I found I couldn't select the gears as normal today. Upon investigation I found that the coupling bushing where the two rods connect, just to the rear of the firewall, had totally disintegrated.

I've still to order the replacement bushings, but looking at the rod coupling do I need to remove this pin or do the new bushings simply push on?

Yes, that pin needs to be removed. It was quite a bear on mine. Required a lot of PB blaster, heat, a vice and drift, and a cheater bar. Yours may not be that difficult, but if so be patient.

I went with the brass bushing when I replaced it.

This is a typical failure on old original shift rod couplers. Mine failed with disintegrating bushings about 15 years ago.

The replacement bushings (plastic, nylon, poly, brass are available) are installed from the inside of the coupler. The pin is a press fit into the shaft and must be pressed or tapped out to allow the bushings to be inserted. I was able to tap the pin out by pacing the coupler on a wood block with a hole large enough for the pin to be driven into, a hammer and drift, and penetrating oil on the pin. Be gentle as the coupler is cast metal. Others have used a bench vice as a press to press the pin out. There have been several threads on this site detailing this. The link below to Pelican Parts shows several bushing options.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperC..._pg4.htm#item10

While your linkage is apart you should replace all of the related bushings at the engine fire wall, transmission shift console, and transmission ball cup. You will see a major improvement in shift feel.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperC...T_pg2.htm#item5

Thanks guys for your responses. This gave me the confidence to hit it hard with a hammer. Pin is now OUT! Fingers only slightly bruised. Parts are ordered, should be back on the road by the weekend.
Thanks again,
Andy

I removed / installed mine with harbor freight press. Used a socket over the coupler. A vice should work the same.


If you are doing the firewall bushing, take a look at the one from Tangerine

http://www.tangerineracing.com/transmission.htm

I have the correct bushings on hand if you need some. If you get ones with a slotted hole, they are not what you need.

If you buy new OEM bushings from the dealer they'll intentionally have slotted holes, which allow the joint to move a bit like a u-joint to prevent side-loading (and potential drag or wear) elsewhere in the linkage. To get bushings with round holes, you'll have to buy aftermarket bushings that eliminate the u-joint functionality in order to provide a tight "performance" feel.

I believe there is enough slop in the non-slotted bushings to keep things from binding.

I used a vise and a few sockets to R&R the center pin when I replaced the very similar bushings on my wife's 911SC.

--DD

I believe the bushings with the oval hole is for a 911.

I used 911 bushings on bruces advice because the 914 bushings are oval.
But when moving the pin, I use a press.
much less likely to damage something that way.

It actually varies with the supplier. Pelican does not clearly say which have round holes and which are oval. I just got two pairs of oval holes that I don't like. They were sloppy on both dimensions.

Bruce

Just did this myself, hammer will not work. You need access to a press. I have a pic of how I pressed the new ones in.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=289102&hl=