Figuring out a floor plan for a new Shop Building. Don't have a unlimited budget so trying to pre plan carefully to get the most value, while not making to many mistakes.

If you were going to build your "dream" shop, or already have one, what do you think should be mandatory, or a feature(s) of yours you wouldn't want to do without.

Don't make anything permanent at first and make the air hose really long. Your going to make changes.

Make sure your ceiling and doors are high enough to accommodate lifts and different vehicles. And you can't have too many power outlets.

Put a big sink in. See if you can find an old stainless steel sink from somewhere. Restaurant supply places have them.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forumdi...&order=desc

Thanks for the link URY

URY914 beat me to it, but this place will be your friend:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=3

There is almost too much info there.

This is a big one, my garage in KY is kinda low which requires us to do virtually all work on the VW Bus outside.

I also think climate control and a good ventilation system are good to have. If I were building one I would also put in a mounted air system with a separate, sound insulated room for a big-ass compressor. A good sound system and TV/internet.

You didnt say how much space you have, so here's the dream shop:

three"cars" length for ~45 feet Total inside dimension
so a Box 45'X45'X2 Stories

Side one is divided into an upper 2 room office space with full bathroom and a lower open shop space with built in kitchen and another full bath
2nd half is full height with roll up doors on both ends and an overhead bridge hoist.

So you have a regular size ~20 X 45 (900 sq feet) shop with built in kitchen cabinets etc but also another 900 sq feet of "high bay" just big enough to pull in a 45' RV into or move three 914 carcasses around without impinging on the lower shop space

But you also have the upstairs which can be office, bedroom, or even small shop space.
You could even wall off the lower shop from the hibay shop and make half the shop a 1800 sq ft apartment.

3-phase power would be nice

In MN - go with fully insulated + vapor barriers @ all walls & roof/ceiling, & full HVAC so you can work in the all 4 seasons. You'll want natural gas on the heat side (unless you go with a heat pump), so also have an NG outlet or two in the shop area too.

You'll want 12'-14' clear ceiling height for a lift with a car top & under - I like 4 post, but others prefer 2.

Get a good vapor barrier under the slap & seal the top with a good epoxy so you won't have moisture issues.

If you can get the height in your neighborhood & city, then try to work in a full attic with the floor rated for 100-200# psf (rather than just ceiling joists) for parts & supplies storage (hopefully stand-up or semi-stand-up ht. under the peak & 4-5' to each side if possible, so you don't have to crawl around. You should also get your air handling HVAC & even the air compressor up there, to save more usable floor space.

In addition to the typical 110/115/120/125 V 3-prong outlets, you'll also want at least 2 or more 220/230/240 V 30-50A outlets for a welder, air compressor, etc. which take a heavier draw, & you'll want some upstairs in the attic too for whatever goes up there.

If you can work it into your budget, a residential level automatic fire sprinkler system for both levels would be a good idea, since you'll have a lot of flammables & valuable parts & tools in there. The high end would be a new halon type system (I'm blanking on the newer human friendly version's name) to avoid the water damage, but they're pricey.

Also make sure that they do a thick enough & properly reinforced slab, with a good soil prep under it, so that it will support the extra loads of the cars on lifts, etc., as well as at the outside driveway & apron out front. Depending upon your site, you may even be able to work in a drive thru situation with front & rear doors.

Check on the Motorsports Classics & Classic Motorsports sister magazines' websites for their recent dream garage articles, which will have a lot of good ideas.

Good Luck!
Tom
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My shop is 33'x40' with 14' ceilings. Like my shop, i recommend putting the windows in at 8'ft from the floor this way you will have plenty of wall space. The windows are big and are for letting in light, not looking out of.

I also have three 8' double fluorescent lights on the side walls below the windows and the same in the centre of the shop. The lights along the wall are great for when your under the car or doing body work.

GLWB

Jon h.

4 post lifts are for storage. 2 posts are for working on cars.

If you have the acreage you should build bigger. 1,000 sq. ft. garages seem small to me.

If things go as planned I'll be building a shop next spring. I'm looking at building one at least 3000 sq. ft.

No matter what size you build you will probably fill it up.

I agree with a lot of the responses. I think a climate controlled building with a very efficient heating and air condition system would be at the top of the list. Make sure you give yourself plenty of room between lifts. Air hose connections and outlets everywhere and an isolated area for clean and/or precision work. Also don't overlook the outside, cameras and plenty light and parking along with ease of moving cars into the shop that are disabled. Good luck. I'd love to see the end result.

The garage that was the business that I sold this past December was 65ft by 70ft of clear floor space and a 14ft ceiling. It was originally built as a potato storage barn with 1ft thick framed, insulated walls and 16 inches of insulation in the ceiling. The concrete floor was 1ft thick which was a great flywheel for heating and cooling. Air conditioning was not an issue here in Vermont but heating sure is. I agree with plenty of electrical outlets. You will need 220 V for the compressor and welding machine. Get a two stage compressor. I had a two post lift which was great and a snap on scissors lift. Make sure that you do not have any floor drains. If you have a spill on the floor, you can clean it up. If it goes down the drain, you have an environmental disaster.

