My 76 2.0, 118,000 miles, has always had it's original smog equipment and always passed CA smog so far. I have read many tips in here to help CA '76ers to pass smog, but wanted to show you my current specifics and test readings so maybe a smog expert member can tell me anything else to do so it continues to pass. The last smog station data is shown below, and the previous test smog numbers were almost identical to these readings. The engine had dropped a valve seat about 1800 miles prior to this most recent test. The heads were removed and the valve seat repaired. The engine must have had a valve adjustment done then, but not since. I recently changed oil to Brad Penn 20/50 (The car doesn't smoke on deceleration since then!). I also had a Crane Fireball XR700 electronic ignition installed a long time ago and the engine has never missed since then. I have recently switched fuel to 87 octane from premium, no problem. Looking at the smog test readings below from the last smog test, can anyone offer ideas for any other things to do before I have my next smog test soon?
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Do what ever you have been doing, your numbers look good.

Jim

Looks good. If you were closer to Sonoma you could do the test at my shop.

Thanks much. Can any smog gurus infer anything else from the readings? For example, do the past readings tell me anything about the overall status of my catalytic converter? Are any of the readings more borderline than any others? Do the prior numbers suggest any technique I should use before the next smog test to be sure that the car continues to pass smog successfully? I do not want to accidentally fall into the gross polluter category. Anything else I can learn to do to assure continued smog test success is very appreciated! Thank you.

I'll show the results to my smog tech Monday.

ty Cone, can't wait for his advice!

Hey Curtis,

With a 76, it's a good idea to collect an extra crap-alytic converter off of one now out of state (cat was CA only), air pump & other smog parts in good working order as back-ups.

Also track the Assemble or State Senate bill where they're trying to push the smog test requirement out another 10 years to 85 (I don't recall the bill #), & write your Reps to support it, & get other classic car collectors near you to do the same (any make/model owners).

That smog test exemption was originally passed as a rolling 30 year for collector cars, which would be driven less & considered a limited polluter, starting with 73 MY for 2 years rolling out to 75, then the Sierra Club & other ill-informed folks jumped in & got them to revise it to stop at 75.

BTW - our 914s were made to run on unleaded regular (91 RON on the sticker on the RF inner wheelhouse is the same octane rating), since they only offered unleaded regular at first in the early-mod-70's - as you may recall from your youth.

So you should be fine with that, & won't be risking any unburned hydrocarbons etc. running on richer fuel for the test.

Also, other than Brad Penn, you can also use any quality ZPPD enriched oil made for classic cars, in the wt./grade noted in your owners manual for the weather & use at the time.

For those reading this & living in cold climates & driving them in winter, I used to switch to winter oil when I would take my 914 up to the mountains for winter skiing, then back to summer or all purpose back in the low lands, & since I changed oil every 3-5K, it wasn't a big deal, as it might be today with more limited use making that interval now 12 months regardless of miles, & limited snow/cold weather use. So I'd just run summer wt., but others in cold may want to do 6 month winter, summer switch (or more depending on miles).

A good guideline is to change oil & adjust valves at the same interval.

PS - I recall recently seeing a low mile (35K-ish maybe) 76 Cat FS on CL, so look at the CL section of the 914club.com classifieds, since theirs covers all sections of the US (IIRC the 914world version is only major metro areas' CLs).

GLWT-Test!
Tom
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Thank you Tom, as usual, great advice!

Curtis,
Just left my shop. First of all, Brad was shocked at how "grubby" the allowed readings were. But when I told him it was for a 76 914 he said "oh, I suppose."
You were good per Brad on everything except HC or hydrocarbons. This Is unburnt fuel of course. His suggestions are as follows. Adjust valves. Change spark plugs and wires. Change points and cap, making sure dwell and gap are properly set. Basically a good tune up. Make sure your timing is properly set as well.
Your cat is probably fine.
There are a couple things you can do to get a little hotter spark but Brad says you're probably good as long as things haven't drastically changed. MSD and Pertronix are what he is referring to. Make sure your coil is good.
Focus your effort on making sure your getting good spark to burn up that fuel.

If you want to drive it to Sonoma, we can pre-test it for you to make sure you don't end up on the 'list.'

