I have a 1.7engine and will be running twin Weber 40idf's.

My car was originally a 2.0i but came minus engine and ancillaries. The only thing I have is the original 3 port pump. I haven't tested it yet but I won't be running a return so can't use the pumpin this instance.

What kind of pressure should I be running the carbs at? Research and past experience (albeit not with 40's) would suggest something in the range of 2.5 to 3.5 psi.

Anyone with this set up have any input/advice on pump and flow pressure?

Find a low pressure, self regulated, 2 port pump and be done with it. Your stock fi pump, in serviceable condition, should cover the the cost.

Your experienced numbers are still good.
But I always recommend a return on carbs also

I used this one on my 2056:
http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetail...roductCode=3193

Also, there is no real need to relocate it, you can run it in the stock location using the stock wires:
http://www.914world.com/specs/SirAndyCarbFuelPumpRelay.php

Do you have pics of your installation. I am going to use the same setup and would like to "steal shamelessly" from a successful installation. Right now that pump and filter combo is sitting in the hell hole awaiting installation or is it inspiration.

No pics, and the engine has long been replaced.

I mounted the pump on the firewall in the section where the fuel filter mount is on the early cars. Close to the original pump location but more in-line with the fuel lines.

I used the stock wiring to power the pump, no need to hack any wires (see link in my post above).

I used the factory wires but the previous owner cut off the plug so I picked up one of those 2 wire Weatherpack connectors for a GM car at the parts store. Makes for a nice water proof connection. Mounted the pump in the factory location I think using the same bolt hole but without an isolator.....nice and quiet. Not much of a photo.

Click to view attachment


Click to view attachment

I've ordered one of the above mentioned pumps with some other bits from cb.

Have you also fitted a separate flow regulator?

The issue i have now is that there was no relay board in the car, likely to have been removed with the motor etc.

I think i will relocate the pump up front in the fuel tank bay or close.

Any info on fresh install in this area would be appreciated as i would feel better running with a relay control on the pump.

I just installed the fuel pump for carbs that i purchased from CFR but i hadn't planned on running a return.

Why are you in favor of doing so?

Thanks
Steve

I bought this:
http://revolutionelectronics.com/Fuel_Pump.html

Keeps the fuel cooler and helps prevent vapor lock from boiling fuel in the lines and float bowls.

I had to add two spacers under the manifolds to keep the fuel from boiling in my 2056 with baby Webers. I seem to remember a pressure regulator with a return, but could be wrong about that.

Any thoughts on leaving the FI pump under the tank when trying out some carbs? I want to just add the facet pump in the stock location, maybe run a switch to the FI pump to use for priming the system.

I'm just not sure if I can pull fuel through the FI pump when it's not running, or if irt would hurt the pump.

Plenty of thoughts on both and them thoughts are not positive ...


- Don't use the FI pump for carbs! It's a high pressure pump and trying to use it is asking for all sorts of trouble, most notably a burnt out 914!

- Don't use a facet pump! They're noisy and most importantly, they're crap. Use a rotary pump instead. Get one that puts out the correct pressure for your carbs so you don't need to run a pressure regulator.


And yes, the FI spacers under carb manifolds helps with keeping the carbs cooler, which is always a good thing.

I've been using this setup for 13 years now. Works fine, lasts a long time. (With apologies to Pratt and Whitney).

So no thoughts on just abandoning the FI pump under the tank while adding a pressure regulated rotary pump to run carbs?

It's just a temporary thing and I'm hoping to not have to take the tank out again (and again to put it back) if I don't have to.

Facet and regulator is what I already have...

With the facet and regulator you should still add an ACCURATE gauge to the mix. More $, connections and potential leak points. Remove the current pump. Pulling the tank is not that big of a chore for one person. You have the answers, do the swap correctly the first time.