Charlie

Click to view attachment

Heat and A/C, yes sink, stainless steel work service, 110 and 220 outlets and I have a scissors lift in the floor works great and does not get in the way. Best, Mark

Kraft faced insulation is last century. Look at a product named Roxul. Easy to work with and no loose fibers that get everywhere. No staples, Pressure fit, no sag, no air leakage, does not promote mold growth or attract pests and you can cut it with a bread knife from the dollar store. I bit of a premium at the checkout counter but well worth it.

Was just going to mention a floor drain with water supply.

For washing the cars and wetting down the paint booth

Well,when it's -27F and blowing,a nice insulated concrete floor is comfortable to work on.A little forethought and planning makes for a modern shop,and less like a refrigerator.Heating with in-floor radiant tubes,is most efficient when burning natural or lpg,and,may be used as a heat soak storage medium.

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(Edit:08/12/16):
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/

You can pea into a bush out back, you can use a big fan, you can heat with all sorts of devices. One thing you can not do is build big enough, you will fill what ever space you build.

Put everything on wheels, to this day I still move stuff around depending on whats going in and out of the shop. It is nice to be able to pull the door down on your project when your done for the night.

I have a heated shop, never sprung for A/C, heat runs for 6-8 months out of the year, Radiant Floor heat, so nice to lay on a warm floor. I have it well insulated also with insulation under the slap as well, reflective, and I don't think foam does well between rock and concrete. I also planed for a two post lift. But really like my EZ car lift as I can move it around. Clear floor space is the key for me.

Don't forget about tunes

Don't forget about Fire Suppression, I have several extinguishers stationed all around the shop. Mounted to my welding carts, and tool boxes.

Don't forget about safety gear.

And map out a clean side of the shop and a dirty side. Clean at the back away from the doors, dirty by the doors, that way you can take a leaf blower and start at the back and blow the garage out towards the dirty crap. Also cover everything when not in use. As you get into bigger projects and more tools, think Mills and Lathes, it is nice to just uncover a tool, and start working. Not clean, fix, delayed, then get to work.

Put everything back in its place when done using it, keeps your mind like water. And never misplace a tool or part again. Also makes you more productive. I have a small cart I got in an auction that has three shelves its about 24" x 24" x 3' tall, and it use it while working on a project. Then when done, I take my tools back to their homes. I strive to do this with everything.

Also plan on lots of storage, for large and small items. If you plan to do car repair or restoration, a car taken apart takes a much larger area than a car assembled. Yeah I know that right, you would be amazed at how much space it takes. I have 50 or so tubs, that hold sections or parts of the car. Engine compartment minute the entire engine is in three tubs. Rear Trunk has a tub, Suspension is done by corners, and not everything is in a tub. The advantage is I pull a tub to the side I am working on, everything is in the tub except like trailing arms, and I can get to work. Wheel over my little cart, all the tools I use go onto it until the job is done or I switch sides. I'll more than likely use the sam tools on the other side.

Buy the best tools you can afford, and treat them with respect and kindness cleaning them as you would if they where plated in gold. They will last for ever.

YOU CAN NEVER HAVE ENOUGH TOOLS so plan ahead, I would rather have an empty drawer or two than run out of room, and have stuff sitting on the work bench, cluttering up space.

I store seldom used tools in bins by the jobs they do. So you will see all my concrete tools in a bin, if I am working on concrete project the bin goes along with me. Same thing goes for paint guns, A/C tools, electrical tools for the house etc.... I have a set of hand me down tools at my house for my wife, kids and myself to use. That way I don't need them to be in the workshop digging for a tool, when they can grab the backpack off the shelf, and they have all the tools they need for basic repairs.

If your storing things up high, a rolling scaffold is very nice to work off of. Takes some floor space, but I park it over the top of my spare engine and trans, when not in use. I also stack a few tubs on it for projects I am working on.

Besides a lift of some kind, a gantry crane can be really handy. The Harbor freight one is actually pretty nice. And it will save your back a lot of the times when moving larger objects.

Lots of power outlets on all walls, Quad outlets at each location is super nice, and don't cost much more to install.

Lighting, go LED 4Ft. tubes great lights, easy on the engird bills, can be retrofitted into cheap housing. Calculate this out and make lighting zones. As you get older you need more light, so plan ahead your future you will thank the past you.

Big Ass ceiling fans and lights - thats all I got to say.

don't forget about wheels and tire storage, my garage currently has 16 wheels for my 914, looking at adding a couple more for matching trailer. And my Jetta has 8 extra sets, though after this winter one set will go away.

Place to store an extra bottle of Argon or Argon/CO2 mix. You will always run out when the gas supplier is closed.

Vertical Parts Washer?

a 914-6

I would recommend that you build a workbench the length of one entire wall and install outlets every 24 inches along it.

