I have a straight cut cam gear, its not honestly all that loud.

thanks, I've watched a few youtube videos and with rest of the Type IV engine sound (mechanical, intake and exhaust) the cam gear doesn't seem that bad.

Makes it sound a little more /6 engine'ish

Still trying to find some input on whether or not the stock L-Jet will work with this 9600 RAT camshaft?

Dual Webers are calling my name, trying to avoid spending the $$$ and joining the darkside.

Induction is easy to change. Run the L-Jet and see what happens.

Run the L Jet and put a piggy back system or full ECU swap on it.

the right and best way to do modern ish fuel injection on the cheap would probably be Megasquirt.

Just nervous with a fresh rebuild, what if it doesn't start right away or stalls too often?

Will I screw up my new cam if it takes too long to get it running longer than 20 minutes or so?

You might want to talk to Mark on here about it, or read through some of the builds using it.
Worst case start it and run it on a carb to break the cam in.

The cam assembly lube sticks around for awhile. And if you run closed loop and autotune you can get it to rev to 2000-3000 pretty easily and be sure you're not flooding the motor.

With no load on the engine, your mixture and timing isn't nearly as critical. So you run the engine, rev it up, keep an eye on the mixture, but keep it running/rev'd until the cam break in is over. Then move your attention to tuning.

Also, this is the part where I praise the gospel of dyno tuning. Pay the money. Get it done first, not last. It's worth every penny.

Any updates Mike ? I am looking at upgrading my L-Jet as well. Currently, it has the 94mm pistors and 2L crank shaft. I have a set of stock heads that are resurfaced and and new valves added- no mods though.

My local indy is going to replace the heads and suggested adding 96mm pistons. Since you drove my car at the WCR 2015 at San Simeon, I thought you might have some useful suggestions. And. it hasn't pinged again...

Gonna stay L-Jet

Finally getting back to my engine.

I picked up new lifters and uncut chromoly push rods from The Type IV Store,

I'm thinking I should go with better than stock valve springs for my 9600 RAT camshaft?

Bump for spring recommendations!

Also, any work I can do myself on the combustion chambers like adding a radius to the edge from the flat to the combustion pocket?

Let's see if this one gets ignored as well

Can the stock Type IV oil pump deal with a remote cooler all the way up front behind the bumper if i wanted to go with a GT type setup?

no

Time to start working on the engine again.....

Dual or single valve springs? (Raby 9600 cam)

I think that HD springs were used on most the Raby cams with a more aggressive ramp.

The springs that came with mine were single coil, HD springs.

Be 100% positive that you use the right lifters for your new cam. Ceramic lifters are best, or the correct Raby / LE lifters for that cam. Otherwise you can flat spot the cam in no time flat. Learned that the hard way. :-(

Zach

I think that cam would prefer to have dual or HD springs. But if you email the Type4Store they should be able to tell you what's recommended.

Called and got someone that had the cam card!
Recommended dual (with a little hesitation which makes me nervous?)

Specs:
.335 IN
.400 EX

Duration 290°

@ .050" 252° IN
@ .050" 254° EX

Looking at the Web Cam catalog, it looks similar to the 86a (below) except for intake lift, I hope it was a misprint or I didn't hear her correctly. Web Cam doesn't show any cams with that small of an intake lift!



I think I will measure the lift just to make sure.

I have the parkerized lifters from the Type IV store.

I just did a quick measurement using my HF digital calipers.

Lift for stock cam:

I = .277 , E = .255 so the intake lift is .022 greater than exhaust.

9600 cam:

I = .310 , E = .384 so the exhaust is almost .070" greater than the intake? Turbo cam or okay for N/A?

More exhaust flow to compensate for the type 4s poor exhaust flow characteristics. Common idea with a variety of implementations.

Thanks, that is what I was thinking, will run it.

Back to your original question, I suggest you evaluate upgrading your oil pump (higher flow) in tandem with Tangerine's oil pressure relief valve upgrade.

Thanks, ordered the Tangerine Racing oil pressure relief spring upgrade.


Only oil pumps i could find are the 30mm units:
https://type4store.com/products/oiling-syst...hicles-486.html

I also found an article for using the stock oil pump and making it better than as delivered:
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=127097

Did you want a 26mm pump? I can send one your way.

