Well replaced clutch.

Still no clutch.

I have some pictures of the clutch cable coming out the back of the firewall,and it does look like maybe something is wrong???

Appreciate if someone could offer up some suggestions as to what I might try Next.
Hoping pictures will help.

Also clutch moves about 1/2 way before there is any sort of tension on the cable.

Thanks

Take a picture of the arm & pulley for us to see please. Sounds initially like adjustment. Whats the pedal position & free play like?

On the pedal cluster:
There's a pin at the base of the clutch pedal arm that holds it to the shaft.
Check to see if the pin is broken, allowing the pedal to rotate on the shaft.

That sounds like a broken weld on the clutch tube in the tunnel.

Seems like it is just a adjustment.
If I tighten it up it seems to take all the slack out of the clutch pedal.

I checked the pin on the clutch assembly up front and it looks new.
Ill put it all back together,and see what gives.
Still have not figured out why my clutch stopped working in the first place.

Thanks for your help,after its all together I can only hope at this point
Cheers.

Thats what I am/was thinking also,but pedal seems to be working good,but wont know until I get it all back together.Thanks.

Appearance is deceiving. If the pin is hollow try sticking a straightened paper clip through it.

Also mark the pedal arm and the cross-shaft with a bit of paint or a scribe mark. Then push the pedal and see if the pedal arm is actually moving on the shaft--it shouldn't be.

Sounds very much like your clutch is not adjusted anywhere near correct.

If you have the metal trunnion (the part that hooks the cable onto the throwout arm) you will probably need some spacers between it and the DOUBLE M7 nuts that hold the clutch cable adjustment. The metal one is from a 911 application, I believe, and is shorter than the original plastic piece. Without a spacer, most people will run out of threads on the cable end before the clutch is properly adjusted.

--DD

I put in 3 washers before the nuts,and it seems to be really good.
Pedal has a bit of play,and car goes through the gears well.
I replaced all the hardware at the transmssion,so hoefully everything will be good to go.

The only thing holding me back is the exhaust stud bolts I ordered from Pelican are way to big,I guess they just eye balled them.Anyway need 1 more bolt,driving around the city has turned up nothing.
Thanks for everyones help,if my clutch actually works Ill be really happy.
Cheers.

On the forward end of the cable there is a specified distance relating to the Clevis. P.71 fig 4.9. Haynes manual. Even that paltry 10mm helps take up slack.

I had to cut 10-12mm of my new cable at the clevis end to get the adjustment at the clutch release arm,I then had the right freeplay @ the pedal.
By the way that is with a new clutch and unmachined flywheel,why do they make the replacement cables SO long ???

From previous threads, they make cables in two lengths, just right and a little long, almost the same as the bowls of porridge available to Goldilocks.

Sherwood

So that you can order this adjustable clutch cable pulley adapter from Tangerine racing to compensate for different length cables, of course!