If you are running a new electric service, a 220 box would be a good idea even though you may not use it right away, it will be good to have it.

If its humid during the summer, some type of AC is a must.

I saw the urinal on a previous post, but consider a small bathroom, especially if you are going to spend an extended amount of time there.

All great suggestions......I hope to incorporate as many of them as I can. The 914-6 may be a little beyond the budget though.

I have the spot picked out, talked to the county regarding set backs, permits and costs. So that part is underway.

Next question is, what type of building? there are so many types. pole building, stick built, steel truss, steel paneled corrugated building, Block and many more.

Any opinions on which Building type would be your pick?

One of the best things I've ever done for my shop is build my workbenches taller than average; I'm taller than average and it really helps my back. I also have one built for sitting (also built to my size).

My garage is 26' wide by 36' deep with an 8x12 bump out, 12' ceilings, 6" walls built on 16" centers with R-19 insulation, R-30 in the ceiling, 6" thick slab, an exterior door out the back, two 10' wide by 8' high doors (prefer wider double doors over a single door), and three 3'x6' windows.

I run a kerosene space heat in the winter, though our winter temps are typically above mid-20's at night. Summers are hot and humid, but temps typically remain in the 70's in the garage, and with a fan and dehumidifier it's decent.

I currently have 16 two-bulb fluorescent lights which isn't enough in my opinion, and I too am getting ready to mount lights lower for under the lift.

Our building codes don't allow floor drains in garages, but a sink with hot and cold water is allowed.

Agree on 220 service, I have two 50 amp outlets and panel with capacity to grow.

I passed on the expense of an epoxy floor.

I have OSB interior walls, prefer that or plywood over drywall - doesn't get damaged like soft drywall, and can put a nail or screw anywhere to hang items.

Shelving, cabinets, and work benches are a must.

But what is your budget? You can spend thousands alone on fancy garage cabinetry and thousands on flooring. But that money goes along way towards practical items such as a lift, inexpensive concrete sealer, and homemade shelving and benches...

Steel beams are expensive but will give you great flexibility. They will eliminate the need for supporting posts in the middle of the floor and give you many options for configuring your space.

theres no mention of size you`d like or budget you have, the size of the building will dictate the materials that will work best .JMO

MikeC

Size 32x 48

Sidewalls 13'

Budget 45,000.00

thats small enough to use engineered wood trusse`s with no center post`s ..and youll have attic space for storage in the future ..whats going in it?
MikeC.

Naw; this is better:

Click to view attachment

We all know "you gotta have goals"

Click to view attachment

another option along those lines that will also save some indoor space

The shop I built at home is 30 by 45 with a 12 foot ceiling. The roof structure is a storage truss which gives me a 10 foot wide by 45 foot storage area overhead. It is built on an insulated floating radiant slab. I used Roxul insulation which I am very happy with. I use it to store the projects as well as a work area. We have another area to park the daily drivers.

If I had to do it again, I would have a heated work area and an unheated storage area.

The floor length allows you to use it as a floor drain. Which is why I think they cam about in the first place- easy maintenance.

If you want 13' walls you have buy 14' stock and are left with a bunch of expensive kindling. Designing using 2' increments cuts down on waste. Sheathing goods typically are 4'x8'. Work with even numbers. Dependent on codes the framing requirements may dictate 6" stock. Here, unplaced concrete is really pricy. Do your material takeoff, price it out, you're going to be shocked!

Thanks for the pointers to all.

What I have currently got going on is folks
from different Co's coming out and
Putting together an all inclusive price "turn Key"
Top to bottom with a breakdown of each acvitiy.

To busy to do much sweat equity.

My buddy Rand had asked for Update and photos for the new workshop.
Not really much to show, but a few things to mention. I have found putting up a building is more than just putting up a building. The costs associated with updateing electrical service, providing the sanitary sewer statement of compliance, and the other requirements and infrastructural items required by the county/township before the building even goes up have left the wallet mostly tapped. I'm not big on financing, and am trying to pick away at it a little at a time. In the meantime I do have a old grainary which is small 12x 26 but is warm dry and works good for now. We will have to see, might have to bite the bullet and finance a portion come spring. Going to hunker down for now.

Edit -also took the Fam to see The Mouse in Florida for 10 days. OUCH! Can anyone relate. I know I could have paid for a heated slab for what it cost, but life happens.

Mickeys got the Money!

Your "buddy" Rand?

Yeah my buddy, trying to get him to drive up and bless the shed with some garage beers

Sorry gang, shouldn't have said anything. Oof. Fed the troll.

That's no way to talk to a buddy......buddy

And it's uff dah if your going to venture north you betcha!

Damn Rand. I think you should go. Let's all go to Minnesota! What's your address gunny?

We could do a work party to help build the shop / er, I mean shed. Or a GT ENGINE LID.

I'm as good a Carpenter as i am a cabinetmaker. It's all wood ya know. Post up some pics of what you have so far. We'll critique it for you.