Hey all...
I had a exhaust leak coming from the right heads/exhaust headers...
SO a I wanted to see if that was just a leak, and if internals got damaged?
Pulled out the headers, and exhaust, and headers are all black and greasy!
Plugs out and they look ok, just a little black but nothign crazy(NO CRACKS< NOTHING JAMMED).
Now here's where I need help....
How do you do a damn compression check!
I have the tester, and what ZzE fuck de bordel de merde should I do whith it?
Anybody uses them who can help?
Thanks a bunch....
My offer for the east bay peeps is still good....anybody want to come over to pleasanton tomorrow after 4 is welcome to....Hopeyard and corte sierra.
GImme a call, we can work on cars together 925.989.7345
Fum times
R.

The engine should be warm to do an accurate test but if it is cold it will be a little low since the rings will not be seated as good as could be. To do one, pull the plugs, lock open the throttle wide, put a charger on the batt so it is at full power the put the compression tester in #1. Have someone crank the engine and watch the gauge jump up. It is important how fast it rises and it should get close to full pressure in just a few cranks then a few more to top off. Bleed off pressure and repeat for #2, 3 and 4. Compare the rate of rise and total pressure and they should all be close. If you have a radical cam with lots of overlap then the rise will be slower than for a stock type of cam shaft. Good luck

Don't forget to pull the coil wire so the engine dosen't start on the other 3 cyl.

You want all the plugs out when you do the tests. It's good practice to give each cylinder a squirt of oil through the spark plug hole before cranking. That will seal the rings and the difference between readings for a hot and cold engine won't be much. You're cranking with no compression, so I've never needed a charger unless the battery was bad anyway.

Here is a good article on compression, leak down tests, wet and dry testing and Interpreting The Results of these tests.

AllrightTTTT!!!!
Thnks you guys!
Now I just need to get back down to the garage ...( I just got out of the shower and covered myself with some of that magic orange paste grease remover....)
I was working on the exhaust system...
Maybe you can help me....the 4 studs holding the exhaust manifold to the heads, were fixed with (heli?)coils ...and only one stud was still in there holding the whole exhaust system, explains the exhaust leak I had...
The only stud I have to rely on is this one and iti s 10mn on one sid plus the spring, and 8mn on the other side??!?!?!
Is this what I need to replace on the other 3?Is this a factory stud?
I need help?
Someone?
R.

Pretty sure the studs are 8 mm on both ends. Yes, the 10 mm heli-coil didn't stay in the head. Happened to me last time I removed heat exchangers, also. I bought a tap set and ran them all out to 10mm, then bought studs that were 8/10. That may be "bad", but I cant think of why this isn't as good as heli-coils.....

thanks scott...
I just want to add this....do VW shops guys know what they are doing/saying when it comes down to our cars????
I am asking this because I went down to this one VW place on the bay area which I will not name, and the guys sold me WRONG eeeeeeeverything!!!!
Common or not?
Whtvr
Anybody in pleasanton up to meet?
Still thinking about ya Paul, if you red this
R.

i don't trust bug-shops for advice (hell no), but i'll go there looking for specific parts.

helicoils suck, IMHO. but time-serts are $$$. tapping is okay, just make sure you do it straight. Loctite/JB-weld the hell out of the thing, too.

and wear safety glasses (ask me how i know).

n

-"SooOOo , how do you know?...."

I kindda found out too earlier, just some rust and grease getting n my eyes....NNNniiIIIIcEe!

at least it wasn't metal shavings...

ouaaaaaaaaach!