (brown as are all ground wires) either slip on or are held on with a nut. clean, clean, clean.

k

I pulled the distributor today and cleaned the injector contact and checked the gap again.
Then checked the valves. All valves were right on.
Ran out of time putting things together. I will finish tomorrow and check the timing and see how it runs.

QUOTE

Like how to post pictures?

FAQ at the top of the page.

QUOTE

I pulled the distributor today and cleaned the injector contact and checked the gap again. Then checked the valves. All valves were right on. Ran out of time putting things together. I will finish tomorrow and check the timing and see how it runs.

If you have not replaced or checked the CHT then you havent addressed the problem of it cutting out after 5 min of "perfect" running!

Just my .02!

Jeff

Check the fuel filter, I had a similar issue after starting mine up after PO-Barn storage for several years, the fuel line had crap in it, and after runnning for a few minutes, the crap makes it's way up the line and on to the filter. The car then dies once the filter is clogged enough. then, after the car sits for a bit, some of the crap falls back out of the filter, and allows the car to run for a bit and the situation repeats it's self.

-pull the filter, see if it's dirty, attach a soft line to the end of the fuel line, and put it into a bucket, then run the pump for a minute or two to see if dirt comes out with the gas...

-Good Luck!

QUOTE (merrill @ Apr 6 2005, 01:59 PM)

Oh, and don't forget to change the gear oil. Buy a cylinder head temp and oil temp and check the wheel bearings and get new springs and shocks and steering wheel and and and

Why would you want to change the gear oil? It doesn't wear out. The Cap'n

What does the CHT stand for? and where is it?

OK CHT = > Cylinder Head Temperature sensor.
Will start the troubleshooting guide to Fuel injection this weekend. I appreciate the information on the CHT.
I will keep you posted of the progress. Thanks for your input.
Ben M. where are you?

"Help "O" Ben M, Kanobie, your our only hope."

I had the same problem coming back from the WCC, changed the filter but it would run for a minute and stop, fuel pump still operable. MPS seems to hold vacuum (don't have a vacuum guage) I haven't checked my CHT, but I will tonight! My last place of speculation is my fuel pump is faulty - or crap in the tank (but after changing the filter I couldn't even make it out of the parking lot - less than a minute.

I made up a pressure guage on a tee for under $15 dollars and placed it in the fuel line loop. The pressure guage would rule out the problem with the pump and pressure regulator.

New CHT did the trick. Thanks for the help!!

QUOTE (Loser_Cruiser @ Apr 29 2005, 03:20 PM)

OK CHT = > Cylinder Head Temperature sensor. Will start the troubleshooting guide to Fuel injection this weekend. I appreciate the information on the CHT. I will keep you posted of the progress. Thanks for your input. Ben M. where are you? "Help "O" Ben M, Kanobie, your our only hope."

How come nobody told me Ian was looking for me? Well, no matter - HE FOUND ME. Today I was building fence out in the front yard and had to "check six" when I heard the familiar sputter of a TypeIV. It was Ian in his very clean '76 2.0! Looks and sounds great Ian!
We had a nice visit. I was compelled to unveil the turbo. How embarassing. It's been "out back" for a while and not at all presentable. Oh well. Ian was kind about it.
It's nice to make a new 914 aquaintence! Ian's is the first 914 besides my own that I've seen in almost a year!

-Ben M.