QUOTE(rosenfe @ Aug 14 2016, 08:37 PM)
on my 912e i am putting in new thermal by pass pipes and original muffler.do i need to put anything on gaskets to muffler heater box and copper o ring from bypass pipes to head?also how best to keep copper o rings in place in head while i attach and tighten bypass pipes.
If you are using the Bursch bypass pipes, stock heat exchanger and muffler, there are 3 points for gaskets.
1. Head to bypass pipe - These are the oval copper gaskets. #23
2. Bypass pipe to heat exchanger/header - This is an aluminum layered gasket with two ports and gasket #20 in pic. It comes in two styles, one in the pic and one with two holes. 3 Nut/bolts on this
3. Header to Muffler. This is also an aluminum layered gasket, and looks similar in shape to the #20, but is a bit different in shape. It is #12 in the pic. 3 Nut/bolts on this as well.
My original plan had this setup with a new Bursch Muffler and Bypass pipes with original headers. The flanges on my header pipes was pretty messed up and if I used it I was going to use some type of super high heat RTV on both sides of the heat exchanger flanges to ensure a tight seal.
I'm assuming you are installing this while in the car. I would smear a little copper anti seize on the copper gasket to keep it in place while you mount the pipe. You may also want to LIGHTLY run a flat file over the ends of the bypass pipes before hand to ensure they are flat, and some people heat the copper gaskets and then let cool. As for torque, I would go slowly ensuring the bi-pass pipe sits properly in the ports, all bolts snug, then I torqued mine to #20 and after all was installed, heat exchangers, then muffler, I torqued again to 22-24 of 'snug enough' you dont want to overtighten, but like me probably will ;-)
Also, while you do this try not to bend the alt bracket that bolts to the header/muffler bolt, this bracket breaks easily.