Good luck!

Are you going to a Test Only shop ?

Mine passed without a cat and 45s in the idle jets

Don't know yet, not received notice quite yet, preparing in advance this time.
Why do you ask Jim?
cwl

A test only shop is just a type of shop. The test is the same everywhere. There are also test and repair shops that can fix what is wrong, and even test and lube shops. Some cars, a percentage, get sent to Star Centers. Again the test is the same. It's random.

Hi Rob, really appreciate you taking the time to check these readings with Brad. please indulge me with a few follow up questions. I hope none are too dumb.
- I think I'd like to stay with my current spark system. I was reading about the MSD change over and it mentioned a lot of high current issues I'm not sure I want to get into.
- If I start with new wires and cap, I read that the Crane xr700 calls for a stock OEM cap. Does it matter what brand or source for the new cap, and can you recommend a good brand and source for appropriate plug wires using my current elecrical setup?
- What brand of spark plugs for my present ignition set up, and gap do you recommend?
- I read the following on a Pelican Parts info sheet: "Ignition coil is simple to measure. When measured with ohm meter the primary coil windings should give a reading of 0.3-0.6 ohms. Secondary coils should be near 600 ohms." If I do this test and it's ok, can I presume my coil is ok?
- Even with the Crane EE, the distributor still needs dwell and timing set, correct?
- Finally, even though the valves were adjusted 1800 miles ago when the headwork was done, you'd do them again?
Dang, if you were closer I'd bring it in, but just too far! Rats!
thanks,
curtis

I'm going to refer you to McMark with those questions. Just PM him. He can make you some Magnecor spark plug wires, he did for me. I bought the smog shop from him when he moved to Michigan.

thank you, have forwarded my questions to McMark.
cwl

When I took the '98 Boxster in to a Test Only in my area, it appeared they were very thorough in inspecting all the required pollution control parts and whether modifications had been made. Fortunately, the Box is completely stock; but the guy said he failed many Boxsters for engine modifations....interesting.

Yes, lots of "cold air intake" mods to Boxsters and many of the headers available eliminate two of rhe four O2 sensors. Every car is inspected. The tech must click on a yes box that says all the smog toys are there...

Just a note, the cold air intakes and headers are legal but only if the manufacturer went through an expensive testing process and there is a CARB# on the part.

My philosophy on getting old cars to pass smog is pretty simple. Fix/replace everything.

If you don't know the history on the AFM, I would get a rebuilt one from Fuel Injection Corp. Confirm fuel pressure, and perhaps run it slightly under by 2-3lbs. Make sure your air pump is working. Make sure the ports into the heads are clear. Make sure the pipes and air valve are clear.

1800mi after a head rebuild is a great time to readjust the valves. Things have seated/settled/stretched.

It's a bunch of work, but it's regular maintenance that should be done anyway, so bite the bullet and confirm as much as you can. Then note the date & mileage in your log book.

Electronic ignition (Crane or Pertronix) is a worthwhile upgrade. You can't adjust the dwell on those, but you do need to confirm your timing. While confirming your timing, make sure the vacuum pot on the distributor is good. Those can leak, and any unconnected ports on the pot need to be left uncapped. Set the timing at full advance (3500) as specified in the manuals, but also check idle timing to confirm that the advance plate isn't sticking. Or better yet, disassemble, clean, and grease the advance mechanism. You have an adjustable timing light, right?

MSD will help idle/low rpm combustion, but shouldn't be necessary to pass. So feel free to skip the expense/complexity if you're so inclined.

Thanks much. I don't have and adj light, as I get most of my work done by a local independent porsche mechanic. Should the timing be set at full advance just for the smog test or for normal running too?

Timing is normally set 27-degrees at 3500rpm.

But it's possible to set the timing 'correctly' and then have the internal mechanism be gummed up and sticky so while it's correct at 3500rpm it's wrong everywhere else. Sticky mechanism can also cause erratic running when it sticks at various points. Checking the advance at idle gives you the two most important data points, if those are right, it's reasonable to assume the advance in between is correct as well.

IMHO, owning a classic car requires you to learn some basic aspects of auto repair, as well as have the proper tools. A timing light like this one is a good investment.