I recently purchased a set of newly replated lugs from a member here and they're beautiful.....they'll compliment my perfect original alloys nicely. My question is.....should I grease the treads or apply anti-seize lubricant prior to installing? Also, is there a soft socket available for that size lug?

Bit like starting an oil thread so there maybe very different answers...I would just a little on the back of the nut tapers, avoids damage to the wheels as the bolts are steel.
I always use a little grease on my alloy wheel nuts and use a torque wrench to tighten.
Soft socket not required for steel lug bolts.
Lovely car by the way.

The soft sockets break. Easily. Use the oldschool approach of using a plastic bag under a standard socket to protect them.

FWSM requires small amount of moly paste on the ball seats.

I almost bought those. Soft lugs are out there. It couldn't hurt using one. I like to use a little anti-seize.

Never/ anti seize is not for this application because its steel on steel,it will alter the torque value ,alloy wheels need to be torqued to the correct value in this case and need to be greased or lubed with engine oil.
IMO many alloy wheels come loose due to improper torque.
Soft sockets are a marketing exercise ..little more than that,never used them on even alloy wheel nuts.

Controversial subject this!

But quoted directly from a Porsche Service Bulletin......

"If wheel nuts are lubricated with the wrong type of grease prior to installation or even installed dry, the spherical calottes of wheel nuts could seize in the countersunk holes of the rims.
The factory is using OPTIMOLY TA paste successfully at the present time.

This lubricant is available in 150gram tubes for Service (Porsche Part No. 000.043.020.00).

The tightening torque for wheel nuts is still 130 Nm."

Although this refers to Nuts, not bolts and these are alloy not steel, it does calm the fearmongering of using lubricants to mount wheels, if Porsche themselves recommend it, and is appropriate to any 914 with 5 stud hubs.



That said I did instigate a safety investigation into a well-respected aftermarket European Porsche parts manufacturer about 8 years ago. This meant getting TUV involved.
They started to sell Boxster wheel bolts made from Stainless Steel. This was done with all good intention and they looked real nice.
However when you look at the yield strength for stainless steel it should not be used in high tensile application fastenings.
The point they, and other manufacturers of stainless steel wheel bolts miss, is that you can quite safely make a deep threaded wheel nut from stainless steel, but NOT a bolt.
The bolt is subject to stretch forces, the nut is subject to compression and “thread pull”. Due to the physical properties of Stainless Steel and its yield, I very successfully and dramatically proved that the stainless wheel bolts were not fit/safe for purpose.
So how is this related to this post?
Well, in this test case, the stainless wheel bolt was installed dry and torqued to the Porsche recommended setting. The wrench reached the setting and “clicked” to indicate the correct torque had been achieved.
Test 2 which was the “real world” test. I argued that since this was an aftermarket part, it would be fair to say the purchaser would take out his OEM plated steel bolts and replace them with the stainless ones. As it was a Porsche practice and in most cases a habitual practice by a significant number of garages to lubricate wheel bolt threads, it was fair to conclude that lubricants would remain in the hubs and on the conical seats of the wheel from the old bolts.
In Test 2 we applied a small amount of Porsche lubricant to the thread and conical face before installing the Stainless bolts. Using the same torque wrench (set and un adjusted from test 1) we then tightened the bolts. This took more turns to achieve and gave a "spongy" feel at the wrench.
ALL bolts stretched, some by up to 9mm in length and “necked” just under the head (due to the yield characteristics of stainless) before reaching the torque setting and getting the “click” from the wrench. This would not be apparent to the installer as it couldn’t be seen.
2 bolts out of 20 in the sample set sheared before reaching the torque setting.
The lesson here is to always use OEM or TUV approved safety critical parts on your car.
Lubricants do affect torque, but this only becomes problematic if the materials used are not suitable/capable of being lubricated.
Don’t try and out-smart the industry.
Follow Manufacturers instructions.
Shiny trick stuff isn't always as good or safe as you may think.

I personally gave up on torquing wheel bolts/nuts to 100lbs without marring them, I'd rather know they are safe than pretty.

The chrome or black plastic caps are cheap.

Direct from the FWSM:

i always use anti seize on lug bolts/nuts and on the hubs. i have seen bmw rims gall so badly it takes a torch and sledgehammer to free the wheel after the lugs have been removed.