Daughter was away 2 years, car was parked.
On return, started it up, just fine, but a bit of a stutter.
Filled it up completely with fuel, seemed to work fine for an hour or so.

Couple days later "dad...the car is running badly, it hesitates".
Started it up, a few hesitations/balks.
Figured perhaps the fuel filter..so bought a Lordco filter, swapped it out.

Turned on ignition. NO fuel seems to be getting through. This is a new one. Turned over repeatedly, no success.
Swapped back to old filter in case of crappy filter.
Same.

Took line off end of filter that feeds engine. Turn on ignition. No "squirt" of fuel, but clearly fuel HAS been getting through filter, as fuel on "that side" when remove.
Did same with new filter.
Turns over, nothing trying to "catch".

About to give up.
Car fires up nicely, so go for a one hour drive.

Next day. "dad...the car won't start"...
Same "no catch, no indication of fuel into engine"

Any ideas?

AND

If it turns out to be a fuel pump issue:
a) any recommended source for fuel pump...I suppose 3 port is unlikely, so 2 port?
b)IF a 2 port, do I have to relocate pump re configuration of ports?


Thanks very much.

Paul

jeez...Big Len just went thru the same thing, got it to Rory's garage, trouble shot it quickly....double relay issue
I know very little about Ljet...just passing on the info

clean the sock in the fuel tank

Similar sounding issue I had a day ago, diagnosed by Rory.

If it won't start, try tapping on the double relay, it sits just below the battery tray. Then try to start.

If not, you need to check the injectors to make sure their pulsing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bg0HYr3SYYw

When the car does NOT start, can you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the key or is it silent? If silent then then exercise all electrical connections and relay pins in the fuel pump circuit. If the pump spins then look at the tank sock, filter, line blockage or injectors. Good luck.

Turning on the ignition will not activate the fuel pump. Fuel pump activates when the key is in the crank position or when the airflow meter flap has triggered the fuel pump contact switch.

I think you have a vacuum leak, which caused the rough running condition. The vacuum leak may have caused a backfire, which warped the airflow meter's flap. Since the flap isn't moving, it won't close the fuel pump contact switch. Which is now causing a no start condition. This is my .02 cents.

Verify fuel pump operation first. Jumper 88d of the dual relay to the positive battery post, the pump should turn on. Then verify that you still have spark. Then check the air flow meter's flap if it moves freely.

DING....DING....DING....

We have a winner....(well, Rmital AND Big Len)

When I looked at the location of the double relays, it started making sense. I had a @#@#$@# of a time getting the hose off the "front side" of the fuel filter, and in all likelihood nudged the wires and, as a result, one or both of the relays nearby (beneath the battery tray)

Thanks, to all.

Paul (and daughter Kirsten)

BTW
Should I mention that she is smart, single and rather attractive.
nah.....bunch of wieners

excellent...happy motoring...

Glad to hear !!!!