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rfinegan
Im running a Malory distributor and a HiFire module on a Blue coil. ITs been fine for about a year now with no issues. The last few weeks I have had the ignition just cut out and tach drops to Zero. Coast in gear to find a spot to pull over the ignition starts again and tach reads normal and drives without issue. Is this a sign of a module going bad? I noticed the heat /sound pad on the fire wall is falling off in my engine compartment too. It will touch the coil and coil wire. I'm thinking this may be giving me troubles too. Should I pull the pad? try to reglue? What kind of glue do I need? I need to get this resolved OR I WILL be on the side of the road with a not start condition at the worst possible time (NIGHT/RAIN/TRAFIC)

-Robert
era vulgaris
I had the same thing happen to me about a month ago on 401 going into Raleigh. Driving along and the engine cut out. I coasted into a turn lane and stopped. Forum member nwm5709 actually spotted me and stopped to ask if he could help. Unfortunately my car wouldn't restart.
When I got home I found that the spade connector on my starter slipped off the electrical tab because one side of the spade connector had gotten stretched out. Could be something to check for you.

Also, from all the reading I did while waiting for the tow truck...when was the last time you replaced your ignition switch? It'll cause a similar fault of the car cutting out while driving.


jim_hoyland
Been there ! Replace the module. They are known to go into intermittent failure mode. For a long time it was thought they were all-or=none Always carry a spare !

maf914
When you buy a new Mallory Unilite module, you may want to stock up on spares as well. As you may know, MSD bought out Mallory and I think have discontinued the line of Unilite distributors. Replacement parts, such as modules, caps rotors, are still available, but who knows for how long. Check Jegs, Summit, and Amazon for prices. Components directly from Mallory were available on Ebay at one time, so you might check there also.
jim_hoyland
agree.gif and: I recommend the slight more expensive "605" modules.
maf914
QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Jul 13 2016, 09:27 AM) *

agree.gif and: I recommend the slight more expensive "605" modules.


I noticed there are two modules available, one more expensive than the other and sometimes labeled handmade, but didn't understand the difference. Can you comment on this?
jim_hoyland
QUOTE(maf914 @ Jul 13 2016, 02:30 PM) *

QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Jul 13 2016, 09:27 AM) *

agree.gif and: I recommend the slight more expensive "605" modules.


I noticed there are two modules available, one more expensive than the other and sometimes labeled handmade, but didn't understand the difference. Can you comment on this?


I don't have the details In front of me;
Over the last 8 years, I've used both; the cheaper one gave me the "intermittent" shutdowns and others had reported issues with it. I also use the voltage spike protector from Mallory.
maf914
Thank you, Jim.
rfinegan
Installed and E-spark module found on Amazon ($65.00)and seems to be back running as it did....Thanks all for the input and tips

-Robert
rhodyguy
Bump for Jim.
Toast
Had the same set up before and the same problem.

Ended up being the connector to the coil would not stay crimped on tight. After the last time being on the side of the freeway, I changed the connector.

Years later the same thing happened, but never fired back up. The Malory had died. Yes, they do eventually quit, especially if they are old.
yeahmag
I also run a Mallory 29351 to help stabilize the voltage.
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