I was screwing around with an old top and discovered that the old seals on the sides are a real bitch to get out. Anybody got a special technique for replacing these?

I remember installing those seals on my car was a PITA. I think I put liquid soap on them to lube them. I don't remember exactly what I used, but it was still hard to slide them in. Maybe I used Armorall. Recently I had to install new squeegees and fuzzys in the doors and that also was a pain. They would not slide in the grooves, so I had to get one edge into the channel then use a screwdriver to shove the otherside into place. Before doing that I had to pry up the channel all along one side to give a little more clearance. I need to do these top seals on the new V8 car soon so would be nice if someone has an easier way to do it.

Getting them out seems to be a PITA in itself. It looks like maybe slicing them down the middle into 2 pieces might be the easiest way.

Dont try to slide them. Grease/lube them up, put one side in the channel, and then poke the other side in with a small standard screw driver. It takes no time at all.

How do you get them out without deforming the channel?

It took me a few hours to get my top put back together. I found the secret is to use GLYCERINE to lube the seals up. It works wonders! You can buy it at the supermarket in a little dark brown/black bottle near the isopropyl alcohol and hydrogen peroxide.

To get them out I would pop one corner out with a screwdriver (be careful) and slowly pull it up and out of the channel.

Are we talking about the vertical seals on the front of the roll bar/sail panel? Or the seals on the top?
The vertical channel on the roll bar has been "pinched" in a couple of places and you need to pry those spots with a screwdriver, then the rubber will slide or pull out fairly easily. No cutting necessary.

Horizontal seals on the top.

Question:

I've gone through the targa top seal replacement several times; Why not eliminate the metal channeling altogether.
Instead of using the metal channels, use 1" double sided acrlic foam tape-like the kind used for trim molding ?

This way the rubber can be put exactly where the best seal is achieved.

Has anyone tried this already ?

That tape would have to be really, really strong. The metal channel gives the seals some rigidity in the lateral direction. You need this to get good sealing against the windows, which push inwards slightly (ideally) when the door is closed.

Jim is a perty picky guy. Jim I want to see this. Pic of Jims car.
Joe

Lateral force is definately a factor. Contact cement may overcome this.

They should peel out of the channel without deforming it.

Don't even "attemp" replacement without silicon spray. I tried the soap method. "Nope" is the dope on soap. Another teener turned me on to this and I got the remainder of my seals in with "NO PROBLEMS".