Started to clean the engine again to get it ready to put back together.

I Bought a media blaster kit to hook up to my pressure washer....

I am using baking soda for the media.... 1st test and it works pretty darn good, just messy (more so the water spraying back at me ) I'll have to fix that!

There was a lot more build up between the webs before I gave it a blast. Just plain water out of the gun didn't do squat.

Click to view attachment

Megasquirt question...really EDIS related. Older MS2 V3.57

I screwed up and bought the wrong EDIS setup, I bought the -8 version instead of the -4 version.

I still think I can get it to work correctly as long as I mount the sensor 50° as per EDIS-8 requirements.

The stock V8 firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 (wasted spark pairs are 1-6, 3-5, 7-4 and 2-8)
As long as I connect to the correct coil I see no reason it wouldn't work.

Any possible damage if I didn't hook up the other 4 spark plug wires?

Will I damage a coil if it is only firing on one side and not as a pair?

Good time to convert the heads to dual plug?


Click to view attachment

That's definitely above my pay grade.

I'm pretty sure you can just set up your MegaSquirt board with a second ignition driver and then dispense with the EDIS altogether. Less components to break/die. Simpler wiring. Simplicity.

Thanks I'll look unto that. Didn't really want to go with COPs.

If you want the "easy button" for spark output look at VAG Part #032905106B wasted spark coil off late 90s/early 2000s VWs. Aftermarket/generic can be had for less than 20 bucks. Its logic level so no high current ignition drivers are needed, the wiring of it is crazy simple. Only thing you need to know is to swap the 3 and 4 plug wires from how they are labeled on the coil to account for the Type 4 firing order.


Click to view attachment

You've already put more work into EDIS than it would take to add a second driver -- and there's more work to make the EDIS function. Follow James recommended coil and you'll be done with ignition. With what's available now, I don't see why anyone should ever use EDIS.

Thanks Mark and James.

So i do not need to upgrade to the BIP737 ignition drivers with that VW modual?

I may have an EDIS4 if you want it.

Thanks, I ended up buying the VW unit above. $20 shipped brand new on Amazon, that route seems to be better method now.

Silly question, I need to buy or make an engine stand yoke/holder for my Type IV, if I make one does it matter which half of the case I mount to the engine stand to start the assembly?

Perhaps these might help?

I haven't worked with a MegaSquirt unit yet, so I haven't done a bunch of research on the nuance of adding ignition drivers. But with that coil you're only using a few milliamps to fire the coil, so you don't need beefy drivers. Essentially, any driver will work fine becuase the draw will be far below the safe rating. The BIP737 is something like 11A max. So that VW coil will be about 1% of that.

I always install the stand/yoke on the 3-4 (passenger) side of the engine case.

Look forward to seeing this all come together. Good read. Thanks.

Finally, some work related to my 914...

Removed the main cylinder studs this morning.

Noticed one of the smaller studs is bent pretty good. Will have to source another one.

I plan to clean the engine case one more time, might be a little easier with the studs removed. The other side has a lot more oil caked onto it for some reason.

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Cleaned my engine, also deburred it a little bit also by cleaning up the extra aluminum from the casting process. Not as sharp now.

Cleaned it using my pressure washer with media blaster attachment with baking soda.

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

In case it is not in Raby's Type IV assembly DVD I have not fully watched,

What do people use and recommend for installing the head/cylinder studs?


Click to view attachment

Bump for:


What sealant do people use and recommend for installing the head/cylinder studs?

Mike, it's in there somewhere but IIRC it was Loctite PST 565 thread sealant.

Thanks, I'll have to finish watching it this weekend.

Did you order the DVD recently? I'd love to get a copy.

Actually I asked about it and a few weeks later someone sent me their old one anonymously.

I'd put a WTB in the classifieds.

https://vwparts.aircooled.net/Bug-Me-Video-...build-vol-8.htm

Not sure if this qualifies for being cheap or resourceful. Lost a dowel pin and had a perfect sized HSS drill that I figured could be used. Drill still usable so no big deal.


Anyone using special engine break-in oil?
https://type4store.com/products/sealants/jo...-12-quarts.html



Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Lookin' good!

Dominic was nice enough to send me a straight engine stud and I got my 1.7 rockers with 911 adjusters.


Click to view attachment