have entire front end dropped, got driver's side tie rod off but passengers side will not budge....OEM tie rod is destroyed now so tow/drive it to shop is a no-go. Only recourse I see is removing steering rack and try to get OEM rod off.

Is gas tank removal a must? (Not a real option at this point..)

Thanks for input/advice including trick to get OEM rods loose....

Entire front end dropped? I thought you meant that you have taken off the whole front suspension, which would make it very easy.. but then you are talking about gas tank removal.. so I guess you haven't. I THINK you can drop the whole front suspension without removing the tank.

Unbolt the shocks from the top, completely remove (don't just loosen) the bolt that clamps the steering ujoint onto the rack (accessable under the dash), disconnect both brake lines, disconnect sway bar if equiped, raise car and support on jackstands on front donuts, remove front valence, remove access panel behind crossmember, remove master cylinder, get a floor jack under the crossmember, remove bolts at crossmember, remove bolts at front end of torsion bars.

Then you can lower the floor jack and the whole suspension with rack comes off. Then removing the steering rack is a piece of cake.

Here's the hardest part.. resist the temptation to sandblast and powdercoat the suspension.. it will never end!

(hopefully I didn't forget anything, if I did someone will surely fill in the gaps)

Never mind - got it!! New ones in as well as new master cyl (19mm).

Yes everything but the rack itselfs is out. Blizzard comming this way so its buttoned up for the weekend.

Next week will install the Bilsteins into struts, new Weltmeister bushings into A-arms, new ball joints, calipers/rotors/brake lines/porterfield pads, bump steer kit and 22mm sway bar (retaining stock sway bars.

Time permitting I will then move to the rear - Bilstein shocks, 165 lb springs, rebuilt calipers, new hoses and porterfield pads.

I don't know about getting the steering rack out without removing the tank. There's a bearing/support that the steering shaft goes through before it gets to the passenger compartment........could be a real bitch to get to.

There's also a little rubber bearing/seal that goes between the firewall and steering rack boot that's missing from this pic....... Gotta take the whole thing back out.

Way to go Mark!

Guess I was a little late with the pic.

Took a pipe wrench on the old tie rod combined with buddy holding the rack with a wrench + lots of muscle to get it to move a half turn; then a few good blows to the brass part with a chisel and it came off.....

Replaced the master cyl (took all of 15 minutes with everything out of the way!) and installed the turbo tie rods, then covered car with 2 tarps (plus a carpet bath mat over the engine grill) because.....

WINTER has returned to Colorado - looks like the sound stage to Dr. Zhivago out there.....no reports of cannibalism yet, though I did relate the story of the Donner party to the lady who lives next door and informed her she was the first person I was going to eat if things got any worse...........

Hey MarkG...

I heard Denver was snowed in completely, and the airport was closed yesterday

glad you got it. they can be tough. where they go through the arm needs plenty of penetrant. well in advance of removal. one came out easy the other was stubborn. if you/anyone has air tools putting the point bit chisel in the indentation of the top of the ball joint and hitting it with the air chisel works well to loosen things up. if i have to, i then use a floor jack with a 2x4 on top jacked up under the arm as close to the ball joint as pos. put the nut back on just proud(high) of the top of the threads and smack it with a 3lb maul. on the other end of the tie rod stick the same bit in one of the notches on the disc and hit that with the air to loosen. the whole assembly, inner end and rod will turn out as one piece.

k